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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 407741 times) previous topic - next topic

billpealer

No billpealer I must the dummest since I bought a pic chip programmer instead of the wt588d sound board programmer. So now I have to order the proper one which sets me back a week or two since it is coming from China. Duuh
it still boggles the mind why people just don't use the WT588D-U and skip the programmer, and the Nano with usb,. and skip the programer.  If you buy the Nano with no headers, it is only 2cm wide and 4mm tall.  it also lets you modify the software IN HILT.

My "TIE FIGHTER" MCU sled allows me to stack those 2 exact modules and holds them in the hilt either at 31mm OD for base hilts, and 28.5mm OD for the ribbed and V grooved extensions and chokes, from TCSS.

I'll gladly print these sleds for anyone who asks.

darkside

That sounds good and all dut the way I have it for now is I have a 16 pin mount for the sound board that way I can remove it at any time to either put new sounds on it or adjust the programming without taking the hole thing apart. All I have to do is removed that one chip. I may do the same for my pro mini as well. Besides once I get good at it all then I may step up to what you have. I do have a question for you... Programming the pro mini is like the wt558d code right. If so I can use that as a get start point.

DJWing79

Bill,

I too am trying my hand at 3D printing. Can you share with us what the ID, OD and threads used?

darkside

i am more interested in the type of 3d printer you used. not that i have the extra cash for one. so you made a devise for threading the 16mm nut onto the button now that has my curiosity peaked but must master the coding of my pro mini and wt588d. this is my testbed. now if you can 3d print some sort of a cree-rebel-RGB holder say big enough to fit in a 1" schedule 80 i think pvc length of say 1" i will give it a try. my pvc version is ok but need something a little cleaner. just tell me where i need to send the m'order.   

billpealer

17mm ID for a 16mm switch spacer/box. 20mm OD or 21mm wide for rectangular boxes.

for a firm fit.
32mm OD for internals for main TCSS tubing.
29mm for ribbed and V grooved tubing.
I don't know the tpi of tcss parts.

subract 1mm from that if you want it to slide with little effort.

I bought a DaVinci Jr. 1.0 printer. $230 on black Friday. normally $399.  you can get them for $300 I think now.

it's OK. not quite a $1500 makerbot.  but it works.

I do not recommend using this material to hold LEDs.  heat. ya know?  but I can print up a few.  what is the ID of your pvc ? the star form factor should fit comfy in a 22mm ID housing.


darkside

i don't have a caliper to give you the proper size... but the v4 infinity blade with 1" OD fits in it with little play. ok found a ruler the ID of the hilt is 1" ID... yes i know its rather small but hey its my first attempt at this from scratch. i do have multiple plans for 1-1/4" sized sabers for in the future.

darkside

hey billpealer could you tell which pins you used on your momentary switch. mine has 8 and only figured out that 2 are for the led. i even tried to find a spec sheet for mine and came up with nothing. i even got it from tcss

billpealer

hey billpealer could you tell which pins you used on your momentary switch. mine has 8 and only figured out that 2 are for the led. i even tried to find a spec sheet for mine and came up with nothing. i even got it from tcss
I have 4 pins.  so it was a no brainer.  just tape the button down and hook up a simple circuit with an led.  when it lights up you have a hit.  when you take the tape off, if the light goes out you struck oil.  then mark the pins with a sharpie.

darkside

thanks i will do that... but i think i ran into another snag... 16mm switches are too long for my hilt so i need to get the short ones for this one... well part of making a prototype. i will use the long ones in my next hilt. waste not want not... thanks again billpealer. half of says stop now and give up but the other half says must keep going it can be done... etcetera.

billpealer

#249
Dec 23, 2015, 10:58 pm Last Edit: Dec 24, 2015, 05:18 pm by billpealer Reason: update
thanks i will do that... but i think i ran into another snag... 16mm switches are too long for my hilt so i need to get the short ones for this one... well part of making a prototype. i will use the long ones in my next hilt. waste not want not... thanks again billpealer. half of says stop now and give up but the other half says must keep going it can be done... etcetera.
there is no try.  i can send you a switch box and goodies.  it will save your long 30mm switch. message me your addy.

https://youtu.be/OL6TeyTw8V4

fixed, but the sound syc is off.  it's not a major deal.

Canobi

<tentatively puts hand up> um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?



I've been looking at getting a custom button box master part made from alu as I have some billets. I was then going to take a mould and make cold casts using different metals such as cobalt, titanium, chromium etc, or just plain black resin depending on the hilt but the cheapest quote I've had is £200 for the one part (  "  ).. (><)..*?!(°°o)?!!!

I would be most grateful if you can help me out, though I'd be happy to make a trade of some sort rather than ask for a freebie.
I'm quite handy in the workshop so I could make you a custom hilt part in return, like an interesing emitter shroud, detail part or some such.

Talking of which, here's a pic of the mini saber I just finished up. It's 7 1/2" from end to end and has a 2 1/2' x 1" poly blade




billpealer

#251
Dec 24, 2015, 04:19 am Last Edit: Dec 24, 2015, 10:28 pm by billpealer
<tentatively puts hand up> um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?

I've been looking at getting a custom button box master part made from alu as I have some billets. I was then going to take a mould and make cold casts using different metals such as cobalt, titanium, chromium etc, or just plain black resin depending on the hilt but the cheapest quote I've had is £200 for the one part


casting ain't cheap. none of those metals aint cheap.  you might be able to get it lathed from aluminum for about $250 if you have the CNC file.

but,..i can for sure make you what you need.  continue this in my messages please. message me.  i'll make you a few.  your mini hilt looks righteous. i do have some questions before i print.  message me.

billpealer

Jake, back to Arduino stuff.  You stated that even though you use a 3 axis tilt sensor for swing, you still use the analog clash sensor (switch) on interrupt.
is that still the case?

what's up with that? i looked at the sample code for the tilt sensor looks pretty straight forward.  were clash hits not generating enough data to trigger the arduino to send a command to the WT??

i am waiting for my sensor but it looks like a simple query of the xyz inputs is all that is needed, and the more g forces will trigger higher numbers.   did that not work as conceptualized for you?


so 
{
if xy or z is  <= "swingvalue" && > "restvalue" 
   
    { else  sendSwingCommand(0);
  }
}

no?

darkside

thanks billpealer... is that new video fixed yet i want to look  at it again.

stinky1

#254
Dec 24, 2015, 10:23 am Last Edit: Dec 24, 2015, 10:29 am by stinky1
Wow just found this thread and read it all,  and got a splitting migraine headache!!

Luckily I was able to find the processor some guy said he liked better,   a Arudino Nano.
He said he liked it cause it had the USB port already on it.   My question is,  is it basically
the same as a Pro Mini?  Will the command scripts work on the Nano just the same as the
Pro Mini?   

Also the Pro Minis are updated on Ebay, "Enhancement Pro Mini 3.3V/5V adjustable 16M MEGA328P Arduino pro mini compatible"  So is this one good?  I understand the 16M memory,  and the voltage
differential is for different LED drivers I suppose.

Basically I have very very little electronic experience.  The version IV module looks great,  I suppose once you know what you are doing,  adding the Accelerometer? I think,  probably is easy.

Really want to jump in,  but guess i'm still in primer mode.   Used a breadbox when i was a kid in some
Radio Shack circuit board kit.

On a off story, went to Disney store to check out 29 dollar,  colored blade lightsabers.
Seems they power up fine,  and you swing them they make noise.  But a few seconds after you stop
moving it,  it shuts right off!!    After reading this forum,  at least I figured out they have some auto
shut down setting set too high in them!!   Guess that is what triggered me looking up all this lol!!

Earlier in the thread a guy was talking about a voltage limiter,  I figure I would use two 18650's and then limit the voltage so light and effects could stay lit longer.

Anyways at 4:18 am,  I think I'll sleep on it.

Nice work!  I watched the vids and that is cool beans!!  Thanks for cheap alternative and I can actually learn something.




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