Thanks I'll definitely use the vibration sensor for clash detection, how difficult is it to detect only swings with the adxl345? Could I use the accelerometer for swing detection then?
Can anyone testify for or against the ADXL335 vs the ADXL345?I am happy to report that removing Clash sound was a success. In its place is simply lock up sound. and when you clash, it plays lock up, if you clash and trigger a swing, it ends the lock up sound, and resolves a swing, and of course a swing decays to hum. I think the rollerball switches are firing too many false positives for swings, and limits the positions that will allow a sustained lock up. The accelerometer should reduce false positives for swings me thinks.the cool part is that you now have a fairly reliable lock up, wit no 2nd button.
I've only used the 335, but I looked at the 345. 335 seems much more straight forward because you just have to connect it to power and then you can do analog reads of X, Y, Z. Easy-peaszy. 345 seems like a much bigger pain to get into with a two-way 3-line serial interface or SPI and a library that you need. I may experiment with it eventually, but the 335 seems a lot more user friendly to me.
HiI want to do something very similar but for a fake metal sword. The accelerometer you are using is what I had in mind. I don't understand why you have an extra "impact switch" as this should be visible from the accelerometer as well.Can you elaborate on this?ThanksJantje
tasty. i had a happy accident last night. 2x CR123A in series.. I epoxied 2 batt holders together, and realized.. For TCSS (not 1"pvc. maybe 1 1/4" pvc tho) i can rest the nano and WT on the back side of it. add some 3d printed fins (tie fighter) with and extension platform to hold the Mosfets, and sensors to keep it central, and then epoxy the Speaker holder to the other side,..3d render coming.
actually, Canobi the board making jedi,.. the batt holders have pcb pins. you could mount your little board doohicky to the back of the batt holders. i think 7.4v is Jake approved if you are hoping to clone his setup. if you need a compact batt system. it may be the one!
Canobi, can you send, or post me a high-con (high contrast black and white image) of your PCB board and its dimensions. I'd like to make a 3D model of it, and then create a visualization of how it could be applied directly to a battery system. i think i can make a Hi-Con,. if you could tell me the lxwxh, that would be sufficient.
image attached. the white paper would be the cake.
I saw that you connect the ADXL335 X/Y/Z outputs to the Arduino. Do you keep polling these outputs in each loop? How are the data arriving? Do you get a digital value or is it more like an analog value from 0 to rail? Is it possible to scale to different acceleration ranges?For my build I use the MPU-6050 breakout board, it has a 2-line interface (DO/DI), Vcc and GND, so far I'm happy with the results for both swings and clashes, but I'm looking out for a 2nd option.
Someone say cake? Shame the routing is off but at least I know they come out ok.
Do you have pcb project file for any software?
You can make it even shorter by chopping off the two ends in the centre to make a duel cell holder.
I understand it will not work in PVC. i am a 1" PVC hater. if you are gonna go cheap, then do it all the way and buy a walmart lightsaber $9 clearance, and pull its guts for the speaker, sound and LED button. add a mosfet, and LED, and 3 1.2v NiMH and your fave LED,.. done. cheap done cheap, and done cheap right. Cheaper than an arduino and WT buy about $25 me thinks.All this arduino WT talk for PVC, im my mind is like slamming a Corvette Engine into a Cobalt. sure, you can talk about it, and maybe even do it... but you could just buy the corvette. Do saber builders really not have the $95 to buy the TCSS parts? If not? then it is by far cheaper, and VERY VIABLE to use the Hasbro method.there is also 1 1/4" PVC, how come no one uses that? too fat on the OD?
Hi Dizzyua, I don't use PCB CAD, just my android phone to make PDFs.