FYI - here is one based on the same chip with a dual speaker set up.http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-PAM8403-2-x-3W-Mini-Stereo-Class-D-Audio-Amplifier-Board-5V-Amp-Module-/301834046185?hash=item4646b60ae9:g:GfAAAOSwEetWBDwsi have to say,. stereo in,.. but it looks like mixed mono out. um,.. BOOOOOO!!!at least the one in the link about has the mono and stereo wiring illustrated. dual speakers with 2 WTs is a neat idea Jake. it's not true mixing,.. but rather.. a concert!
That pcb is intriguing!So, working on my wiring, using a 3.7 V 1200 mah li-ion battery and a 3.3 V arduino connected to a Tri-Rebel Luxeon (wired independently), and I'm not convinced it's bright enough to light a 30"+ blade without some tweaking.What do you folks think? Should I drop a buck puck in, or should I use the adjustable outputs to use a value other than HIGH?
Just finished fabricating the first of a new set of arduino saber system PCBs I've been working on with DJWing 79. Loads of changes and improvement over the last ones and way simpler to make at home:I'll make the artwork PDFs available once we've had a chance to test them properly.
Thanks The boards work with 3v and 5v pro mini, though the input voltage can be higher. Also, the WT's audio outputs (DAC and PWM) have been broken out for easy access. The only real difference between them is that they support an increased number of high power LEDs (1~4).As to the tri-rebel brightness, have you tried lighting up 30"+ with it, you may be suprised, I use 1w LEDs all the time with great results:For 1w, how even it looks depend on the blades mod cons, usually cobinations of light tube, diffusion and tip mirror which I employ most of the time.
Seems pretty popular - why not get a set of 10 or 20 boards made at iteadstudio and make them available for a couple bucks each plus mailing cost?
Oh, cool. I wish I were better at fabricating, but the whole process is more than I want to get into.
I'm waiting on my blade and blade holder to arrive, so no, I've yet to actually try it out w/ a blade and diffuser. I tried just putting it against my blade cap, and it didn't seem too bright, but I guess I'll wait for my blade to arrive and then have a better idea. I'd be into buying one of these if you were to make them.Thanks for the pics and encouraging words, Canobi.
That is exacly how I feel about coding lol. Though I will have to tackle it properly one day as in my case, it doesn't make sense not to.Drop me a PM, maybe we can work something out I like to encourage self sufficiency and enjoy the DIY aspect of this project so I will also work to any budgets as well and offer bare bones PCBs to populate yourself to fully assembled and ready to go units and anything in between as a way to suit as many skill levels as I can.Talking of which, the SMT components have also been kept to a minimum since the possibility of hand soldering is rather quite high. This was taken into account early on and have deliberately left a touch more space between clusters of componants than would actually be necessary, though a fine tipped iron is still recommended as I've used SOT-23 and 0805 components which are quite small (barring the FoC resistor that is).Here's a quick look at the artwork for all four boards:And a mock up showing what they would look like with the modules mounted (the cap is just a placeholder to show where the impact switch sits as I didn't have one on hand when I took the pic) :I should mention that these boards are routed for one line comms, though I also have three line versions as well if reqired.
Have you considered piggy-backing your accelerometer on top of the Pro Mini? This would make the 3V version shorter. I did this with my Mk IV prototype and an ADXL335. (See video here: Arduino Mk IV Hardware ).
Also, what is the small board under the Pro Mini's programming pin headers?
I've really enjoyed participating in this thread from the beginning. It's great to see all of the ideas and skills people are bringing to the table. What I've watched people struggle with the most is the coding side of it. I'm wondering if I should entertain the idea of selling pre-programmed Pro Mini boards. That way people who don't want to learn C++ (which is no small feat if you've never programmed anything before) don't have to, but could still play with the hardware side.
I like it but how is it with the sensitivity being at the pommel end?
That is the smallest 3w amplifier module I've ever found:I'm not sure what the status is with these boards now though. I went back to get more and found the sellers online shop completely empty Weirdly though, links to buy new ones are attached to my original order so not sure what the manufacturer's trading status actually is.
Now your talking, that would compliment my hardware offerings If I send you a pin list and function rundown, could you work the code around the new board designs?
Basically, the WT pins are removed and replaced with regular ones, only this time they're soldered long side up giving enough length afterward to make a decent connection with header sockets (it's not a WT but you get the idea) :The shield is then attached to the module via the shield's header sockets and the male pins on other side go in the programmer.