Arduino Lightsaber

IngoJ:
Hi,
I have previously worked with the WTV020SD-16P sound module (earlier state breadboard prototype: - YouTube). Unfortunately, I did not get it to play the sounds without gaps. On Youtube I found the videos from JakeSoft and then ended up in this forum. In an earlier post Jake wrote that the WT588D module is able to play the sounds without gaps. Wonderful, so I decided to buy a WT588D and now I'm experimenting with it. The code of SugarBombs works fine. It plays the first eight sounds/playlists but as with the WTV020 I also have gaps between them. I already tried the One Line Mode with the same result.

What am I doing wrong? How did you guys solve it?

stop using this.
void loop()
{

WT588D_Send_Command(file_count);

file_count++;

if(file_count == 8) file_count = 0;

delay(50); //give the module time to start playing

while(digitalRead(WT588D_BUSY) == 0) { }

delay(200);

}

and just cook up some button or switch code, and have this be the executable.

WT588D_Send_Command(01);
or
WT588D_Send_Command(00);

what ever playlists you have made in your module.

tap the button a few times. AND READ THIS THREAD CAREFULLY. all the answers you seek are already written out. I know because I am the dumbest guy in here and I got it all to work. i was ready to give up and just buy a hasbro lightsaber guts. i didn't.

Thanks Bill.
I used the "standard" code from SugarBombs only for testing purposes and better understanding the new sound module. Now I use my existing code that I wrote for the WTV020 module.

Regarding "gapless playback" I found this in your post #135 on page 10: "also,.. to bypass default or interrupt hum,.. just program the WT so that every activation sound, except for blade off, is followed by 20-30 seconds of hum looped. it wont take up any more space on the device and plays seamlessly with less or no gaps."

That brought me much further! I reprogrammed my WT588D-U with some HUM.WAV entries added to the playlists of my CLASH-, SWING-, ... sounds. And it works great that way. I'll make a new video and post it here.

IngoJ:
Thanks Bill.
I used the "standard" code from SugarBombs only for testing purposes and better understanding the new sound module. Now I use my existing code that I wrote for the WTV020 module.

Regarding "gapless playback" I found this in your post #135 on page 10: "also,.. to bypass default or interrupt hum,.. just program the WT so that every activation sound, except for blade off, is followed by 20-30 seconds of hum looped. it wont take up any more space on the device and plays seamlessly with less or no gaps."

That brought me much further! I reprogrammed my WT588D-U with some HUM.WAV entries added to the playlists of my CLASH-, SWING-, ... sounds. And it works great that way. I'll make a new video and post it here.

boom.

just got the new 3d printer in. i have already printed battery sleds,. speaker housings, activation boxes,.. uh, spacers,.. also,. i hate trying to tighten the button nut for 16mm buttons so i made an internal washer with concave fitting, so you can actually turn the nut.

anyone need a part?. i feel i should pay this group back,.. Jake you too man. let me know,. i'll print up a part. i have black filament now. looks nice with chrome or raw aluminum.
check out the attachments.

also i defeated the wire twisting issue in my V1.0, analog style. i just put the batt pack below the blade LED holder, and unscrew the blade holder,.. pull the batts out,. swap,. stuff em back in,. and screw the blade holder back in.

no twisting. works fine.

new saber came in to day,. what do you all think? silver brass, and black components? 11.4 inches from end to end.

attached. 7mm 3d printed spacer on the pommel. makes it a 4 turn screw and added 7mm. 10.75" is now 11" i may add another 5mm spacer on the other side of the ribbed handle.

and 3d printed activation box. gives a lot more room in the hilt. i can also print shrouds,.. ooh. OD is 37mm should be easy enough.

I really envy that activation box! It's always the biggest headache how to make a fitting activation box and you really need it, otherwise there is no way to fit in any meaningful circuitry in the hilt...

No billpealer I must the dummest since I bought a pic chip programmer instead of the wt588d sound board programmer. So now I have to order the proper one which sets me back a week or two since it is coming from China. Duuh

darkside:
No billpealer I must the dummest since I bought a pic chip programmer instead of the wt588d sound board programmer. So now I have to order the proper one which sets me back a week or two since it is coming from China. Duuh

it still boggles the mind why people just don't use the WT588D-U and skip the programmer, and the Nano with usb,. and skip the programer. If you buy the Nano with no headers, it is only 2cm wide and 4mm tall. it also lets you modify the software IN HILT.

My "TIE FIGHTER" MCU sled allows me to stack those 2 exact modules and holds them in the hilt either at 31mm OD for base hilts, and 28.5mm OD for the ribbed and V grooved extensions and chokes, from TCSS.

I'll gladly print these sleds for anyone who asks.

That sounds good and all dut the way I have it for now is I have a 16 pin mount for the sound board that way I can remove it at any time to either put new sounds on it or adjust the programming without taking the hole thing apart. All I have to do is removed that one chip. I may do the same for my pro mini as well. Besides once I get good at it all then I may step up to what you have. I do have a question for you... Programming the pro mini is like the wt558d code right. If so I can use that as a get start point.

Bill,

I too am trying my hand at 3D printing. Can you share with us what the ID, OD and threads used?

i am more interested in the type of 3d printer you used. not that i have the extra cash for one. so you made a devise for threading the 16mm nut onto the button now that has my curiosity peaked but must master the coding of my pro mini and wt588d. this is my testbed. now if you can 3d print some sort of a cree-rebel-RGB holder say big enough to fit in a 1" schedule 80 i think pvc length of say 1" i will give it a try. my pvc version is ok but need something a little cleaner. just tell me where i need to send the m'order.

17mm ID for a 16mm switch spacer/box. 20mm OD or 21mm wide for rectangular boxes.

for a firm fit.
32mm OD for internals for main TCSS tubing.
29mm for ribbed and V grooved tubing.
I don't know the tpi of tcss parts.

subract 1mm from that if you want it to slide with little effort.

I bought a DaVinci Jr. 1.0 printer. $230 on black Friday. normally $399. you can get them for $300 I think now.

it's OK. not quite a $1500 makerbot. but it works.

I do not recommend using this material to hold LEDs. heat. ya know? but I can print up a few. what is the ID of your pvc ? the star form factor should fit comfy in a 22mm ID housing.

i don't have a caliper to give you the proper size... but the v4 infinity blade with 1" OD fits in it with little play. ok found a ruler the ID of the hilt is 1" ID... yes i know its rather small but hey its my first attempt at this from scratch. i do have multiple plans for 1-1/4" sized sabers for in the future.

hey billpealer could you tell which pins you used on your momentary switch. mine has 8 and only figured out that 2 are for the led. i even tried to find a spec sheet for mine and came up with nothing. i even got it from tcss

darkside:
hey billpealer could you tell which pins you used on your momentary switch. mine has 8 and only figured out that 2 are for the led. i even tried to find a spec sheet for mine and came up with nothing. i even got it from tcss

I have 4 pins. so it was a no brainer. just tape the button down and hook up a simple circuit with an led. when it lights up you have a hit. when you take the tape off, if the light goes out you struck oil. then mark the pins with a sharpie.

thanks i will do that... but i think i ran into another snag... 16mm switches are too long for my hilt so i need to get the short ones for this one... well part of making a prototype. i will use the long ones in my next hilt. waste not want not... thanks again billpealer. half of says stop now and give up but the other half says must keep going it can be done... etcetera.

darkside:
thanks i will do that... but i think i ran into another snag... 16mm switches are too long for my hilt so i need to get the short ones for this one... well part of making a prototype. i will use the long ones in my next hilt. waste not want not... thanks again billpealer. half of says stop now and give up but the other half says must keep going it can be done... etcetera.

there is no try. i can send you a switch box and goodies. it will save your long 30mm switch. message me your addy.

fixed, but the sound syc is off. it's not a major deal.

um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?

I've been looking at getting a custom button box master part made from alu as I have some billets. I was then going to take a mould and make cold casts using different metals such as cobalt, titanium, chromium etc, or just plain black resin depending on the hilt but the cheapest quote I've had is £200 for the one part ( " ).. (><)..*?!(°°o)?!!!

I would be most grateful if you can help me out, though I'd be happy to make a trade of some sort rather than ask for a freebie.
I'm quite handy in the workshop so I could make you a custom hilt part in return, like an interesing emitter shroud, detail part or some such.

Talking of which, here's a pic of the mini saber I just finished up. It's 7 1/2" from end to end and has a 2 1/2' x 1" poly blade

Canobi:
um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?

I've been looking at getting a custom button box master part made from alu as I have some billets. I was then going to take a mould and make cold casts using different metals such as cobalt, titanium, chromium etc, or just plain black resin depending on the hilt but the cheapest quote I've had is £200 for the one part

casting ain't cheap. none of those metals aint cheap. you might be able to get it lathed from aluminum for about $250 if you have the CNC file.

but,..i can for sure make you what you need. continue this in my messages please. message me. i'll make you a few. your mini hilt looks righteous. i do have some questions before i print. message me.

Jake, back to Arduino stuff. You stated that even though you use a 3 axis tilt sensor for swing, you still use the analog clash sensor (switch) on interrupt.
is that still the case?

what's up with that? i looked at the sample code for the tilt sensor looks pretty straight forward. were clash hits not generating enough data to trigger the arduino to send a command to the WT??

i am waiting for my sensor but it looks like a simple query of the xyz inputs is all that is needed, and the more g forces will trigger higher numbers. did that not work as conceptualized for you?

so
{
if xy or z is <= "swingvalue" && > "restvalue"

{ else sendSwingCommand(0);
}
}

no?

thanks billpealer... is that new video fixed yet i want to look at it again.