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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 407455 times) previous topic - next topic

Canobi


JakeSoft

#436
Jan 15, 2016, 07:35 pm Last Edit: Jan 15, 2016, 07:36 pm by JakeSoft
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-/191756162028?hash=item2ca58ed3ec:g:eWYAAOSwnH1WZ8IF

1cm shorter than the Nano.
a bit more "ready-to-run" than the Pro Mini

the 5v version is 16mhz
Ooo, and it comes in 3.3V flavor as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-3-3V-8MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-M94-/351493857244?hash=item51d6aa9fdc:g:ZNYAAOSw8cNUNjmE

It's actually smaller than the Pro Mini if you take into account the programming headers on the mini either add additional height (straight pins) or length (90-degree pins).


billpealer

Anyone want to sell me an ADXL335? They are wicked cheap from China, but i don't want to wait 3 weeks.

the cheapest i can find on ebay US location is $4.78

anyone have an extra?  i'll pay $4.50 :)

billpealer

#438
Jan 15, 2016, 07:58 pm Last Edit: Jan 15, 2016, 08:04 pm by billpealer
Ooo, and it comes in 3.3V flavor as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-3-3V-8MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-M94-/351493857244?hash=item51d6aa9fdc:g:ZNYAAOSw8cNUNjmE

It's actually smaller than the Pro Mini if you take into account the programming headers on the mini either add additional height (straight pins) or length (90-degree pins).
dazwadimzayin!  wait? what?  why do you WANT to go 3v? now you can use the WT588D_U  guilt free.  you get less wiring, and a faster cpu by double. all devices can be 5v and USB.  no need for a 5v regulator,.. no need for 2 V+ going into the  WT..   so many pluses.

CrossRoads

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

JakeSoft

dazwadimzayin!  wait? what?  why do you WANT to go 3v? now you can use the WT588D_U  guilt free.  you get less wiring, and a faster cpu by double. all devices can be 5v and USB.  no need for a 5v regulator,.. no need for 2 V+ going into the  WT..   so many pluses.
Yeah, there are a lot of pluses to be sure. I have been building these for quite a while now and tried lots of different things. I just like the 3.3V setup because it offers the greatest flexibility and ease for the particular way that I do things. Remember that the parts I use (WT588D 16p and GY-61 ADXL335) both require a 3.3V source.


JakeSoft


billpealer

#442
Jan 15, 2016, 09:06 pm Last Edit: Jan 15, 2016, 09:24 pm by billpealer
Have you tried a legit distributor?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/sensors-transducers/accelerometers/1966355?k=ADXL335
http://www.mouser.com/Sensors/Motion-Position-Sensors/_/N-6g7q6?Keyword=ADXL335&FS=True
WHAT?!
Is this some kind of CS joke?  That's a terrible suggestion! LOL.

If I asked you where to buy a fish sandwich, and you showed me a picture of a lake and said "try here",..  i'd either laugh or be insulted.   So i'll just laugh.

And the people here are pretty dang legit.

I need the module, not the chip.  as 99.99999999999999997651%  of everyone else would too.

plus DigiKey sells the Chip for $6.00!!!!????  you can get the whole module for $5 on the bay and apparently at Sears!  LOL

billpealer

Yeah, there are a lot of pluses to be sure. I have been building these for quite a while now and tried lots of different things. I just like the 3.3V setup because it offers the greatest flexibility and ease for the particular way that I do things. Remember that the parts I use (WT588D 16p and GY-61 ADXL335) both require a 3.3V source.

and the Nano is too big? it has 3.3v output pin. don't you want to 86 the linear regulator?

JakeSoft

#444
Jan 15, 2016, 09:22 pm Last Edit: Jan 15, 2016, 09:23 pm by JakeSoft

All finished :)



And here's a link to the high res pic as promised:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e79t2a7bo8ggo4w/Spectrum%20saber%20board%20-%20ADXL%20varient.jpg?dl=0
It keeps getting better and better! I like the placement of the switch vias a lot better now.

Still a few issues.

1) The ADXL335 doesn't appear to have a positive power source linked in directly from any rail. The silkscreen seems to suggest that you intend to bridge it to raw battery power with a jumper maybe? If so, that will blow it up; the GY-61 ADXL335 is a 3.3V device. It needs to be attached to the 3.3V rail somehow and only fed regulated voltage.
2) This will work perfectly for a 3.3V Arduino variant, but will be incompatable with 5V Pro Mini or Nano. That's fine if that's what you intended, but 5V to the RAW pin will not power any standard arduino board. 5V will be under the dropout voltage of the arduino's on-board 5V regulator and it won't work. To compensate for this, you could
A) Bring out the raw pin to a via at the edge of the board and allow for direct battery power to be fed to the Arduino
B) Feed the 5V rail to the VCC pin via jumper as was done with the 3.3v rail.
3) [nit]The silk screen on pin 13 should be "SDA" as it is the one-line serial data, not a serial clock. Same with the "CLK" on the WT588D.

Just as a general comment, I've noticed that the power rail design meant to widen compatibility is adding some complexity that might be avoided if you simply made two distinct versions of the board.

billpealer

It needs to be attached to the 3.3V rail somehow and only fed regulated voltage.
2) This will work perfectly for a 3.3V Arduino variant, but will be incompatable with 5V Pro Mini or Nano.
the Nano has a 3.3v rail.  3v3pin..

"The 3.3V regulated output is able to supply 150 mA"

CrossRoads

I believe the 3.3V on a Nano comes from the FTDI chip, and is only capable of 50mA.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

JakeSoft

I believe the 3.3V on a Nano comes from the FTDI chip, and is only capable of 50mA.
Oh? Good info. I don't think I've ever actually tried to use it on my Nano.

I once tried to power my WT588D purely from the on-board regulator of my 3.3V pro Mini (an official Arduino board too, not a cheap clone) and I don't think it can source enough current to operate it properly either. It did work, but the sound would crackle and cut out once in a while. I got the feeling I was pushing the limits.

I wonder how much current those pro-micro boards that were posted earlier can source.

CrossRoads

"I need the module, not the chip.  as 99.99999999999999997651%  of everyone else would too."
So I guess it's just me that mounts chips on boards. Module was not mentioned in the request.  And I provided a specific link to a fish sandwich, not a lake.
Modules are also available http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/evaluation-boards-sensors/2622557?k=ADXL335
 I don't buy raw chips on ebay, too many questionable sources, counterfeits, fakes, repeatability is a problem, plus the long lead time. If I'm going to the effort of soldering down a minuscule sized part, I want to know I have a good part to start with.

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

stinky1

#449
Jan 15, 2016, 10:14 pm Last Edit: Jan 15, 2016, 10:26 pm by stinky1
QUOTE FROM CANOBI: "Here's one I mounted on a slightly different kind of cake I made for a stunt saber:



Lithium charging was the first thing on my list to tackle when I decided to make my saber fx system, took me the best part of a year to learn what I needed so I could confidently make and try the circuit without quite so much risk of blowing batteries or myself up. Luckily (though frustratingly) they've been duds and didn't do anything, a much preferable outcome for a failure when dealing with lithuim but I think I've finally worked out where I'm going wrong so making another proto.

The circuit is also now smaller than the cell it charges which makes for some intersting ways to include it. I have three ideas I'm toying with. Two of them were inspired by some S1 flex PCB I bought to play with. It's normally used for making ribbon connectors or 12v flexible LED light strips and is only 4mils (0.1016mm) thick so is super bendy."

How about one of these charge controllers?  Double 7.4 v http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=PCB++7.4V++18650&_sop=15



                                                           Single, double, triple:Y 1, 2 or 3 cells 1-2A Lithium ion Battery Charger Module PCB 18650 iphone 14450





                                                           Single:PCB for 1S 3.7V Li-ion Battery Pack (1.5A cut-off)  



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