That's a linear regulator board - you can see the AMS1117 regulator on the back side picture. You put 800mA thru that and it's gonna overheat and go into thermal shutdown as it appears to have minimal, or no, heatsinking.
TIE Sled with speaker holder and battery holder:30.5mm OD for TCSS hilts.Uses a 2x 14500 7.4v battery holder that can double as a FET and small bits Chassis.28mm 8ohm 2w bass speaker (rail master)The MCU Sled will accommodate 5cm of control devices. like a WT 28p USB on the deep side (1.7cm deep) and a nano with NO headers on the shallow side (1cm deep). If you need button clearance, the deep side will fit JUST under a short 16mm switch that has been properly spaced with an activation box, and even lengthened on the shallow side so the arduino and WT will fit on the shallow side in a line, ergo Canobi's PCB. There is enough room in the gutters of the TIE fins to wrangle wires. uses 3.5 meters of filament.. about 75 cents. if anyone wants to play with one or a variant, PM me. I understand there are saber smiths that use tubing,.. but what holds the speakers and batts? they must be buying something for that.I like stack-ability over an "all in a line' parts parade. It allows for both control devices to be easily accessed. And length real estate in a hilt i am finding is harder to come by than girth. bigger batts = better sabers. and over 12" of hilt is,. well- Blasphemy. If anyone has any suggestions or feedback, i am open.Due to the 29.5 mm OD of the Speaker holder at one end and the 30.5mm OD of the TIE at the other, their is virtually no movement of the chassis, and unscrewing the hilt extension does not torque the parts. I have 2 more versions in the kitchen. One for a single CR123A, and one for a Double in series. I am finding that the 14500 2x pack will NOT fit in anything other than the TCSS large ID hilts. It will not fit into ribbed extensions of 28.5mm ID, and is VERY tight in the smaller stylized extensions.
Jake-man, you use a 5v regulator from a 7.4 lith pack, ever melt it? you don't go direct from the batts to the lights right? you pass thru the LDO?
OMG, that sled looks good! Congrats Sir! I've been dreaming about such a chassis since getting started with lightsabers. I wish I could do something similar...Or (maybe I missed some earlier posts) do you intend to source the sled as a part of a complete package for the interconnect PCB based design? That would be an amazing offer.
er.. i don't know what "source it" means,.. but..PM me your specs and battery prefs. i'll send you a couple. it is very easily scale-able at this point.I have been meaning to make one for a 3 or 4x AAA batt holder. someone have need?
I think he's asking if you intend to package your sled system with Canobi's PCB for a programmable drop-in solution. That would be a pretty cool and unique offering.
never thought about it. I could. easily. no one is really talking batts and canobi's platform. big picture, that needs to be hashed out. or you could have 4 versions, a PVC version, a sink tube, and 2 TCSS versions. ... this would be very much simplified if there was a 3.7v only approach. It would be the 18650 or CR123A batts, or even a small LIPO, and Rebel Star or Tri Rebel LEDs only. so that no LED Vf of over 3.35v is required. and a simple 5v buck up would power the MCU and Sound Modules. ProtoNerd style.
How are you anchoring the PCB so it won't slide around on the chassis?