also if anybody would like to try the 3aaa batterie holder i found them on am azon for under 5 bucks and there are 2 colours black or white.
The battery conversation is really interesting to me, and I've had a gut feel that cell phone style Li-On batteries are the way to go in sabers since I started reading forums. I got in my RB/B/CW Tri-Rebel in yesterday and have the two blue LEDs on w/ the white for FoC, and running them from a 3.3V Arduino Pro Mini hooked up to a 3.7V Li-On battery, they are bright! I haven't pulled out the tools to measure their voltage and amperage, but my intuition says they are about where I want them to be. Now if only my Graflex blade holder would show up...For people looking for more lightsaber arduino code, these two links have some useful code, although they use different sound modules from what this thread discusses:https://github.com/alextwin007/LightSaber http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=22838.0
2 phone calls to my best bud electrical engineer and genius,.. YOU DONT NEED AND SHOULDN'T USE A RESISTOR FOR 3W LEDS if the V+ of the BATT IS LESS THAN 10% OVER THE VF of the LED. There is a 6 page thread on custom saber shop of people who can;t figure out why their 1 ohm 5 watt resistors are only yielding 450m. so of course the custom saber guys want to sell the buck pucks.the reason for only 400-500ma when using a resistor,.. The internal resistance of the battery is more than enough to drop the V by 10%. MY MAN PJ, WAS RIGHT.
That guy had some good code, but it is only to run the "Joe Jedi" sound card. and uses a TCSS PWM LED driver to do the color mixing.. (What I assume Jake is doin' ") I literally knew nothing about C, arduino, or Sound Modules before i started. and this thread and a few kind people, took me all the way to where i am,..
I just bought a 3d printer and i am going to make chassis that hold the stacked nano/WT sound module and you can F using PCB boards,.. just wire the pins direct. I have 3 more sabers in the works,..
besides the custom saber shop any ideas as to where i can get a clash sensor or 2 they are currently out.
you can try here:https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=vibration+sensor&b=1
Are you saying I used a TCSS PWM LED driver for the color mixing? No way, man! It's straight-up Arduino to my MOSFETs for direct control of the LEDs! I put the positive sides for all the LEDs though a V regulator so I have predictable voltage even as the battery drains. That keeps the colors true until the battery's under-voltage PCB kicks in and cuts power completely. Did you finish the first saber yet? Let's see it!
you wanna see it? let me whip it out. attached. maybe a video tonight later. kids just went to bed. bah... this won't let you uplaod from your phone!?. ach.. pics later.
now is it a regulator buck boost? or a linear regulator? because as the batts voltage drops... a linear regulator requires a good 2v above the output and your current will drop considerably. have you ever put an ammeter in line at say 50% batt life? Can someone explain how PWM will work with a digital MOSFET. PWM is by my understanding a digital way to control analog devices... like LEDs .