Wow great timing Jakesoft! i have been reading about putting in resistors and how to figuring outthe Ohms for them. I understand that now.But you use the Mosfets to control the RGB LEDs. So the Mosfet is like the resistor, limiting the voltage, but allowing the dimming of the LED's through the Arduino coding.I am planning on using this RGB star: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-3W-RGB-LED-3-CHIP-6-Pin-Bead-Lamp-LED-Star-Light-/121149855858?hash=item1c35181872:g:xOgAAOxyYSJR8iHfWith these specs:Forward Voltage VF (V) : red (min 1.9, typ 2.2, max 3.1),Green/Blue (min 2.8, typ 3.5, max 4.0)DC Forward Current (mA) : red 385 ,Green/Blue 350Average Forward Current (mA) : red 350, Green/Blue 350People are using the Luxeon, and I see them saying 700 to 1,000 mah. So is that the total mahcombined from the 3 LED's Or are the Luxeons more powerful? http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/luxeon-rebel-endor-star-rgb-high-power-led voltage Min TYP MAXGreen LXML-PM01 2.55 2.90 3.51 -2.0 to -4.0 10Blue LXML-PB01 2.55 3.03 3.51 -2.0 to -4.0 10Red LXML-PD01 2.31 2.90 3.51 -2.0 to -4.0 12Red LXM2-PD01 1.80 2.10 2.80 -2.0 to -4.0 8So I guess they are comparable, and the Mosfets you specified above will work fine?Sorry for the basic electronic questions, I understand the coding better as I havedone BASIC programming. I have found some nice links today that explained it well for resistors:http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/48522/what-resistor-to-use-with-this-rgb-ledhttp://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14081-Tutorial-Calculating-Resistor-ValuesThanks I'm goin to play with the hotlinks on the parts list now ;-)>
The Luxeons are more high powered than many of the other off-the-shelf brands. Their website provides tons of information regarding their various LEDs. For the triple LED setup, check these: http://www.luxeonstar.com/sinkpad-20mm-tristar-leds
Yikes!!! Thats out of my price range!!! I need the 23 dollars for a cheapo ESD solder gun!!
USD?neither require connectors. one off the shelf mini usb cable works. I wonder if you could fuse the 2 ports.....i have the Nano and WT module on a stack the USBs are right next to each other, you just pull it out the chassis, plug in the USB for arduino, and if you need to make a change to the WT, stick it in the other hole. It's all SORTS of fun. pull it out, put it back,.. repeat. (that part you laugh at Canobi) What is the goal with one port? Are you trying to seal the hilt? Make an un-tinkerable sellable thing-a-maroo? I like my hilt open-able. Swapping batts is better than charging IME.
That's fine. I can shuffle the pins around somewhat without much effort. There are just a few limitations that have to be adhered to:1) The 4 LEDs must be on PWM capable pins (they have little white circles around them on the silk screen in the picture I posted)2) The X, Y, and Z accelerometer inputs must go to analog inputs (A1, A2, etc.). 3) Clash sensor must be in pin 2.If you make the PCB just ignore the AXDL335 VDD and VCC pins on the arduino, that's fine; my software will still work if it's powered more directly by a 3.3V power rail. If the accelerometer pins are left as is, you could just map the X, Y, and Z inputs to the module and ignore the ones I'm using as power pins, don't give them a trace at all. That way the module could either be piggy-backed on the arduino or use your board's mapping. It also opens the door to making a shorter, simpler version of your PCB with no mapping for the accelerometer pins at all, assuming it would be piggybacked. The accent LED is for lighted switches or indicator lights. In my videos, that is the output that is controlling the blinking of the LED in the ring switches that I use. It's an optional indicator light.
Thanks for the heads up on the PWM markings and pin designations, forgot they were fixed position.I'm always looking for ways to make my boards smaller and Bill's genius stack gave me an idea (thanks Bill ). I've had a play with some strip board and various headers to find a workable arrangement. I hate making circuits with strip board but I do use it like lego for working out physical dimentions and arrangements. Size wise, it would fit hilts with a minimum ID of 28mm if the headers are used in the regular fashion. However, it would be possible to lower the depth by modifying some of the male headers mid assembly and mounting one or two modules flush to the board (the pro mini and WT can both do this as there's no surface mount components on the flip side of them).
As to the layout I'm reworking now, I've used the Spectrum as the template as it supperts upto 6 LEDs. Here's what the pin list looks like:2= Clash sensor3= NFET gate1 (FoC LED)5= NFET gate26= NFET gate37= PWR button8= AUX button9= NFET gate410= Accent LED 111= Accent LED 212= BUSY13= SCKA0= XA1= YA2= Z
As it didn't seem likely that anyone would want to change the white LED for a different colour, I've opted to include an SMT resistor on the PCB for 1,2 and 3w setups and resurved output channel 1 (gate 1) exclusively for the FoC function since the LEDs Vf and power ratings will be a fixed point.
I meant USB port (micro one...) And yeah, that thing with in and out is fun in another context, but wrt electronics it could be done better. I also thought about simply wiring the signals together and let the modules sort out what message is for whom, but never got around to try it.As to enclosed saber: is there something like that? I mean, all custom saber need access to the inside. What I have in in-hilt charging for most of my sabers, comfortable to charge and the rechargable 3.7V batteries are better in terms of room/capacity as AAA/AA. Still I have to admit that I came to hate the recharge port and now looking for alternatives...But looking at the most popular saber building sites, in-hilt charging is the preferred way, not battery swap.@jshaw: wow, that is a good find! I will sure look into that module. I'm curious if the charging curve fits those required by mainstream 3.7V batteries.
Has anyone tried to fabricate their own hilts? If so, does anyone know the threading that MHS uses? and lastly...how do you ensure that the "face" of one part always matches the "face" of the other part? I have a 3D printer and am trying to make pieces that line up correctly when screwed together.
Do I still need to use a vibration sensor to detect clashes, or could I have the adxl345 handle both the clash, and swing detection?
I'm planning to print my own hilts in either carbon or steel PLA. From what I've read, with sufficient fill % they should be very durable. the standard PLA i've printed out in test is pretty tough too, but I haven't stuck my blade inside to test impact (that comes later ). What I am wondering is how to guarantee that the faces of my 3d print match up because I want to make some cool designs. I too am frustrated how the TCSS parts can't align either. It ruined my fiance's saber that I made for her because parts didn't match up and those spacing rings they sell are a joke, they too easily get loose when you're tightening and look horrible.