oh okay thank you for the confirmation lol. I'm assuming it's basically like the original one except with the one new sensor?
Yes, the Mk. IV is very similar to the Mk. II wiring-wise, just with the ADXL335 X,Y,Z outputs wired to analog inputs on the Pro Mini or Nano.
I also prudently bought one myself and tested. It has 8M flash. Well, this is not tremendous, barely enough for 1 full sized sound font with hum-extension. With 16M it would be better I guess, and this also would give some motivation to try to reduce hum-extension and put some more effort into hum-relaunch.On the very positive side this module is smaller than the SD-card version AND worked with my WIN10 first time right. Plug in, copy the files, attach to Arduino the same way as the SD-version, and voila it works (I have a simple sketch which just plays the sounds one after the other in the same order they are present on the whatever-is-used-to-store-them media). Actually - I was caught unprepared - it worked without any modification of the code...I though that I need to specify to the chipset whether it should play from SD or Flash, but it can actually device on its own (the WT5001 could not, that is why I mention).
okay so now instead of it being one switch does the ADXL335 XY and Z go wired into one port on pro mini,or multiple ports?
And is the coding been modified to use this sensor?
I'm really new to this whole experience and I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
My daughter six birthday is coming up and she's been dying to build a light saber together. I'm trying to find the most affordable way to make this build and to make it look and feel higher quality than just grabbing LEDs and plastic Pipe from Home Depot.
Man its really confusing, there were like 8 versions before the one that is linked to. I am using theV7 when the author put in the code for color selection, that one was perfect for me. Then they went to to version you have to put ahh what is that program, JAVA on, well I use win98so who knows if that older version they stopped supporting would work with the newer type uploadand Language. The code looks very different in the current version, I am glad I saved every version 1-8 of theolder one!!!
Actually now, making the handle is gonna be hard. All the parts are sold out at the Custom Saber shop.I was gonna get an adapter and use a sink tube, but think I might just use Iron Pipe and fittings lol!Sink tube might be possible, but I will have to find a metal collar to hold the blade and I can thread.Think regular smooth 1" pipe fits inside the 1.25 kitchen sink. Anyone who knows how to fit holder andpipe and light together chime in please!
Hi, all. I used an Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V and a WT588d to create a custom sound board and LED controller for my lightsaber. I love this little board. Special thanks to SugarBombs for sharing his working code for the WT588d module! http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=227435.0 That really saved me some trouble.Here are video and pics. Core IC components: Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V, WT588d sound module, some small MOSFETs, and a 5V regulator.Components mounted on some perf-board and inside the hilt. And here is a video of it working:http://youtu.be/3PacAFmnF_8Update 1-29-2016:If you are interested in building your own, please read this thread in its entirety before posting questions. You will find that it is a trove of useful information. Most common questions have already been answered.
Think regular smooth 1" pipe fits inside the 1.25 kitchen sink. Anyone who knows how to fit holder andpipe and light together chime in please!
Hi there,I'm new to this thread, but very impressed with progress shown. I'm trying to tag along, and have bought a WT588U-32 sound card with the USB uploader. However, when trying to upload the sound fonts the USB port fails to connect.The card apparently has a WT55U02 USB uploader chip but Windows reports "it is most up-to-date" and I can't find an alternative driver anywhere.Has anyone else encountered this issue? I'm on Windows 10 Pro, 64-bit.R.
Here is my latest saber project. It is not an Arduino( I just robbed some parts from a store bought saber) but, the basic hilt design should work. I used a 1.25" sink drain and soldered a 1.125" metal plug in the end. I made a module to hold the electronics out of 1" and 3/4" PVC. I will be drilling and tapping a hole to hold the emitter shroud and blade. I am waiting on some molding supplies so I can cast the grips and switch area. Hope this helps and feel free to ask me questions.