I get what you're saying, but in my mind anyone who has put in the time to build their own board can put it in whatever they want. They've earned the right.
The 1" PVC and Poly pipe is great for make-shift chassis and sleds though, so probably lots of people will do that.
dude of course. if you bought the filet with your own money, you can eat it well done, cold, with ranch dressing, on paper plates with plastic silverware. that's your prerogative. but i will still shake my head, not understanding. educate me. what is this?
but then you have to have something now like a sleeve clip or retention clip to hold the center of the 2 batts tight together. No?
that will save a cm or so tho. i thought about it. i also thought about printing a custom holder with retension tabs for both batts, and just rape the metal connections parts from the batt holders to epoxt into the ends. that is a RAD costume by the way! Sweet. plus a good looking lady can sell water in a rain storm!
I understand it will not work in PVC. i am a 1" PVC hater. if you are gonna go cheap, then do it all the way and buy a walmart lightsaber $9 clearance, and pull its guts for the speaker, sound and LED button. add a mosfet, and LED, and 3 1.2v NiMH and your fave LED,.. done. cheap done cheap, and done cheap right. Cheaper than an arduino and WT buy about $25 me thinks.All this arduino WT talk for PVC, im my mind is like slamming a Corvette Engine into a Cobalt. sure, you can talk about it, and maybe even do it... but you could just buy the corvette. Do saber builders really not have the $95 to buy the TCSS parts? If not? then it is by far cheaper, and VERY VIABLE to use the Hasbro method.A
there is also 1 1/4" PVC, how come no one uses that? too fat on the OD?
You are design board on android phone? I thinks what you create design project in some software and after create real board
Methinks there has been a slight misunderstanding.The 1" deal is all down to the stock alu tubing I use to scratch build some of my saber with. To make my life a bit easier in the workshop, I use a 30mm OD x 25mm ID tube for the main body as it's ID is the same size as the poly blades so also doubles as the blade seat. I then sleeve the main body with 30mm ID tubes of varying thickness (usually up to 34mm as its hard to find thicker tubing with the same ID) to make the emitter shrouds and/or other hilt details and other parts.Having the board fit a 25mm hole also doesn't leave anyone out.When I started out making sabers, I only ever used 1 1/4" PVC:I only have WIP shots of the silver ones but the blue one turned out like this:
OK, the board is finished and I just need to export the PDFs to photoshop for a quick tweak.I'll attach a high res pic of of the layout later but first I wanted to quickly go over the new power rail system.I had to put my thinking cap on for this one but a comment made a while back about bridging gave me an idea.The power rails are now regulated as requested and supports singular, or multi voltage setups for the pro mini and WT in any combination you wish using a new bridging system.I made this set of pics to show which pads are bridged to achieve the various voltage options:
I like the concept. A few notes (I know you love these):1) You'll need to move the arduino power off of the RAW pin and move it to VCC. Giving 3.3V to the raw pin will never power any type of pro mini. It won't work because you''ll be feeding 3.3V into the 3.3V regulator on the board. Since the power rails are all regulated now, you should be putting it to the VCC pin anyway because it doesn't make sense to regulate the voltage twice. 2) I like the bridge concept, however I suggest spacing them out a little and using through-hold vias instead of closely spaced solder pads. This makes it easy for ham-fisted solder novices to put a jumper wire through and solder it more easily. I can see folks accidentally bridging 3.3V to 5V and the chaos that will cause. 3) The VCC pin on the WT588D needs to be connected to the 3.3V rail. Always, no exceptions.
1. I'm a bit confused, I keep seeing people using Vcc to power stuff, is it an input, output or both?
2. Through hole vias may be too big for this to work and if I did use them, they would probably be very small anyway but I will look into it.Spacing the pads out any further will make them hard to bridge so I might just pre bridge them and have the end user tell me which setup they want to go with when ordering.
3. When I talk about the WT voltage I do mean it's main power, mem voltage stays at 3v3.
It's both. If you put battery power to the RAW pin then you are supplying power to the Arduino's on-board voltage regulator, which then regulates the voltage to the 3.3V rail on the Arduino itself (in the case of a 3.3V pro mini, it's 5V for a Nano or 5V pro mini). The VCC pin on the Arduino is tied directly to the Arduino's 3.3V rail, so if you have a regulated supply at the right voltage then you can go right to that pin. By putting power to the VCC pin you are *bypassing* the voltage regulator on the Arduino board. Now here's where it gets tricky. If you put power to the RAW pin, that will cause the voltage to be regulated to 3.3V (or 5V, depending on the flavor of Arduino). That VCC pin is still tied directly to the Arduino's regulated power rail, so it now becomes a source of regulated voltage!So, if you power the arduino with regulated voltage, the VCC pin is an input. If you power the Arduino with the RAW pin, the VCC pin is an output. Neat, huh?
Ok, I was just noticing on the diagrams that you posted that the 3.3v pin on the WT588D had nothing attached to it.
Sorry about this but I've had to reverse order the XYZ pin designation as I realised the ADXL was facing the wrong way round which would make it impossible to mount the 5v micro boost buck.
Dude, I Love your job!I Came here thanks to your last video on youtube (Arduino Lightsaber Mk IV Breadboard) and i have this Things:- Arduino Pro Mini (3.3V & 5V version ) - 2 ADXL335 Accelerometer (Sparkfun & Analog Devices)- Wt588d-28p & WT588D Usb Interface -32MBits - 16-pin DIP socket - 1w Red Led- A Library of lightsaber sounds.wav Like I see, I Have all to build the Lightsaber but... I an a Arduino Noob And I dont found a Assemble Schematic and Code to use assemble and test ... You can do One like tutorial? I just want to make a bladebuilders modified Lightsaber with the standart sounds things like On/Off , Swing, Shock and "Wnnnnnnn" (Yeah, Sounds crazy Hahaha ) Like this:Lightsaber sound effectsAnd like i say, Good Work on every Mark Haha
Hello, and welcome to the discussion! It looks like you've got what you need to get started. My best advice is to read this entire thread, although now that you mention it, I never did really post up a schematic for the Mk. III/IV systems that use the accelerometer. Oh well, maybe when I have time I'll create one. But if you're just starting out, you've got a while before you need to worry about that. Step 1 is to get your Arduino talking to your WT588D. Once you get that, you're ready to move on to some buttons and sensors.