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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 407477 times) previous topic - next topic

Canobi

casting ain't cheap. none of those metals aint cheap.  you might be able to get it lathed from aluminum for about $250 if you have the CNC file.

but,..i can for sure make you what you need.  continue this in my messages please. message me.  i'll make you a few.  your mini hilt looks righteous. i do have some questions before i print.  message me.
PM inbound ;)

jonnieZG

Hey, guys! Just one more stupid question: I notice there is no actual power switch. The Arduino runs the whole time, waiting for the activation key to be pressed, right? How much current does it drain when in that stand-by?

billpealer

Hey, guys! Just one more stupid question: I notice there is no actual power switch. The Arduino runs the whole time, waiting for the activation key to be pressed, right? How much current does it drain when in that stand-by?
i think the phantom drain of my setup is almost 300ma.  my 1200mah batts drain in under 4 hours on standby alone.

billpealer

Wow just found this thread and read it all,  and got a splitting migraine headache!!

Luckily I was able to find the processor some guy said he liked better,   a Arudino Nano.
He said he liked it cause it had the USB port already on it.   My question is,  is it basically
the same as a Pro Mini?  Will the command scripts work on the Nano just the same as the
Pro Mini?   

Nice work!  I watched the vids and that is cool beans!!  Thanks for cheap alternative and I can actually learn something.
all adruinos program the same.  you just need to select the right model in the Arduino software so it uploads it to the device .  i think  it is about compiling the program.  i just know i have a ATTINY85, UNO, Nano, and Micro.  All the code i have ever made works on them all.

billpealer

thanks billpealer... is that new video fixed yet i want to look  at it again.
fixed.

stinky1

This might help some people,  nice article about how guy made his light saber.
Code and purdy pictures included.

A Jedi quest: How did I build my lightsaber

http://www.carlosvadillo.com/?page_id=21

I like how he linked the module board together.
He used a ADA Fruit, which is comparable to the Nano.
Sure some useful info is here.



billpealer

#261
Dec 24, 2015, 06:48 pm Last Edit: Dec 24, 2015, 10:34 pm by billpealer
This might help some people,  nice article about how guy made his light saber.
Code and purdy pictures included.

A Jedi quest: How did I build my lightsaber

http://www.carlosvadillo.com/?page_id=21

I like how he linked the module board together.
He used a ADA Fruit, which is comparable to the Nano.
Sure some useful info is here.

anytime i see code that looks like (int i = 0; i < 3; i += 1)  i glaze over.  i see code like this all the time, including the WT code,. and i have 2 arduino books, they are no help.  and no one in this thread has been able to help me conceptualize how to articulate this type of code in my mind to understand it.  so i don't use it.  and i have asked. one day, maybe it will just click due to other ardunio-ing.  that hapenned last week with If / Else statements.  i now know what they are doing and how to write them from scratch when i need conditional events.

stinky1

I included it,  cause I guess I can figure it out better with the accessories attached and pictured.
Not just the bare electronic diagram.   You do supply that here in this post,  but the little tutorial with all the pictures helps me conceptualize putting it all together better.   I only started studying this two days ago.
So it helps gel the concepts covered here in my and hopefully other newbies minds on how to set it up.

I suppose if you wanted to make a led strip up down ignition style,  you would of course have to understand
the coding and commands to make it do that.  I wanted to do that,  but all in all the mixing color RGB
3 LED units are a whole lot more durable,  and I am gonna use a thick tube so I can hit stuff hard!!!

I thank the force for leading me to this post.  Time to order some components,  and I'll have to track down
a whats that thing called,  grounded electrostatic solder gun.

I did find a post about LED string lightsaber here for anyone interested.

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=361566.0


Canobi

Hey, guys! Just one more stupid question: I notice there is no actual power switch. The Arduino runs the whole time, waiting for the activation key to be pressed, right? How much current does it drain when in that stand-by?
I was after the same info until I learned about kill switches which isolate the battery from the rest of the circuit when not in use.

jonnieZG

I was after the same info until I learned about kill switches which isolate the battery from the rest of the circuit when not in use.
Meh... That's not fool proof. I'll likely forget to switch it off and kill the battery... I was thinking about a passive stand-by control circuit based on motion or touch sensors : when the sabre is still, it would kill the power on the Arduinos. When you grab the sabre, the circuit would power up the controller giving it the 5 sec heads up for the boot to complete, so when you press the activation key it would promptly start. I just need to think it up some more...

darkside

Meh... That's not fool proof. I'll likely forget to switch it off and kill the battery... I was thinking about a passive stand-by control circuit based on motion or touch sensors : when the sabre is still, it would kill the power on the Arduinos. When you grab the sabre, the circuit would power up the controller giving it the 5 sec heads up for the boot to complete, so when you press the activation key it would promptly start. I just need to think it up some more...
you can always put in a kill plug in the hilt which will break the circuit and kill power to the whole thing.

jonnieZG

you can always put in a kill plug in the hilt which will break the circuit and kill power to the whole thing.
That is the simplest solution, but as I said before, really easy to forget to switch it off. Does anyone know how Ultra Sabres and other commercial products handle that problem?

billpealer

That is the simplest solution, but as I said before, really easy to forget to switch it off. Does anyone know how Ultra Sabres and other commercial products handle that problem?
they dont use arduinos

Protonerd

Yes, we know how they handle it. In two ways:

- they (and nearly all experiences saber builders) use the kill key to detach the battery from the board. Easy and very effective method to reduce the current consumption to 0.

- most saber electronics out in the market they can go to sleep mode. While this still does not reduce current consumption to 0 as above, it keeps it so low that with a good sized battery you can maintain shelve life for weeks.

Certainly the Arduino boards as well as mostly all satellite boards used together with them you can program sleep mode. That is actually the next step I plan to implement for my arduino saber.

Still, I will Keep the kill key. I do not think anyway that waking up from sleep mode is much less shorter than boot after power on reset.


JakeSoft

Jake, back to Arduino stuff.  You stated that even though you use a 3 axis tilt sensor for swing, you still use the analog clash sensor (switch) on interrupt.
is that still the case?

what's up with that? i looked at the sample code for the tilt sensor looks pretty straight forward.  were clash hits not generating enough data to trigger the arduino to send a command to the WT??

i am waiting for my sensor but it looks like a simple query of the xyz inputs is all that is needed, and the more g forces will trigger higher numbers.   did that not work as conceptualized for you?


so 
{
if xy or z is  <= "swingvalue" && > "restvalue" 
   
    { else  sendSwingCommand(0);
  }
}

no?
The code is actually a little more complicated than that. I did get clash detection to work, but it was so temperamental I got sick of working on it and just stuck with the clash sensor. You see, sometimes a hard hard swing would trigger a clash. I have seen this happen in YouTube videos of the commercial sound boards, so I know it must be a common drawback of using the accelerometer as a clash detector. I really hate that; it bugs me so much when I see it. This false-triggering never seems to happen with the clash sensor, so I'm still using that for now. Plus, as you know, the code is so easy with the clash sensor.

I won't rant here, but the accelerometer part of the code took me way too long to get working right and I still think it could be better. Far be it from me to discourage anyone from trying new things, but know what you're in for. As this thread demonstrates, I'm pretty happy to help out others develop their code, but I'd rather stay out of giving advice on the accelerometer motion detection. Here's hoping someone else reads this thread and can offer a better solution.

Your 3D printed parts look really good. I like your tie-fighter sled. I've got to try stacking WT588D on top of the Arduino board for shorter hilts. Did you solder directly to the WT588D pins, or use some kind of socket? How to you route your wires from your Arduino board to the sound module?

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