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Topic: PIR sensor always HIGH (Read 28237 times) previous topic - next topic

reydan

Hi,

I'm trying to connect a PIR sensor to my Arduino Uno board. The sensor was purchased from amazon and looks a lot like HC-SR501 (uses a BIS0001 chip).
I followed this tutorial https://learn.adafruit.com/pir-passive-infrared-proximity-motion-sensor/using-a-pir   including the source code there.

The problem is I always have the input pin on HIGH. I tried adjusting the sensitivity but with no luck. I attached a picture of my setup.

The weird thing is, I think somehow the sensor works without the + and GND pins plugged in (just the output pin).  Sometimes it behaves weird, but most of the times it detects my palm.


teckel


Hi,

I'm trying to connect a PIR sensor to my Arduino Uno board. The sensor was purchased from amazon and looks a lot like HC-SR501 (uses a BIS0001 chip).
I followed this tutorial https://learn.adafruit.com/pir-passive-infrared-proximity-motion-sensor/using-a-pir   including the source code there.

The problem is I always have the input pin on HIGH. I tried adjusting the sensitivity but with no luck. I attached a picture of my setup.

The weird thing is, I think somehow the sensor works without the + and GND pins plugged in (just the output pin).  Sometimes it behaves weird, but most of the times it detects my palm.



PIR sensors are pinned two different ways (totally opposite).  I can't tell by your pictures if you have it pinned correctly.  Also, there's an added complexity because you added an interface.  Instead, plug the sensor into a solderless breadboard and wire it up that way.  This will remove a possible reason why it's not working.

I've spent countless hours working with PIR sensors.  They're VERY simple and work very well.  That's why I believe the problem has to do with how you're connecting it.  Or, it's possible you have a dead sensor (maybe from wiring it wrong at some point).  I have dozens of these sensors and have used them on all kinds of projects.  I've never had a dead one or one that failed.

Tim
My platforms Arduino, Teensy 3.2, Arduino Pro Mini, ATmega328
My libraries: NewPing, LCDBitmap, toneAC, toneAC2, NewTone, TimerFreeTone
My projects: https://dogblocker.com & https://baconorbeer.com
My beer: Great Lakes Brewing Co. Lake Erie Monster

reydan

Thanks for the answer.

My sensor looked a lot like the one in the tutorial so I just wired it up like there.  I don't use any interface.. it's plugged straight into arduino.
Also, this is the only way I've  wired it. In my pics I have
Red = 5V
Black = GND
Blue = Ouput

For your experience, what other wiring should I test?

teckel


Thanks for the answer.

My sensor looked a lot like the one in the tutorial so I just wired it up like there.  I don't use any interface.. it's plugged straight into arduino.
Also, this is the only way I've  wired it. In my pics I have
Red = 5V
Black = GND
Blue = Ouput

For your experience, what other wiring should I test?


You're using jumper wires soldered to a connector which is then plugged into the PIR sensor.  That can be a potential problem and one cannot see how things are attached due to it.  You could have a short in that connector.  Instead, just use a solderless breadboard and jumper wires.  Also, the order on the PIR sensors are opposite on 50% of them.  Some are GROUND, SIGNAL, POWER, and others are POWER, SIGNAL, GROUND.  I've never seen one that was POWER, GROUND, SIGNAL as you list.

Basically, throw away everything you have between the sensor and the Arduino.  Plug the PIR sensor directly into a breadboard, and use jumper wires to wire up each pin.  Then, detail the pin ORDER and the SIDE you're looking at on the sensor.  I fear you have it wired wrong or there's a short as it is now.  Which is why things are not working correctly for you.

Tim
My platforms Arduino, Teensy 3.2, Arduino Pro Mini, ATmega328
My libraries: NewPing, LCDBitmap, toneAC, toneAC2, NewTone, TimerFreeTone
My projects: https://dogblocker.com & https://baconorbeer.com
My beer: Great Lakes Brewing Co. Lake Erie Monster

reydan

I only used a connector because I didn't have a  female-male wire. I measured and there isn't any shorts between the pins.
I'll measure again tonight just to be sure.

The wiring order I used is GROUND, SIGNAL, POWER (black, blue, red) when you look at the back of the sensor and the pins are on the bottom.

Thanks,
Andrei

teckel


I only used a connector because I didn't have a  female-male wire. I measured and there isn't any shorts between the pins.
I'll measure again tonight just to be sure.

The wiring order I used is GROUND, SIGNAL, POWER (black, blue, red) when you look at the back of the sensor and the pins are on the bottom.

Thanks,
Andrei


Do you have a solderless breadboard?  That would be a better way to start to make sure you don't have somthing buggered up.

Tim
My platforms Arduino, Teensy 3.2, Arduino Pro Mini, ATmega328
My libraries: NewPing, LCDBitmap, toneAC, toneAC2, NewTone, TimerFreeTone
My projects: https://dogblocker.com & https://baconorbeer.com
My beer: Great Lakes Brewing Co. Lake Erie Monster

reydan

Yesssss... it works :)

I used a breadboard and salvaged a nicer 3 pin female connector from an old cpu cooler but it didn't change anything.
Then I switched the power and ground pins and now I get a nice 3.3V when movement is detected and 0 when there's not.

Thanks for the help


tom_silver

Hi, i have similar problem.
This is my PIR module: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-HC-SR501-Infrared-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-Raspberry-pi-/131563223769?hash=item1ea1c77ad9
Here is an image from bottom:

I always have HIGH from OUT pin.  Sends high while GND cable removed from pin.
I just switched VCC and GND, still got high.

It is very similar like this panel i found on Adafruit.com. Main difference is the jumper for change sensitivity from 15 to 30 feet.
On my panel, i have 3 connectors and H is connected to middle on pcb.

I have more than one from this product, each one is works like this.

Wawa

These sensors are very easy to use.

Turn sensitivity all the way counterclockwise, otherwise you have to sit VERY still for SEVEN minutes before it turns off.
Leave the sensitivity pot in the middle.

You can also test these sensors by connecting a LED between out and ground (anode to out).

DON'T swap VCC and ground. You might destroy the module.
Leo..

deepita

Hello,I am doing a project on motion sensing light with pir without using arduino. But my pir is not working.It gives high out put  when the ground pin is disconnected.Also, if the vcc pin is disconnected,the pir gives high out put for sometime and then stops working. What should I do?

Wawa

It gives high out put  when the ground pin is disconnected.
Why would you do that.

Also, if the vcc pin is disconnected,the pir gives high out put for sometime and then stops working.
Why would you do that.

What should I do?
Connect VCC and ground to a 5volt (or 5-12volt) source.
And a LED between output and ground (cathode to ground).
It could take upto 10 minutes for the LED to turn off after the last movement was detected.
Adjust with the "time" pot.

If that works, you can replace the LED for a transistor that can switch a relay or a light.
Leo..

deepita

Connect VCC and ground to a 5volt (or 5-12volt) source.
And a LED between output and ground (cathode to ground).
It could take upto 10 minutes for the LED to turn off after the last movement was detected.
Adjust with the "time" pot.


I have tried doing that but it doesn't work. The LEDs glow only under the conditions i mentioned earlier.

aosjack

How about the case that the output becomes high when you touch the wire? It looks so magic

nipon4666

To turn both switch counterclockwise and wait for a while worked for me.The PIR back to work again.

colinsoon

I just started playing with Arduino, and having the same problem. I had OUT high always.
After trying and trying, I found that some of the tutorials labeling the VCC and GND just opposite from the product, or the product label is just opposite from tutorials. I switched the VCC and GND, it worked just fine. A week of trying. Worth it.

My PIR was purchased from Amazon. The product itself has no VCC, OUT, and GND print.  That's why I wired it based on some tutorials. The correct one was from images.google.com.

Make a good search from Internet before any project. That is what I learned.

Hopefully it might be of somewhat help.

Colin

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