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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber (Read 408346 times) previous topic - next topic

billpealer

#525
Jan 22, 2016, 04:15 am Last Edit: Jan 22, 2016, 05:59 am by billpealer
TIE Sled with speaker holder and battery holder:

30.5mm OD for TCSS hilts.
Uses a 2x 14500 7.4v battery holder that can double as a FET and small bits Chassis.
28mm 8ohm 2w bass speaker (rail master)
The MCU Sled will accommodate 5cm of control devices. like a WT 28p USB on the deep side (1.7cm deep) and a nano with NO headers on the shallow side (1cm deep).  If you need button clearance, the deep side will fit JUST under a short 16mm switch that has been properly spaced with an activation box, and even lengthened on the shallow side so the arduino and WT will fit on the shallow side in a line, ergo Canobi's PCB.  There is enough room in the gutters of the TIE fins to wrangle wires. uses 3.5 meters of filament.. about 75 cents.  if anyone wants to play with one or a variant, PM me. I understand there are saber smiths that use tubing,.. but what holds the speakers and batts?  they must be buying something for that.

I like stack-ability over an "all in a line' parts parade. It allows for both control devices to be easily accessed. And length real estate in a hilt i am finding is harder to come by than girth. bigger batts = better sabers. and over 12" of hilt is,. well-  Blasphemy. :)

If anyone has any suggestions or feedback, i am open.

Due to the 29.5 mm OD of the Speaker holder at one end and the 30.5mm OD of the TIE at the other, their is virtually no movement of the chassis, and unscrewing the hilt extension does not torque the parts.

I have 2 more versions in the kitchen. One for a single CR123A, and one for a Double in series.  I am finding that the 14500 2x pack will NOT fit in anything other than the TCSS large ID hilts.  It will not fit into ribbed extensions of 28.5mm ID, and is VERY tight in the smaller stylized extensions.

billpealer

this arrived at my door today.  it's an LDO not an Induction Based Buck.  i will push 4.8v nimh and 7.4 lith ion thru it, and report back on the multimeter's readings. 3.3v and 800ma is still spot on for star rebels.  you'd need 3 for a rebel tri right?  tri people?



http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5x5V-to-3-3V-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Buck-Module-AMS1117-LDO-800MA-CM8-/401048770812?hash=item5d605e98fc:g:VzkAAOSw3KFWfi4w

CrossRoads

That's a linear regulator board -  you can see the AMS1117 regulator on the back side picture. You put 800mA thru that and it's gonna overheat and go into thermal shutdown as it appears to have minimal, or no, heatsinking.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

billpealer

#528
Jan 22, 2016, 06:41 am Last Edit: Jan 22, 2016, 07:28 am by billpealer
Ho Lee dookie.
Now, i just read an interesting article that said PWM dimming in a Constant Current Buck/Boost LED driver is inversely proportional. and you CANT use a MOSFET. the buck itself has to have PWM on the chip. and PWM -0 is full volts /amps and the closer you get to 5v..  aka  pwm 255 it turns off.

that is from LuxDrive's product sheets.  the maker of the BuckPuck, and  this cheapie from ebay seems to 100% confirm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3W-5-35V-LED-Driver-700mA-PWM-Dimming-DC-to-DC-Step-down-Constant-Current-/251998350085?hash=item3aac45ab05:g:C~gAAOSwrklVgOCT

"Supports PWM dimming
High level turn off the output
Low level Open the output"

It also appears for the best PWM Buck PWM dimmers, 7.4v will only get you 3W 700ma.  5W 800ma units require 9v Vin and if you want to push 1000ma, you'll need to step up to 10W units and 11.1v lith. boooooo!   I am REALLY leaning toward What Protonerd also said,.. 1- 18650 Raw to a 3W LED, which i have tested and the LED pulls 3.4v and 800ma, no LDOs or Resistors.  just the Batts internal resistande dropping the batt's open voltage by about .5v

billpealer

#529
Jan 22, 2016, 06:42 am Last Edit: Jan 22, 2016, 07:06 am by billpealer
That's a linear regulator board -  you can see the AMS1117 regulator on the back side picture. You put 800mA thru that and it's gonna overheat and go into thermal shutdown as it appears to have minimal, or no, heatsinking.
yes that's right. LDOs are linear regulators.
i figured i'd cook one for the greater good.  i was meaning to make some ramen noodles anyway. I just read the Data sheet.  i don't know the CM8 version,. but all the other models clearly say 800ma is tolerated.  I emailed the vendor and they said 800ma is the max the unit will push, and is restricted.  I must admint 75% of the data sheet reads like klingon to me.  but the one thing i do understand is 165 degrees c, shuts off the thing. dude that's hot!  maybe the 7.4v liths will cook it.  but the 4.8 nimh may be perfect.

Jake-man, you use a 5v regulator from a 7.4 lith pack, ever melt it?  you don't go direct from the batts to the lights right? you pass thru the LDO?

Protonerd

TIE Sled with speaker holder and battery holder:

30.5mm OD for TCSS hilts.
Uses a 2x 14500 7.4v battery holder that can double as a FET and small bits Chassis.
28mm 8ohm 2w bass speaker (rail master)
The MCU Sled will accommodate 5cm of control devices. like a WT 28p USB on the deep side (1.7cm deep) and a nano with NO headers on the shallow side (1cm deep).  If you need button clearance, the deep side will fit JUST under a short 16mm switch that has been properly spaced with an activation box, and even lengthened on the shallow side so the arduino and WT will fit on the shallow side in a line, ergo Canobi's PCB.  There is enough room in the gutters of the TIE fins to wrangle wires. uses 3.5 meters of filament.. about 75 cents.  if anyone wants to play with one or a variant, PM me. I understand there are saber smiths that use tubing,.. but what holds the speakers and batts?  they must be buying something for that.

I like stack-ability over an "all in a line' parts parade. It allows for both control devices to be easily accessed. And length real estate in a hilt i am finding is harder to come by than girth. bigger batts = better sabers. and over 12" of hilt is,. well-  Blasphemy. :)

If anyone has any suggestions or feedback, i am open.

Due to the 29.5 mm OD of the Speaker holder at one end and the 30.5mm OD of the TIE at the other, their is virtually no movement of the chassis, and unscrewing the hilt extension does not torque the parts.

I have 2 more versions in the kitchen. One for a single CR123A, and one for a Double in series.  I am finding that the 14500 2x pack will NOT fit in anything other than the TCSS large ID hilts.  It will not fit into ribbed extensions of 28.5mm ID, and is VERY tight in the smaller stylized extensions.
OMG, that sled looks good! Congrats Sir! I've been dreaming about such a chassis since getting started with lightsabers. I wish I could do something similar...

Or (maybe I missed some earlier posts) do you intend to source the sled as a part of a complete package for the interconnect PCB based design? That would be an amazing offer.

JakeSoft

Jake-man, you use a 5v regulator from a 7.4 lith pack, ever melt it?  you don't go direct from the batts to the lights right? you pass thru the LDO?
I do, but the LDO does get pretty darn hot. I use a TO-220 style LDO and it heats up to the point where you'll burn you fingers pretty quickly if you touch the metal tab on it. I have to leave it a lot of space and be careful that it's not touching anything. I've been running the Mk. II like that for years and it hasn't blown up yet. Still, it does require a great deal of care.

billpealer

#532
Jan 22, 2016, 06:03 pm Last Edit: Jan 22, 2016, 07:37 pm by billpealer
OMG, that sled looks good! Congrats Sir! I've been dreaming about such a chassis since getting started with lightsabers. I wish I could do something similar...

Or (maybe I missed some earlier posts) do you intend to source the sled as a part of a complete package for the interconnect PCB based design? That would be an amazing offer.
er.. i don't know what "source it" means,..  but..
PM me your specs and battery prefs. i'll send you a couple.  it is very easily scale-able at this point.
I have been meaning to make one for a 3 or 4x AAA batt holder.  someone have need?

JakeSoft

er.. i don't know what "source it" means,..  but..
PM me your specs and battery prefs. i'll send you a couple.  it is very easily scale-able at this point.
I have been meaning to make one for a 3 or 4x AAA batt holder.  someone have need?
I think he's asking if you intend to package your sled system with Canobi's PCB for a programmable drop-in solution. That would be a pretty cool and unique offering.

billpealer

I think he's asking if you intend to package your sled system with Canobi's PCB for a programmable drop-in solution. That would be a pretty cool and unique offering.
never thought about it. I could. easily.  no one is really talking batts and canobi's platform. big picture, that needs to be hashed out.  or you could have 4 versions, a PVC version, a sink tube, and 2 TCSS versions.  I already have 2 TCSS versions because there are 2 TCSS IDs in play.  1- main parts and extensions, 30.5mm ID, and 2- ribbed, v grooved and other stylized parts with 28.1 mm ID.   those 2 versions alone require completely different battery strategies.   this would be very much simplified if there was a 3.7v only approach.  It would be the 18650 or CR123A batts, or even a small LIPO, and Rebel Star or Tri Rebel LEDs only.  so that no LED Vf of over 3.35v is required. and a simple 5v buck up would power the MCU and Sound Modules.  ProtoNerd style.

JakeSoft

never thought about it. I could. easily.  no one is really talking batts and canobi's platform. big picture, that needs to be hashed out.  or you could have 4 versions, a PVC version, a sink tube, and 2 TCSS versions.  ...   this would be very much simplified if there was a 3.7v only approach.  It would be the 18650 or CR123A batts, or even a small LIPO, and Rebel Star or Tri Rebel LEDs only.  so that no LED Vf of over 3.35v is required. and a simple 5v buck up would power the MCU and Sound Modules.  ProtoNerd style.
I agree that there needs to be a base-case; a "standard" that we can work on collaterally. Otherwise, it's anarchy. Probably 3.7V 18650 and standard MHS parts is a good starting point (ID = 1.25 inches). Do you think Canobi's PCB will fit over top of an 18650 in 1.25? It's a long-ish card and being able to stack it on top of something is really kind of a requirement to avoid obnoxiously long hilts.

Question:
How are you anchoring the PCB so it won't slide around on the chassis? 

billpealer

How are you anchoring the PCB so it won't slide around on the chassis? 
not there yet.  i have 2 plans.  3M velcro or good Old epoxy. i probably could put snap tabs in the model, so things would "snap fit. in. or slide lock.   adding a modeled snap tab would only work if there was,. one ring to rule them all...  i will let you know about the 18650 and ID  and TCSS has 2 IDs...  as i emailed them to confirm. 1.25 for main hilts and extensions.  1.125" for all other accessories. V groove, ribbed, gears,..  and my tests confirmed.

Canobi

PCB over CR123A cell in a 1.25" ID tube:


billpealer

#538
Jan 23, 2016, 12:56 am Last Edit: Jan 23, 2016, 01:03 am by billpealer
so a 18650 will be too big. actually.  any batt will be too big to stack or piggy back on this. they don't make single cr123a wired tabbed bat packs

DJWing79

when I did the 3d print for hilt parts, I used an inner diameter of 1.3 and things barely cleared with electronics and the 18650.

On another note, I printed the hilt pieces again, but oriented the print for them to be on their side and they warped on the bottom (grr)....but am going to try and up the density of the screw portion (the nut portion held fine) since the entirety of the inner diameter doesn't need to be super open, just the part where the sled goes in. I am now attempting 1.5" x12 ANSI screw threads with a wall thickness (of the screw part) at .6" and having it "anchor" further down into it's housing by a good .3". will print tonight and test tomorrow. I didn't take pics because they were garbage after. But I will before and after test this time. I also have another mockup ready to test if this fails which forgoes the screws and slides together and is held in place with retaining bolts. may not be cosmetically what I want (but I can always include it as a design "feature") but may be able to hold up better. wish me luck!

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