Found out what the issue was.The sound files I was trying to convert were mono so I switched to a set of stereo files and it worked a treat.
Oh? that is a bit weird then.Quick question regarding the hum. I know some have layered it onto the clash/swing sounds.The hum I have is nearly 30 seconds long so it'll need trimming down but not sure what the optimum duration for the trick to work is (if there is one), or if length is just down to memory size.
I would not suggest those, the highest 18650 capacity is 3400mah from phillip NCR cells that are pretty expensive. Those are probably some 14500 cells inside a 18650 body with a usb lipo charger, probably a 900mah actuall capacity.
Thanks splinter and bill for the feedback. The form and charging with USB sure makes it interesting, but what you write makes sense, probably they cannot squeeze the same capacity in and still include an USB connector. Everything comes with a price. I was just happy to happen upon this ad due to the conversation we had about USB charging of the battery cell.
So I'm making progress finally. One line with the WT, working on merging the MPU 6050 code into the design.. but I have what's probably a dumb question:How the heck do you make a menu work for this? like?? I've been racking my brain.. and I just can't seem to get it.
I think I might have bought the wrong MOSFETs? Or I'm an idiot and I've wired it completely wrong.https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=812236&storeId=10001&krypto=vFgRhKXJZKuM8sLfuPRmxv3tw%2BNp1UpMnGU4ddvL3I4WFZKPJQdG6Q%3D%3D&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownViewI plug them in and run JakeSoft's sample uSaber code, and it will dim the LED slightly, but it won't turn off. I made sure it's on a PWM pin and everything. (Mild frustration)EDIT: I'm an idiot. Had it backwards as a mo'suckrah.
Glad you got it sorted. Also glad to hear somebody making good use of the USaber library.
I've got a question. I need to step down my 7.2v 1200mah cells to power the wt588d and the LEDs (still with appropriate resistors). I bought a 5v 1a regulator when I bought my mosfets. But I'm a little scared to wire it in because I don't want to blow the regulator. I know I need capacitors (to take out noise?) to go with the regulator... But can I even use that regulator with this? I'd rather blow the regulator than the LED chip or the wt588d, but if I can avoid it all together I'd like to. Reason I'm not using a single 3.6v cell is that the wt588d and the pro micro I'm using are both 5v. Hoping I haven't sabotaged myself with these cells.(Actually, thinking about it... Has anyone ever used a separate standalone battery to power just the LEDs?)
Unless your hilt is huge, you'll want to avoid trying to add a second power supply. Fitting one battery pack is hard enough. If you are using a WT588D-U (the big one with the USB built in) then you can just power your WT588D off the 5V regulator at the VDD pin. 1A should be plenty. Everything else can get direct battery power, I think. The Pro micro has an on-board regulator, so just power it via the RAW pin by hooking your battery directly up to it. Check your specs, but I'm pretty sure it can take the 8.4V your fully charged pack will have. Use an appropriate resistor for your LED and you can power that directly off the battery as well. That should avoid blowing anything up.
JakeSoft... You're a godsend. I keep overthinking it. That makes much more sense. I'll play around with it.