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Topic: Arduino Game & Watch (Read 27189 times) previous topic - next topic

fungus



I'm with fungus on this one...
These are just too inexpensive to ignore


Its not a one on one.
its a cople of hundred.

Or thousands.


If you're manufacturing something then sure, you design a custom PCB and use bare chips. You're not going to mess around with Pro Minis.

But ... I don't see why anybody would "hate" Pro Minis. They're perfect for hacking and building small gadgets and don't cost much more that a bare chip

(they probably work out much cheaper, if you factor in the cost of a piece of perf board and the time taken to solder the chip onto it).
Advanced Arduino

janost




I'm with fungus on this one...
These are just too inexpensive to ignore


Its not a one on one.
its a cople of hundred.

Or thousands.


If you're manufacturing something then sure, you design a custom PCB and use bare chips. You're not going to mess around with Pro Minis.

But ... I don't see why anybody would "hate" Pro Minis. They're perfect for hacking and building small gadgets and don't cost much more that a bare chip

(they probably work out much cheaper, if you factor in the cost of a piece of perf board and the time taken to solder the chip onto it).



I had to pay 9EUR + shipping for my Xino.
How much is a bare 328-chip?

janost

#32
Jan 04, 2014, 04:14 pm Last Edit: Jan 04, 2014, 04:23 pm by janost Reason: 1
Here is the PlayPad schematic.

Very simple.

mrburnette

Quote
I had to pay 9EUR + shipping for my Xino.
How much is a bare 328-chip?


In the U.S. in quantity of 25, I pay around $59 including shipping... $2,36 per uC or 1,74Euro for the Atmega328P-PU prime chips from Newark.

Scrapboard 328P-PU, crystal + caps with SD card and headers is all around $7
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-A-FLAT-duino/

However, I continue to be fondest of the the Pro Mini which is offered w/ free shipping in under $3 U.S each!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-Pro-Mini-atmega328-5V-16M-Replace-ATmega128-Arduino-Compatible-Nano-/310568454961

Ray

Not a recommendation for purchase!  
Link used only as an example of pricing; not a recommendation for vendor.
Shipping estimates will be greatly affected by Chinese New Year celebrations.

janost

#34
Jan 04, 2014, 04:49 pm Last Edit: Jan 04, 2014, 05:00 pm by janost Reason: 1
I know the prices in the US but we live in the EU.
And we get punished with tollfees if ordering from the US.

I did not vote to be a member of EU and it stinks.
It is easier for us to order from China than the US, strange hu?

However from Farnell in Europe the 1248P is 5 EUR each ($7) and the 328P is 3 EUR ($4)

That is in 1-5 pcs.

fungus


I had to pay 9EUR + shipping for my Xino.


??

I paid $2.95 for the last ones I bought.

I just looked and they've gone down to $2.88: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200957063666

They seem to be dumping the 'old' designs now and selling newer ones with extra holes for 6 pin ICSP/SPI connector, eg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131085833605

Advanced Arduino

janost



I had to pay 9EUR + shipping for my Xino.


??

I paid $2.95 for the last ones I bought.

I just looked and they've gone down to $2.88: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200957063666

They seem to be dumping the 'old' designs now and selling newer ones with extra holes for 6 pin ICSP/SPI connector, eg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131085833605




I probably got ripped off since it was a Swedish dealer.
But I needed it a the time and it lives inside one of my heatpumps (AC) now.

janost

The easiest thing is probably to develope the prototype and then have a chinees company build them.

janost

#38
Jan 04, 2014, 06:36 pm Last Edit: Jan 04, 2014, 06:48 pm by janost Reason: 1
In the schematics above the chip is just like an Arduino except without the FTDI.
Concider the chip pins just like any Arduino board edge connectors.

I just dont get why you like boards that just extend the chip pins to the edge of the board?

fungus, couldnt you just have soldered the wires straight to the legs of a 328 instead of the MiniPro?
You said yourself its the same pitch?

It doesnt even have an onboard FTDI?

Why the board?

I have 10pcs of 328 chips with the Adaboot bootloader preprogrammed.
I'll probably end up erasing the bootloader and use them as blanks.

Another ripoff.

janost

#39
Jan 04, 2014, 07:10 pm Last Edit: Jan 04, 2014, 07:47 pm by janost Reason: 1
It now has an ICSP connector.

It wont be there in the final version.
Its just for me to be able to develop on the board.

or you :)

janost

It will need some soldering before boot.

But when it runs it will be among the coolest ATmega platforms available.

fungus


I just dont get why you like boards that just extend the chip pins to the edge of the board?


That's what Arduinos are...


fungus, couldnt you just have soldered the wires straight to the legs of a 328 instead of the MiniPro?
You said yourself its the same pitch?

Why the board?


It has a 16MHz, crystal, it has decoupling capacitors, it has a reset button, it has some LEDs, it can run "BLINK"...you can have a working system much quicker then making one from a bare chip.

All you  need is to solder the six pin FTDI connector pins.


It doesnt even have an onboard FTDI?


Not a problem...

Advanced Arduino

mrburnette

#42
Jan 05, 2014, 12:47 am Last Edit: Jan 05, 2014, 12:49 am by mrburnette Reason: 1
Quote

Quote from: janost on Today at 12:36:07 pm
It doesnt even have an onboard FTDI?

Not a problem...


Once programmed, USB back to the PC for consumption can be very easily implemented...
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=195003.0

Ray

janost

#43
Jan 05, 2014, 12:46 pm Last Edit: Jan 05, 2014, 08:22 pm by janost Reason: 1
What is the actual range of the OSCCAL register?
The datasheet just specifies the range to 7.3 - 8.1MHz and recommend not to go outside that range.

What is the likely resulting clockfrequency from writing 0xFF to the OSCCAL register?

Can I count on somewhere around 16MHz?

I dont need any precision with only a display and SD-card on SPI.

fungus


What is the actual range of the OSCCAL register?
The datasheet just specifies the range to 7.3 - 8.1MHz and recommend not to go outside that range.


It actually says: "Calibration outside that range is not guaranteed"


What is the likely resulting clockfrequency from writing 0xFF to the OSCCAL register?


The oscillator might stop oscillating.


Can I count on somewhere around 16MHz?


No.
Advanced Arduino

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