try PWM with mosfet with a buck booster? or just direct off hot DC with resistors or a linear regulator?from what i understand from buck step/up down,. they push power at a frequency. they talk about ripple, and what not in their cut sheets. i am now savoy in PWM and arduino and LEDs.. yet if I put a mosfet tween the buck and the LED,.. no dice. i can use the mosfet tween the v+ and the buck to turn it on and off. i can use the mosfet with pwm direct to the 3.7v batt with effect. But not with the buck step down. grrrrr. anyone have a story on that?
So then the voltage is controlled through the PWM pins, and the voltage controls in the Arduino programming? With the Mosfets. I'm guessing.
Well don't quote me as Im really newb, but from what I read the buckboosters are for single color LED's.At least that is what I have read in my researching of all this, when I found out I didn't need one i was likephew cause they aint cheap. I was thinking one for each LED, 3 of them, OW dollas!
Awesome. Did you have to use DAC on the WT, or were you able to use the differential PWM outputs?
I had to use the DAC on the WT.
I put the 10k gate resistors on as a precaution but if they're not essential then I'll ditch those as well it'll help to simplify hand soldering.
Someone say cake? Shame the routing is off but at least I know they come out ok.
I would definitely implement that precaution. Arduino PWM capable drivers only have pull-ups, but for low-sides we use n-MOS. If the resistors are not there, as soon as you do not explicitly program L/H (or PWM) levels, the gates start to float.
Why it's bad? For one I do not know how the Arduino works when updating the code. Say you program your drivers for low level no keep the MOSFETs calm. Then you start uploading your new code (happens quite often when debugging), and you see the dancing lights on your saber.
Technically, no you don't need it, but the code is somewhat tricky to get working right. I'd recommend you stick with using the clash sensor if you are new because it's much easier to code for. You can always rework it later if you get good enough to detect clashes with your adxl345. Best of luck to you.
Yeah, I'd still go with what I said before. Leave the traces in but it's not a big deal if you don't put the resistors there. My code is tight about ensuring outputs are low when they are supposed to be, but having the resistors there allows you to be more sloppy with your code. I'm a software guy, so I'm always going to look for the software solution. Others my have different inclinations. I'm pretty sure that at least on the Pro-mini, the outputs all go low during programming. At least, I notice that all of my LEDs I have wired to outputs will turn off during SW upload when working on my breadboard. I never see the "dancing lights" because I put my kill key in when doing in-hilt uploads to my MCU anyway.
Not to worry, the board stands at 24.42mm which accommodates many different routing options so there's actually no need to make it any wider.
Just wondering about this... How high is the board ending up after mounting components? If it's too high, it won't fit in a 1" ID. Leaving ~1mm clearance doesn't seem like enough.What are the dimensions of the Arduino being used?