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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 406712 times) previous topic - next topic

JakeSoft

I have 22awg for LEDs and from the batts to the buck, so not to add resistance or limit current.  24 for all else.  the insulation on my stock of 26 was shite.  when I used alligators from my helping hands.. it chewed thru it whilst tinning.  do'h.

If you put a few wraps of electrical tape around the jaws of your helping hands then it'll stop it from chewing through your insulation. It also allows you to hold more delicate parts without scratching them up, tearing them, etc.

JakeSoft

Hi, guys! Thanks for this awesome thread, it is really inspiring!  :)  Now I am still collecting information to figure out what components to order, so after having it all read out, I have a couple of questions to ask:

  • How much memory do I need in the WT588D for a decent soundboard? Humming (idle, swing), clashes (preferably a few different samples), switch-on and switch-off sounds, beeps/perhaps voice prompts for setup...

If you only want one sound font then 8M is plenty.

  • Are the sounds MP3 or PCM?

Use .wav format at 10K or 20K Hz for best performance. .MP3 is supported, but it will lag on switching sounds.

  • What is the conclusion about the batteries - what form factor and technology are the best choice? I am aiming for the endurance, because I don't want the thing go dead on me in the middle of a party. ;)


The best way to make sure you can run all day is to use a swapable battery that you can just change when it runs out. Even the best rechargables won't last for hours on end.

Oh, just another thing! Has anyone tried to approximate the LED string effect by graduatelly turning the LED on and off? Of course, that is not the same as the actual LED string, but I believe it would look better than the immediate ON/OFF.
You haven't seen my YouTube videos, have you?

jonnieZG

@billpealer and @JakeSoft - thanks for the answers!

The best way to make sure you can run all day is to use a swapable battery that you can just change when it runs out. Even the best rechargables won't last for hours on end.
You are right! Either way, we'll need a couple of extra batteries for swap.

You haven't seen my YouTube videos, have you?
I did see just this one at first: https://youtu.be/3PacAFmnF_8 - but now I see there are also a few others. :) I missed to notice the fade in and out effect, but I see it now. Cool! :)

What LED did you use for the blade in the Mk II Lightsaber (the one in the video above) - was it http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/luxeon-rebel-endor-star-rgb-high-power-led ? The flash on clash is awesome!

Also, what is the speaker and do you drive it directly or with an amp? It seems quite loud. I see some 24mm 8Ohm 2W speakers on eBay, but I'd like mine "to go to eleven" ;)

Canobi

i understand this. I am a producer.  50hz PAL.  60hz NTSC.

i did not know that increased flicker dims an led.  120hz HDTVs are not dim.  i will just have to play with a mosfet and led.  and regardless of how i conceptualize what's happening, at least just accept the findings. 

the stacked wt and nano is,.. here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKps0fm1Wo0  around 2:37
My knowlage of PWM mainly comes from synths for adjusting the ADR (attack, decay, release) times as I do a bit music and sound design on the side.

From what I understand, the dimming effect is produced by shortening the pulse width and at 50~60Hz this makes the LED appear to dim. Looks like I was wrong about ramping up to higher frequencies, my bad.

jshaw

What sound fonts are you folks using?  I've grabbed the free ones from freesound.org[1] and made ~20s versions of all of them (strike0-hum, etc) by appending the hum to the "special" sounds, but they aren't super smooth transitions.  The 20s hum sounds great, but the transition from strike to hum, or swing to hum is clunky.  I've also seen the UltraSaber free sound fonts [2], but they are .lso files and I'm unsure how to play those.   

I'll probably buy a couple of soundfonts, but want to make sure they come as .wav files.

[1] http://www.freesound.org/people/joe93barlow/packs/5968/
[2] https://www.ultrasabers.com/Sound-Font-p/soundfont-manual.htm

billpealer


jshaw

here.

DL them before saberfont.com takes them down.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V2-P806.aspx
Woah, that seems like it would be of concern to the folks who made these sound fonts...  Thanks for the pointer.

JakeSoft

There are a lot of free sound fonts out there for Obsidian, but to use them in your own custom application like we do around here requires some extra work. Follow these instructions to make them compatible with the WT588D.

1. Open Audacity. (can be downloaded for free here: http://audacityteam.org/)

2. Select File->Import->Raw Data

3. Browse to the .lsu file.

4. Select these options on the Import Raw Data dialog:
  - Encoding: Signed 16 bit PCM
  - Byte Order: Little-endian
  - Channels: 1 (Mono)
  - Start Offset: 0 bytes
  - Amount to Import: 100%
  - Sample rate: Anything from 44100 Hz to 48000 Hz

You can change the pitch and mood of the sounds by messing with the sample rate. Experiment until you get a sound you like. I recommend you do the hum and power on sounds first, then convert all the other files to match.


5. At the bottom left of the Audacity window, select "Project Rate" to either 10000 OR 20000.
6. select File->Export
7. Choose a file name and set save type as "WAV" then press Save.

You will now have a sound file that is compatible with the WT588D. Import it in the WT588D programming software as normal and enjoy.

darkside

i know this is going back to what was said before but i just found out... when my pro mini pack fell to the floor... it is a 5v not a 3.3v like i thought i had ordered. with 16MHz instead of 8MHz. so now i wont need that +5 regulator. but now i am wondering if my power source is too low for it all. on meter it showed 4.83v when fresh. or do you think that is enough bill, jake. yes or no

JakeSoft

i know this is going back to what was said before but i just found out... when my pro mini pack fell to the floor... it is a 5v not a 3.3v like i thought i had ordered. with 16MHz instead of 8MHz. so now i wont need that +5 regulator. but now i am wondering if my power source is too low for it all. on meter it showed 4.83v when fresh. or do you think that is enough bill, jake. yes or no
Your 5V Pro mini won't run on 4.83 volts.

CrossRoads

Connect the 4.83V to Vcc instead of RAW, bypass the 5V regulator.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

darkside

thanks crossroads and jakesoft. first i will try your suggestion crossroads... i also checked out your sight for a min trying to figure out if you teach fencing or do circuits or both. well either way i will give it a shot thanks again. 

billpealer

#222
Dec 17, 2015, 09:54 pm Last Edit: Dec 17, 2015, 10:28 pm by billpealer
thanks crossroads and jakesoft. first i will try your suggestion crossroads... i also checked out your sight for a min trying to figure out if you teach fencing or do circuits or both. well either way i will give it a shot thanks again. 
is your 4.83v a nimh batt pack?  that is an odd total voltage for lithium or alkaline.


if it IS nimh (AAA?),  your voltage is gonna drop, and drop fast when the audio starts to suck it down, and the LEDs start to chew it up. 

i use a 4v lithium with one of these guys sending juice to the arduino and WT. 5.1v and 500ma.  good stable juice and will keep vout stable as vin drops. just your current will drop,  but i think even at 150ma and 5v is more than enough to drive it all.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5V-to-500mA-DC-DC-5V-Out-Boost-Converter-Step-Up-Power-Module-for-Phone-Mp3-4-/161278319601?hash=item258cefdbf1:g:mqQAAOxyUylTT3Nt

darkside

just standard energizer aaa 1.5v each. but i will check around but for now thi will do unless i find something sooner than next year.

raphax

Also, see my YouTube channel for instructional videos on how to program the modules once you have the software and a programmer.


https://youtu.be/wQWYXCt8hiI

https://youtu.be/UgGT5Jxial4
But do you use an programmer, i need one ? Or it can be program with my arduino uno or nano ?

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