The code is actually a little more complicated than that. I did get clash detection to work, but it was so temperamental I got sick of working on it and just stuck with the clash sensor. You see, sometimes a hard hard swing would trigger a clash. I have seen this happen in YouTube videos of the commercial sound boards, so I know it must be a common drawback of using the accelerometer as a clash detector. I really hate that; it bugs me so much when I see it. This false-triggering never seems to happen with the clash sensor, so I'm still using that for now. Plus, as you know, the code is so easy with the clash sensor. I won't rant here, but the accelerometer part of the code took me way too long to get working right and I still think it could be better. Far be it from me to discourage anyone from trying new things, but know what you're in for. As this thread demonstrates, I'm pretty happy to help out others develop their code, but I'd rather stay out of giving advice on the accelerometer motion detection. Here's hoping someone else reads this thread and can offer a better solution.Your 3D printed parts look really good. I like your tie-fighter sled. I've got to try stacking WT588D on top of the Arduino board for shorter hilts. Did you solder directly to the WT588D pins, or use some kind of socket? How to you route your wires from your Arduino board to the sound module?
This one is a heads up for anyone wanting to use an amp with the WT.Here's a source for some super tiny 3w mono amplifier modules:http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7206812763.html?orderId=71837755517375I've ordered some to play with so will report back once they've arrived.
Looks promising. When you are done experimenting, maybe you can post up how it is supposed to be wired. I can't find a datasheet for this thing anywhere.
Yeh, it's probably the most obscure product I've encountered. I emailed the manufacturer for more info but haven't heard back yet.On a plus side, I've finally manage to decipher the mostly missing silk screen on this pic of the underside:
I used a PAM8403 since the PAM8302 is not available locally from where I'm from. As per WT588D application notes you need to connect 1.2k and a 104 capacitor to ground between the WT588 DAC pin (PIN 2 on 16P module) and your amplifier's input.If using an amplifier we need to set the option in WT588D programmer to use the DAC output instead of PWM.
Now that's useful. Thanks. Maybe I'll pick one up myself after I get my Mk. IV system vetted. I see inputs for Rin and Lin. I wonder if those should be shorted together for our purposes or if one should just be left unwired.
Do you need to set it to DAC mode? the amp won't take the PWM?i am waiting for this, and it appears that it can take audio direct. PWM.http://www.ebay.com/itm/331652536370?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I've been pondering that myself, what throws things is the fact there's only one output channel. I'm beginning to think it can mix the two inputs to make a mono out so it might not matter whether we use Lin, Rin or both.
If it can mix two channels into one then it might make for some interesting possibilities, like using two WT588d sound modules at the same time to play two sounds simultaneously through a common speaker.
Indeed, one on constant hum, the other playing effects... Hmmmm... The possibilities are endless.