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destructables

I've got a spare 16-pin that I'm never gonna be able to use if anyone wants to risk test it.

destructables

Here's the LED chip I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670227296?

It says 12w RGBw and gives the die voltages as: Red 2.25~2.6V, Green 3.3~3.9V, Blue 3.1~3.7V, White 3.1~3.7V
I'm assuming that would mean I'd need the following resistors (going off fully charged 8.4v):
Red: 5 ohm 3 watt
Green, Blue, and White (each): 4 ohm 5 watt

Is that... anywhere close to right? Apologies for all the questions. I'm trying not to strugglebus on all this electrical stuff.

Canobi

Values are good but if the white is for FoC, you should be able to get away with a 2~3w resistor as its only momentary.

destructables

Values are good but if the white is for FoC, you should be able to get away with a 2~3w resistor as its only momentary.
Awesome! Thank you, Canobi!

Canobi

It's just occured to me that it should be possible to know the WT's memory Vf by measuring the voltage provided to that pin by the programmer board. I'm not near my meter right now but I'll check and get back with the results tomorrow, saves the risk in killing one finding out the hard way.

If someone does happen to have both on hand, ground can be accessed via the button solder joints underneath the programmer board.

JakeSoft

It's just occured to me that it should be possible to know the WT's memory Vf by measuring the voltage provided to that pin by the programmer board. I'm not near my meter right now but I'll check and get back with the results tomorrow, saves the risk in killing one finding out the hard way.

If someone does happen to have both on hand, ground can be accessed via the button solder joints underneath the programmer board.
That's a good idea. I'm interested in what you'll find.

Canobi


Protonerd

Thanks for the link. This guy seems to have all kinds of goodies for sale. :)

I wonder how much flash memory the module actually has. The product description says it can support between 2M and 16M but it doesn't actually say how much is on the one being sold. 2M might be just enough for one font at a low quality sample rate, but 16M would give you breathing room for perhaps 2 or more at a high sample rate. The later being preferable, of course.
I also prudently bought one myself and tested. It has 8M flash. Well, this is not tremendous, barely enough for 1 full sized sound font with hum-extension. With 16M it would be better I guess, and this also would give some motivation to try to reduce hum-extension and put some more effort into hum-relaunch.

On the very positive side this module is smaller than the SD-card version AND worked with my WIN10 first time right. Plug in, copy the files, attach to Arduino the same way as the SD-version, and voila it works (I have a simple sketch which just plays the sounds one after the other in the same order they are present on the whatever-is-used-to-store-them media). Actually - I was caught unprepared - it worked without any modification of the code...I though that I need to specify to the chipset whether it should play from SD or Flash, but it can actually device on its own (the WT5001 could not, that is why I mention).

I need to check whether the chipset (YX5200-24SS) supports greater flash sizes than 16M. Nevertheless I'm very much inclined towards swapping the SD-card for a Flash for the next board design. The thing to figure out is how to program the Arduino AND connect to the Flash chip using the same USB plug.

JakeSoft

Here's the results:


Ah, so more or less 3.3V that we thought all along.

I never did find that diagram where I got the idea in the first place. The data sheet I have does show a diagram where VCC is being powered by 5 volts, but it's being dropped with a diode. They don't bother to tell you any properties of the diode, though. They just call it "D1". Gee, thanks. :-/

JakeSoft

#819
Apr 28, 2016, 12:25 am Last Edit: Apr 28, 2016, 12:25 am by JakeSoft
I need to check whether the chipset (YX5200-24SS) supports greater flash sizes than 16M. Nevertheless I'm very much inclined towards swapping the SD-card for a Flash for the next board design. The thing to figure out is how to program the Arduino AND connect to the Flash chip using the same USB plug.
I got one too, but it's been sitting on my desk for a few weeks. I haven't got around to testing it out yet (been working on playing with the ATTiny chips). I'm please to hear that available code will work with them. I was also able to direct connect with USB and upload a file with no fuss on Windows 7. So know at least that much works.

Even if you can't get the one-USB concept to work, two micro USB ports side by side should still be smaller than that SD card and free up some real estate on your next gen board.


billpealer

#820
Apr 28, 2016, 02:30 pm Last Edit: Apr 29, 2016, 04:01 am by billpealer
No problem. Good luck.

Side note: I've been reading the spec sheet for the WT588D 16-pin version again. I can't seem to find where it specified that VCC had to be 3.3 volts. I thought I saw it in an application diagram somewhere, but now I don't see it. I wonder if the VCC input is 5 volt tolerant just like all of the other pins. If so, then it might be possible to power the 16-pin version with either pure 5 volt or pure 3.3V configurations instead of needing both levels for maximum loudness.

Has anyone tried putting 5V to both the VCC and VDD pins on the sound module? That would make things a lot nicer not needing a separate 3.3V supply anywhere in the system.
LOL. We talked about it last year, and your experience was that you needed 3.3 for the VCC and 5v for the VDD .  No where in any documentation can I find that you need to run 3.3V at all to the VCC.  In 3 different PDFs it says the same thing about the VCC pin..  nothing.  only the VDD pin is rated for Vin and that is 2.8v-5.5v.  Now that being said, it does show 3.3v to the vcc pin IN ALL the wiring diagram examples.  I can only assume that is an example scenario,. not meant to be limited to that specific voltage.  It is however, limited to the voltage of the spec'ed tolerance, that is 2.8-5.5v.    We literally had this same conversation lat October.  you stated that your actual testing proved you, in fact, needed 2 independent voltages. I was like,
"that is messed up" and you were like,. "yeah but what evs, it is what it is"  the WT588-U usb big daddy does not have this glitch.  5v all day!  I cant say i've tested your 3.3v or bust claim. i dont use the small WTs.  The programmer is an uber hassle and I am in no way bulk loading 25+ WT modules. the cons far out weigh the pros for a small, "make a couple sabers", hobby builder, and novice arduino programmer, like myself.

Has anyone posted links to a good sound library yet?  i have the sounds i have always used,.  they work.  i would like 2-3 different swing sounds with some longer Doppler.  the 3 i have are OK at best.

billpealer

#821
Apr 28, 2016, 05:23 pm Last Edit: Apr 28, 2016, 05:28 pm by billpealer
Yes, I tried with this code, but... when i record the sound 5 (0 to 4) in the module WT588D-U (28P), after to ejecute the first time all sounds, there is a shift of sounds.

The number 0 ceases to be 0 and became 4.
Number 1 ceases to be 1 and became 1.
Number 2 ceases to be 2 and 3 became.
-
-
-
-
Number 5 ceases to be 5 became the 0.

Is there any solution for this?.

P/D: sorry for my bad english, but I am Spanish.
Hey man, did you sort this out?

I think you need to go back to your WT programmer and make sure your WT playlists are what they are,.  The WT playlists number IS the Arduino command code number.  Are you triggering the WT yet with your nano?  I can send you some basic code to trigger your WT.  if you are using the WT code pasted in the above post,    you will need a command like this somewhere after an input trigger,..

//switch code or button code, or ADXL code that you know works because you tested it with some LEDs first
// if you don't know how to test or check some input code with an LED, just ask,.  if no one else here will brew you up a test cycle, i can.

WT588D_Send1(0);
delay(100);


Some button test code for the WT-  if you trigger your WT with accelerators you'll have to change the code.  but this is to just test the playback of the WT.  I think this code will work.

Code: [Select]

#define WT588D_SDA 9 // WT Module pin "P03" or pin # 10,  arduino pin 9
const int button = 3;     // the number of the  push button pin
byte file_count = 1;
int buttonState = 0;

void setup() {
  // initialize the push button pin as an input:
  pinMode(button, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(WT588D_SDA, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(button, HIGH);
}

void loop() {
  // read the state of the pushbutton value:
  buttonState = digitalRead(button);

  // check if the pushbutton is pressed and released.
  if (buttonState == HIGH && buttonState == LOW) {
    delay(5);
  } else {
    // the button was pressed and released play sound 0
    WT588D_Command(0);
    delay(100);
  }
}
void WT588D_Command(byte addr) {
    digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, LOW);
    delay(5);

    for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++)  {
        digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, HIGH);
        if(bitRead(addr, i)) {
            delayMicroseconds(600);
            digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, LOW);
            delayMicroseconds(200);
        } else {
            delayMicroseconds(200);
            digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, LOW);
            delayMicroseconds(600);
        }
    }

    digitalWrite(WT588D_SDA, HIGH);
    delay(100);
}//end WT588D_Command



MrLaTtEa

I got one too, but it's been sitting on my desk for a few weeks. I haven't got around to testing it out yet (been working on playing with the ATTiny chips). I'm please to hear that available code will work with them. I was also able to direct connect with USB and upload a file with no fuss on Windows 7. So know at least that much works.

Even if you can't get the one-USB concept to work, two micro USB ports side by side should still be smaller than that SD card and free up some real estate on your next gen board.


Idk if I'm just over looking it up on here but I cannot find anything about your mm IV  schematics with adding the ADXL335.  I'm highly interested in that design but I am not good at designing whatsoever and I was wondering how would I go about finding the schematics to build this particular board.. I'm also interested in your ATTiny chip set

JakeSoft

Idk if I'm just over looking it up on here but I cannot find anything about your mm IV  schematics with adding the ADXL335.  I'm highly interested in that design but I am not good at designing whatsoever and I was wondering how would I go about finding the schematics to build this particular board.. I'm also interested in your ATTiny chip set
You aren't missing anything; I never posted the Mk. IV schematics. Not much info on the ATTiny setup yet either as I just started playing with them myself.

MrLaTtEa

You aren't missing anything; I never posted the Mk. IV schematics. Not much info on the ATTiny setup yet either as I just started playing with them myself.
oh okay thank you for the confirmation lol. I'm assuming it's basically like the original one except with the one new  sensor?

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