No problems, always happy to help. jbkuma is the man who really helped me in the beginning, he always has clear and concise information. Love those brewboards, they save so much time and if your hilt is long or wide, then they work perfectly.In the near future, I will post random build pics on my personal Facebook build page, so others can look at it. Nothing glamorous, but it's just there as extra reference for people.
Are you sure you followed the instructions and used MOSFETs? It seems from your description that you use bipolar transistors instead, which might require a different kind of driving scheme. Please swap your transistors for logic level nMOS transistors and you will be good to go.
Can you suggest me a model of MOSFET to be sure it will work?
Hello guys. Hoping for an advice from expierenced lightsaber builders on a PC tube for a blade. There are basically 2 types I can buy, regular one with flat surface inside(thats what i've been using so far) and there is another type with corrugated surface inside...claimed to better diffuse light. Keen to try it but wondering if anyone already used second type and knows for sure if it's better or worse in terms of a lightsaber blade.
Hello,I have bought a lightsaber blade with the faceted surface (lengthwise) rather than the traditional round ones we normally use and it was terrible. It just didn't diffuse the light correctly, resulting in a dim, dull blade.I've never seen corrugated before though. Can you post a link to the product you are asking about?
Has anyone tried the DFRobot Beetle? I picked one up for a thermal detonator I'm working on. At half the size of the Nano, it might work great in a lightsaber. It uses an atmega32u4, instead of the atmega328p.Links:https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1075.htmlhttps://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.php/Beetle_SKU:DFR0282
As a thank you to long-time DIYino and Arduino Saber supporters, I have made a free version of the STREAM system available for users of DIYino Prime V1 and Home-brew equivalents (Nano + DFPlayer + MPU6050). (Stardust V3 versions are coming soon.) Both RGB in-hilt LEDs and Pixel blade versions are available to try. This is a work-in-progress, but has passed alpha testing.You can download for free here:https://github.com/JakeS0ft/STREAM/tree/Version1.5_WIPPresently all features are enabled and working except multi-font support. A free sound font and all the files you'll need for your SD card are part of the download (see SDCard directory). A special version of my sound font converter tool is also included in the download. This tool can convert any Plecter font to STREAM format. (See SoundConverter directory.) The sound font converter tool's presets are already set to what STREAM expects (correct number of swings, clashes, etc.), so you should not have to touch them. Just select your Plecter font folder, a destination folder to put the converted files, and then convert. Easy!Note to Mac users: All development and testing was done on Windows 10. The GUI is java-based so in theory it should work on Mac, however the included firmware loader will probably not work. For now Windows 10 is the only officially supported operating system.
But as soon as I power the wt588-u with the same battery as the rest of the circuit, a lot of noise starts to appear on the readings of the adxl335, continuously triggering false swings and clashes, even if the sensor is perfectly still.Has any of you experienced anything similar and do you guys have any suggestion on how to get stable readings from the sensor?