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Topic: Can I control these 2 coolers via PWM??? (Read 4152 times) previous topic - next topic

last1left91

Hi all!
I have a question.
I have 2 12V DC FAN!The first one is a BRUSHLESS DC FAN OF 0.18A (2 wires:red and black) and the other one is a CMP-FAN23 FROM KONIG  0.11 A(3 wires :red,black and yellow).I have an Arduino Uno.
I want to control these coolers via computer(ARDUINO IDE-analogWrite).Is it possible? I remember you ;none of these coolers has a PWM wire.Still,is it possible to control these coolers via PWM(analogRead(0...255)?If yes,how can I do that...a scheme or something equivalent.Thanks in advance!

runaway_pancake

#1
Jun 22, 2013, 05:13 pm Last Edit: Jun 22, 2013, 05:16 pm by Runaway Pancake Reason: 1
How hard did you try to find an answer on your own?

Click Here!

> > > My own circuit attached.
"Who is like unto the beast? who is able to make war with him?"
When all else fails, check your wiring!

last1left91

Believe me,I looked everywhere but nothing seemed to work!I found a TO-220 based circuit! Thanks a lot,I hope it will work because I have nothing to do with electronics...especially when it comes to transistors ...is there any risks to fry arduino board?
Can I replace 2N3904 and 1N4001 with other ICs which has the same properties because I'm from Roumania and here we don't have these ICs.
Thanks again!

runaway_pancake

They are not "ICs", they are semiconductors - the 2N3904 is an NPN transistor and the 1N4001 is a diode.
Generally speaking, look for an NPN transistor (described as 'general purpose amplifier') with a collector current rating greater than the fan's rated current.
As for the diode, practically any rectifier diode will suffice.


...is there any risks to fry arduino board?


Only if you don't get the wiring right. 

Before you commit, get guidance from your friends here.
"Who is like unto the beast? who is able to make war with him?"
When all else fails, check your wiring!

last1left91

Hi, dear!! I came back to thank you for all your good advices...it works like charm...it works great...now I can get to work to program it....btw...I don't want to push it but..do you have any idea how can I program it to mantain around the set temperature....I mean...to make it work very fast till it approaches the setpoint and as he approaces more and more the setpoint temperature to decrease it's rpm until it goes into a point where he needs(the cooler) just to keep the temperature at that level...almost not functional...I think you got my point...
  I'VE ALSO LIKE TO EMPHASIZE....USE DARLINGTON TRANSISTOR AND YOU WILL BE VERY JOYFUL.... BTW...IS IT NORMAL TO EMIT A SOUND...? I TRIED BOTH COOLERS and it emits a sound...like a    howl .  I've used a 10k resistor in series with the pwm...i hope there's no problem...
Thanks again!!!

thebadtall

Hello, the squeaking sound comes from the pwm, you can eliminate that by using an electrolytic capacitor (470uf/16v would do the job)

If you would like a pure analogue - adjustable approach use this


and instead of this mosfet you can use almost all mosfets ie irf510 irf530 etc..... alos you can use a transistor instead of mosfet.

Especially if you use arduino only to control that function and nothing more, then better  go my way, and keep arduino for something more complicated :)
living on an island.....Oh boy, we're having fun
I wish I'd kept some of my old computers.

last1left91

I see...thanks for the advice with the electrolytic capacitor.
I need to control 2 coolers and also to activate an incandescent bulb for simulate a perturbation(heating). Is it possible to use only a 12V transformer to supply the voltages needed for all these 3 consumers? I mean,I could insert Power Supply + into + from the breadboard and connect the positive terminals from all consumers to the breadboard's VCC but what about the other consumer's GNDs ...should i also connect them to the transistor's DRAIN like the other ones? 
    Thanks again!!

thebadtall

Can you explain in detail what exactly you want to create?

Then, the transistor has a base and the mosfet has a gate (both function almost the same)

Before you connect the fans and lamp and any other devices , measure the total current draw, then compare to the power supply you own and if you have adequate power then proceed. Provide a schematic and let's check it.

I can't say how you will connect the 12v of breadboard since I haven't seen the layout, but in no case dont connect fans or other current drawing devices directly to 5v of arduino
living on an island.....Oh boy, we're having fun
I wish I'd kept some of my old computers.

last1left91

#8
Jul 09, 2013, 07:23 am Last Edit: Jul 09, 2013, 07:27 am by last1left91 Reason: 1
Hi guys...I need to eliminate that annoying squeaking sound generated by the PWM control.I purchased 2 electrolitic capacitors 470uf 16V one is bigger than the other one.The problem is I donna how to connect each one of them inside the circuit.Should I just get the proper polarization and place it in parallel with the consumer?
 Thanks in advance.
I also have a 24V 40W consumer(lighting bulb) which is powered with an ASUS PRO55SR laptop charger(transformer) .I want it to put on a relay and light the bulb when my system needs heating. Well, I have problems with interracting with the relay.The relay is a RELPOL( http://www.robofun.ro/kit-releu-diy?keyword=kit%20releu%20diy&category_id=0 ) one with a command of 5V and 24V DC maximum.
 Could you please help me out with a connection scheme.I also need a 14n001 diode i guess, I have one of those..as a transistor I saw there's using  BC547AGSE (BCE) .Actually i thought I could use that Relay KIT from the link.
I mean,I know there is also a scheme on that site but that is for controlling device with Arduino,which implies a Led or something less than or equal to 5V.Like I said I will need to turn ON/OFF a 24V dc LIGHTING BULB:)
Would it be ok if I use a TIP120(Darlington) instead?
 Thanks in advance...!

runaway_pancake

The sound is the result of the PWM frequency (approx 500Hz).
Capacitors will not change that.

To get rid of that you will have to change the timer sourcing the PWM for a frequency higher than human hearing.
playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet.
"Who is like unto the beast? who is able to make war with him?"
When all else fails, check your wiring!

last1left91

Hi,thanks for your intervention.
I used a condenser in parallel with the consummer and there's no more squeaking sound...using TIP120 scheme the current through cooler is smaller than in the case when I simply connect cooler direct to the 12V regulator?I mean the rpm in the second case is bigger than the first one?Or ...that 255 analog value is equal to 12V ?

runaway_pancake

The only place for a Darlington, these days, is in a museum.
Their excessive VCE robs the load of voltage, they are encumbrances.
Find a better quality transistor, a "general purpose amplifier" with an IC > 200mA, as I recommended earlier.

I think the capacitor in parallel with the motor is rounding the edges to some effect.
If you don't have that diode in place then the capacitor (being a polarised device) is getting some rough-handling for it.
"Who is like unto the beast? who is able to make war with him?"
When all else fails, check your wiring!

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