Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me I'll try and find time to make a few this w/e along with the MMA versions for DJWing79 for the purpose of field testing.Since the new layout is based on your diagram Jake, it seems only fitting you should have one.Bill, you have dibs on #2 since you had the initiative and guts to ask outright First person to post "I'll take one" has #3.Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.Shipping is 5~7 days standard international and on lthe house, if you would prefer another method let me know in the PM and we can work out the details.
Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me Bill, you have dibs on #2 since you had the initiative and guts to ask outright First person to post "I'll take one" has #3.Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.
Your most gratious Jake, thank you so much for taking the time to do that for me
I'll try and find time to make a few this w/e along with the MMA versions for DJWing79 for the purpose of field testing.
Since the new layout is based on your diagram Jake, it seems only fitting you should have one.
Drop me a PM with board setup preferences and addresses and I'll get them sent as soon as they're done.Shipping is 5~7 days standard international and on lthe house, if you would prefer another method let me know in the PM and we can work out the details.
I'll take it [/quote#3 goes to jshaw.
<tentatively puts hand up> um, would it be hard to make a switch box like this?
Whooo Hoo! i'll do more than test it. i'll rig it with my flave of saber software. i will also use 2 sw-200 swing sensors in parallel. and positioned in a cross for "2axis" swings. i will need a 16p WT pre loaded with software. Anyone want to donate one to me? I don't have the WT loader box. Can you do that part Canobi?
please load it with On sound, Hum, a few clashes, a few swings, and Off sound. then make these playlists.I can also send you the gap-less .wav files for this too.Off soundOn sound with a few humsClash sound 1 with a few humsClash sound 2 with a few humsswing sound 1 with a few humsSwing sound 2 with a few humsThen tell me the playlist number associated with each one. 0 thru 5.
i finished your button box last night. i'll post a rendering later when i get out of work. You said you'd PM me and never did. What i wanted to discuss was, would 4 be a good first print run? I will send you my address. i'll need yours. also. i printed one already and the mm tolerances are tight. for the small holes, i can print your specs exactly, but due to the reality of the prints,.. i had to lightly sand them to fit a jig of the intended OD of the small LEDs thru the hole. OR i can widen the small holes by .2mm and the print seems to nail the ID of the small holes. actually increasing your hole diameters by .2mm would be a good idea for all of it. but i can print it to exact spec and you can work a file or sand paper in the holes to widen them by .1- .2mm if you want super tight fits.
My board prefs are the nano and WT 28p usb, which i successfully stack, (less than 2cm tall) with a header-less nano. So your PCB i am really testing for you and this motley crew. Jake and Illuis have given me all the blocks I need to forge my own software. My 3d printer is a real help too. I don't plan to use the Pro Mini, or 16p WT. like,.. ever. So your nice one PCB to rule them all, does not work for me. But i'll gladly load one up to you, and send it back! Jake, to answer a question wayyy back, about the stack- i use a dot of hot glue at the USB ins of the nano and WT and stack there, and cut a 8mm x 2cm piece of pcb and hot glue that to the other end of the 2 units, and hot glue it up. it makes a flat little "box" of the boards. the wires are all very short, and on the WT, i gleaned your method of soldering IN toward the center of the pcb. It never occurred to me to do that. then i shoot the wires out the back and center of the WT's pcb. up and over and solder straight down to the SDA pin and VCC pin of the arduino. I don't use the busy pin, so only 2 wires need to go from the WT to the Nano. the hot glue can be softened, the whole thing can be taken apart, and since only 2 solder points from the Nano to the WT, easily reworked. i will post a video or photos eventually. i am waiting for ADXL to really get going again on a saber.
Saying that, are your skills for hire?
No problem. It's for a good cause! I assume you'll do some lab testing with the software I posted first before sending out field test units, yes?
Thanks! Which diagrams, though? The artwork I posted before had the FETs on the other end of the board. Do you have another version that you haven't showed us?
Yep I have a few tests in store for the PCB including current tolerances and continuity as well.
I've also started looking at making a small test rig as I found some spring loaded pins while out web shopping which could be used in a drop down contact type setup for the PCBs...
JShaw...WT28p set up. with a nano, and BTW this schematic DOES NOT CONTROL the BuckBoost with PWM LED fading. but it will turn on the buck boost, and turn it off, meaning- no FOC and no blade up or down. effect. just on/off LEDi can't get PWM to work with a mosfet if i move it to the LED Vout side of the Buck Step down.i have since moved my arduino Pin that goes to the mosfet to Pin 11 for PWM, tho i haven't gotten fading to work with a Buck, and the 2 sensors to non PWM pins. it's arbitrary. you can do what you want. also some people put a 1kohm resistor from pin 1 to pin 3 of the MOSFET to crash the PWM signal to 0 (Ground) for Digital (HIGH/LOW) mosfet switching, you do not need it.
I'm still a bit confused why a buck is needed for LED control...? I thought a MOSFET and a PWM capable signal is the complete stuff you need for it...