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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 415423 times) previous topic - next topic

sercancitil5150

hı  ı need code and bread board please help me :( ı using ardunio nano and wtv020m01

jshaw

Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me :D

I'll try and find time to make a few this w/e along with the MMA versions for DJWing79 for the purpose of field testing.

Since the new layout is based on your diagram Jake, it seems only fitting you should have one.

Bill, you have dibs on #2 since you had the initiative and guts to ask outright ;)

First person to post "I'll take one" has #3.


Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.

Shipping is 5~7 days standard international and on lthe house, if you would prefer another method let me know in the PM and we can work out the details.
I'll take it :)

billpealer

Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me :D



Bill, you have dibs on #2 since you had the initiative and guts to ask outright ;)

First person to post "I'll take one" has #3.


Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.

Whooo Hoo!  i'll do more than test it.  i'll rig it with my flave of saber software. i will also use 2 sw-200 swing sensors in parallel. and positioned in a cross for "2axis" swings. i will need a 16p WT pre loaded with software.  Anyone want to donate one to me? I don't have the WT loader box. :( Can you do that part Canobi?

please load it with On sound, Hum, a few clashes, a few swings, and Off sound.  then make these playlists.

I can also send you the gap-less .wav files for this too.

Off sound
On sound with a few hums
Clash sound 1 with a few hums
Clash sound 2 with a few hums
swing sound 1 with a few hums
Swing sound 2 with a few hums

Then tell me the playlist number associated with each one. 0 thru 5.

i finished your button box last night. i'll post a rendering later when i get out of work.  You said you'd PM me and never did. What i wanted to discuss was, would 4 be a good first print run?  I will send you my address.  i'll need yours. also. i printed one already and the mm tolerances are tight. for the small holes, i can print your specs exactly, but due to the reality of the prints,.. i had to lightly sand them to fit a jig of the intended OD of the small LEDs thru the hole.  OR i can widen the small holes by .2mm and the print seems to nail the ID of the small holes.  actually increasing your hole diameters by .2mm would be a good idea for all of it.  but i can print it to exact spec and you can work a file or sand paper in the holes to widen them by .1- .2mm if you want super tight fits.

My board prefs are the nano and WT 28p usb, which i successfully stack, (less than 2cm tall) with a header-less nano. So your PCB i am really testing for you and this motley crew. :) Jake and Illuis have given me all the blocks I need to forge my own software. My 3d printer is a real help too. I don't plan to use the Pro Mini, or 16p WT. like,.. ever.  So your nice one PCB to rule them all, does not work for me. But i'll gladly load one up to you, and send it back!  Jake, to answer a question wayyy back, about the stack- i use a dot of hot glue at the USB ins of the nano and WT and stack there, and cut a 8mm x 2cm piece of pcb and hot glue that to the other end of the 2 units, and hot glue it up. it makes a flat little "box" of the boards.  the wires are all very short, and on the WT, i gleaned your method of soldering IN toward the center of the pcb. It never occurred to me to do that. then i shoot the wires out the back and center of the WT's pcb. up and over and solder straight down to the SDA pin and VCC pin of the arduino. I don't use the busy pin, so only 2 wires need to go from the WT to the Nano. the hot glue can be softened, the whole thing can be taken apart, and since only 2 solder points from the Nano to the WT, easily reworked.   i will post a video or photos eventually. i am waiting for ADXL to really get going again on a saber.

billpealer

#498
Jan 20, 2016, 04:37 pm Last Edit: Jan 20, 2016, 05:08 pm by billpealer
JShaw...
WT28p set up.  with a nano,  and BTW this schematic DOES NOT CONTROL the BuckBoost with PWM LED fading. but it will turn on the buck boost, and turn it off,   meaning- no FOC and no blade up or down. effect.  just on/off LED
i can't get PWM to work with a mosfet if i move it to the LED Vout side of the Buck Step down.


i have since moved my arduino Pin that goes to the mosfet to Pin 11 for PWM, tho i haven't gotten fading to work with a Buck, and the 2 sensors to non PWM pins. it's arbitrary.  you can do what you want.   also some people put a 1kohm resistor from pin 1 to pin 3 of the MOSFET to crash the PWM signal to 0 (Ground)  for Digital (HIGH/LOW) mosfet switching, you do not need it.

JakeSoft

Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me :D
No problem. It's for a good cause!

I'll try and find time to make a few this w/e along with the MMA versions for DJWing79 for the purpose of field testing.
I assume you'll do some lab testing with the software I posted first before sending out field test units, yes?

Since the new layout is based on your diagram Jake, it seems only fitting you should have one.
Thanks! Which diagrams, though? The artwork I posted before had the FETs on the other end of the board. Do you have another version that you haven't showed us?

Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.

Shipping is 5~7 days standard international and on lthe house, if you would prefer another method let me know in the PM and we can work out the details.
Awesome!

Canobi


billpealer

#501
Jan 21, 2016, 01:05 am Last Edit: Jan 21, 2016, 01:46 am by billpealer
<tentatively puts hand up> um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?



Cake.. batter.



all diameters of holes expanded by .1mm.  The printer has a resolution of .2mm,  but i am seeing a real world Margin or error of .3mm in ACTUALL prints.  BUT  the spacing on center of the 3 -3mm LED posts is still exactly 5mm.  So your led mini lenses will still be spaced right,  but the hole itself is a 10th of a mm wider.  right!?  a 10th of a mm.  LOL.  what is that a grain of salt?

Canobi

Whooo Hoo!  i'll do more than test it.  i'll rig it with my flave of saber software. i will also use 2 sw-200 swing sensors in parallel. and positioned in a cross for "2axis" swings. i will need a 16p WT pre loaded with software.  Anyone want to donate one to me? I don't have the WT loader box. :( Can you do that part Canobi?
Awesome :) don't be shy with the feedback. Good, bad or so so, it's all useful.



please load it with On sound, Hum, a few clashes, a few swings, and Off sound.  then make these playlists.

I can also send you the gap-less .wav files for this too.

Off sound
On sound with a few hums
Clash sound 1 with a few hums
Clash sound 2 with a few hums
swing sound 1 with a few hums
Swing sound 2 with a few hums

Then tell me the playlist number associated with each one. 0 thru 5.
Yeh, I can help you out with that WT if you want to send the samples over.


i finished your button box last night. i'll post a rendering later when i get out of work.  You said you'd PM me and never did. What i wanted to discuss was, would 4 be a good first print run?  I will send you my address.  i'll need yours. also. i printed one already and the mm tolerances are tight. for the small holes, i can print your specs exactly, but due to the reality of the prints,.. i had to lightly sand them to fit a jig of the intended OD of the small LEDs thru the hole.  OR i can widen the small holes by .2mm and the print seems to nail the ID of the small holes.  actually increasing your hole diameters by .2mm would be a good idea for all of it.  but i can print it to exact spec and you can work a file or sand paper in the holes to widen them by .1- .2mm if you want super tight fits.
With all the layout reworking and stuff going on at home I clean forgot, my humblest apologies.

If it's possible to widen the little row of three holes to 5.2mm, that would more than suffice. The two small outer holes are for screwing it to the hilt and aren't size critical, the larger ones also as I can thread tap or sand them as you mentioned if they're a bit small.

A run of 4 would more than suffice though, thank you so much :)

Saying that, are your skills for hire?


My board prefs are the nano and WT 28p usb, which i successfully stack, (less than 2cm tall) with a header-less nano. So your PCB i am really testing for you and this motley crew. :) Jake and Illuis have given me all the blocks I need to forge my own software. My 3d printer is a real help too. I don't plan to use the Pro Mini, or 16p WT. like,.. ever.  So your nice one PCB to rule them all, does not work for me. But i'll gladly load one up to you, and send it back!  Jake, to answer a question wayyy back, about the stack- i use a dot of hot glue at the USB ins of the nano and WT and stack there, and cut a 8mm x 2cm piece of pcb and hot glue that to the other end of the 2 units, and hot glue it up. it makes a flat little "box" of the boards.  the wires are all very short, and on the WT, i gleaned your method of soldering IN toward the center of the pcb. It never occurred to me to do that. then i shoot the wires out the back and center of the WT's pcb. up and over and solder straight down to the SDA pin and VCC pin of the arduino. I don't use the busy pin, so only 2 wires need to go from the WT to the Nano. the hot glue can be softened, the whole thing can be taken apart, and since only 2 solder points from the Nano to the WT, easily reworked.   i will post a video or photos eventually. i am waiting for ADXL to really get going again on a saber.
For size, my PCB isn't in the same league as your stack  by a long shot lol. I have been eyeing up the Leonardo 32U4 USB stick though. The mini is damn small but the 7 unused pins is bugging me as they equate to potential size reduction. The Leonardo would only have 4 spare pins left over and is half the size as the mini so could loose another 20~25mm in length.

I did come up with an idea for a stackable PCB system but I really need to finalise this one first before I get into deeper tinkering (I'm far too easily distracted).

billpealer

#503
Jan 21, 2016, 01:49 am Last Edit: Jan 21, 2016, 01:56 am by billpealer Reason: your website embed photos backwards
Saying that, are your skills for hire?

after your first velociraptor. everything else,.. is cake.



i can model anything. if only my Blender STL files could be sent to a CNC machine.  i could have anything CNC'd too.

What do you need modeled? PM me.  i can also send you the STL files to have 3d printed locally.

billpealer

Or were you talking about my Nun-Chuck skills?

Canobi

No problem. It's for a good cause!

I assume you'll do some lab testing with the software I posted first before sending out field test units, yes?
Yep :) I have a few tests in store for the PCB including current tolerances and continuity as well. I've also started looking at making a small test rig as I found some spring loaded pins while out web shopping which could be used in a drop down contact type setup for the PCBs, and there's a good amount of space next to the console on my DIY power supply where it can go too (I've attached a pic this time as my PhotoBucket app isn't working for some reason).



Thanks! Which diagrams, though? The artwork I posted before had the FETs on the other end of the board. Do you have another version that you haven't showed us?
Ah yes, um no.. with so many versions flying around now its getting hard to navigate around here lol. The ADXL version of the PCB is based on your MkIV diagram.

JakeSoft

Yep :) I have a few tests in store for the PCB including current tolerances and continuity as well.

Ok, great. PM sent. How exciting!

I've also started looking at making a small test rig as I found some spring loaded pins while out web shopping which could be used in a drop down contact type setup for the PCBs...

Oooh, really? That would be great to have to program the pro-mini without needing to solder the programming pin headers on and thereby save some space. Care to share?

JakeSoft

Has anyone found a good reliable supplier for the 16p modules with 16M or 32M of flash? Ordering from eBay, they often don't tell you how much flash in the description and it's a crap shoot. I've ordered from the same suppliers and sometimes I get 8M modules, sometimes I get 16, and once in a while I'm lucky enough to get a 32M module.

Protonerd

JShaw...
WT28p set up.  with a nano,  and BTW this schematic DOES NOT CONTROL the BuckBoost with PWM LED fading. but it will turn on the buck boost, and turn it off,   meaning- no FOC and no blade up or down. effect.  just on/off LED
i can't get PWM to work with a mosfet if i move it to the LED Vout side of the Buck Step down.


i have since moved my arduino Pin that goes to the mosfet to Pin 11 for PWM, tho i haven't gotten fading to work with a Buck, and the 2 sensors to non PWM pins. it's arbitrary.  you can do what you want.   also some people put a 1kohm resistor from pin 1 to pin 3 of the MOSFET to crash the PWM signal to 0 (Ground)  for Digital (HIGH/LOW) mosfet switching, you do not need it.
I'm still a bit confused why a buck is needed for LED control...? I thought a MOSFET and a PWM capable signal is the complete stuff you need for it...

billpealer

#509
Jan 21, 2016, 02:20 pm Last Edit: Jan 21, 2016, 03:37 pm by billpealer
I'm still a bit confused why a buck is needed for LED control...? I thought a MOSFET and a PWM capable signal is the complete stuff you need for it...
If i send 8.2v and unrestricted current to my LED it will fry it.

PWM does not limit current. it really doesn't limit voltage either,  but when you go from 0 volts to 8.2v 250 times a second,..  it starts to average to lower voltages.  I COULD put 1 ohm / 2-3 watt resistors to my LEDs,..  what is what a lot of (maybe even most) people do here to protect their lights.  That could be wasting 40% of the batt power to heat loss. Bucks waste maybe 10% or less of power in the conversion process. and they can drive other components.

good review of LED control.  I read it for the first time just now,  but have been tossed most of these crumbs via the folks here and old roommates from college who are versed on the topic of Computer Science, Control Systems, and Electrical Engineering.
http://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2010/apr/how-to-dim-an-led

Buck up/downs-  or what my smarter electrical engineer pals tell me are called, constant current induction devices- limit current and convert voltage to the desired Max levels,  thru either custom set up, or the ones i use have mini potentiometers for adjustment.

Jake-----
I can't find half of this stuff anywhere ELSE but Ebay. If i do, it is often 10X the cost.  and yeah,..  it is hit or miss with 75% of it. i am tired of getting devices with ratings and specs that after testing prove otherwise.  This is a great question.  i hope someone comes forward with another provider.

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