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Topic: ROM-Reader for Super Nintendo / Super Famicom Game Cartridges (Read 311950 times) previous topic - next topic


I've built this, but I'm getting nothing but I'm not getting anything read from the Serial.

Do you have any suggestions on how I'd debug this?

Image of setup lol: https://imgur.com/a/nqZB18a


Just to add to this, I tried reading from Serial using both a Python script and Powershell $port.readLine(). Both detect the port and listen, but never receive any data.

Here's the output from uploading the code onto my arduino (starts at line 24)


Isn't Cart_ROM_Reader.ino the original Michlk sketch for the Uno?

That's a throwback.


Yeah that's right, the original

I saw this post years ago, but only started buying parts half a year ago. They took awhile to ship from china to Canada lol


Okay just finished reading all 74 pages of this post. Amazing work! I feel silly now attempting the 2013 original schematic.

couple questions,

1) Does anyone have a schematic / guide for creating a SNES cartridge for writing to? I have one which was purchased a long time ago, but it may only work with the accompanied software which only runs on Windows XP.

2) Will Sanni's cart reader overheat? Let's say if you were flashing for 12 hours straight? (I know this isn't likely but I don't want to cause a fire if I forget to unplug it, or if support is added for playing a game directly on an emulator)
Side note: The above nearly happened to me using a Cart programmer purchased elsewhere. My dog noticed a smell from upstairs and I found my melted cart reader nearly setting the carpet on fire

3) Sorry this is somewhat unrelated, does anyone have some advice for de-soldering this 62 pin component? I've tried a few times now filling with solder and de soldering but it won't come off: https://imgur.com/a/lxRDrej
(This is the piece that melted when plugged in for too long, I'd like to salvage just the 62 pin connector)

I'm excited to build this once all the pieces come in. I doubt I can help at all with anything hardware - but I'm a programmer so hopefully I can contribute somehow.


1) The Cart Reader can write some Chinese SNES repros, some custom made repros and ofc the official Nintendo Power SF Memory and Satellaview flash cartridges.
So if I were you I would buy a SF Memory cartridge for ~$20 from Japan.

2) This cartridge reader is basically just a shield for a standard Arduino Mega and I never heard of an Arduino Mega overheating. There are people running 3D printers with an Arduino Mega so even hours of continuous work shouldn't be any problem.

3) If most of the hole is free of solder try wiggling each pin with tweezers until it comes free. Might have to heat it up again and hold it away from the edge of the hole if you can't break the solder connection by just wiggling.
Or get some desoldering braid and use that to wick away the rest of the solder.


I just finished up two adapters, one for FC and one for NES carts.
The PRGs dump fine, but CHR comes out as wrong CRC compared to NesCartDB. This happens on both NES and FC.

Any ideas what could be wrong?


Looks like I had some cold solder joints on the adapters, working fine now!


So I am purchasing the PCB using a different distributor, since JLCPCB has over $15 shipping for the cheapest option (to Canada), which is a lot of a $2 PCB. Anyways I got a message from the PCB company:

I also noticed the design is using 4 mil solder mask expansion, while our stated recommendation is to use no more than 2.0 mils. Anything larger increasingly risks exposing nearby copper should the mask shift up to the normally accepted tolerance of +/- 3.0 mils. Though in this case it seems there may be enough extra room in the design to safely accommodate up to that maximum shift, though I'd highly recommend verifying that on your side or simply reducing the expansion to 2.0 mils.
Here's an example of that current 4.0 mil solder mask expansion in red, showing it just about 3 mils from the nearby trace:


Anyone know if this matters? Can I use 2.0 mil solder mask?


That is a valid concern, I'll fix it asap, 2mil is better. Thanks for the feedback.  :)

Just inspected a PCB with a magnifying glass and I can see where 4mil could become an issue when there is both a shifted solder mask and a malformed trace.
In this case using too much solder could lead to a short circuit.

JLCPCB should ship for free if you choose green PCB color, or maybe that was only a time-limited offer.


Unless I am missing it, there doesn't seem to be instructions on dumping N64 ROMs. I was able to figure it out, but I was wondering if that could be added to the Wiki.


JLCPCB should ship for free if you choose green PCB color, or maybe that was only a time-limited offer.
It must have been limited. Or it's not available in Canada. Not a big deal, the one I found seems good


Any chance to update SA-1 or give me a tip of how to get SA-1 dump working?
Did everything there is.
-Programmed 12F629 with snescic-resync.hex
-470uF cap at VCC and GND near power switch
-Tried every jumper position for CLK0 and CLK1, none are working
-Used various 5V power inputs, not just USB but from phone charger, too.
-Reset/Cycled through various times.

Nothing seems to work.

The board is a SHVC-1L5B-20 if that matters.


I've modified the WonderSwan sketch to simplify the initialization process.  I also added some code to check the header to try to ensure that the read data is valid.

I haven't submitted the changes because I'd like to improve the initialization process.  The WS carts are finicky and sometimes refuse to initialize.

I'll eventually submit the changes but it might be some time.  If anyone is working with WS carts and wants to test the changes, then let me know.

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