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Topic: Intervalometer Code (and design!) Submitted for Peer Review (Read 8357 times) previous topic - next topic

nschoonover

Hi everyone!
I was inspired by some users here to create an intervalometer for my Canon T3i. I have yet to obtain the proper interface cable (3/32" stereo plug), but I did simulate the digital output to the shutter pin using an LED. I will post the schematics soon, but before I do I wanted to fine-tune the code as much as possible.

I am admittedly a newbie with Arduino programming, but I have a strong DIY background with many other languages, so this one wasn't difficult to pick up.

I wanted to make a super simple interface using my 16x2 LCD, a cheap rotary encoder, and a simple push button. I also tossed in an LED, a few resistors, and capacitors and I think I have a working prototype.

I would greatly appreciate it if someone would just give my code the once-over. Let me know if I missed anything major, made any mistakes, or committed any programming taboos. I wrote this from scratch, using only the built-in example codes for the LCD, rotary encoder, and push button. The rest of the code is my best guess at how to approach an intervalometer.

I think my approach is made simpler by the fact that I only care about opening and closing the shutter, and not about focusing. I think this means I can get away with using only the shutter and ground pins, and ignoring the focus pin.

My code is attached. I will update it as I get closer to a final solution, and I will be sure to post the entire build once I am done.


Thanks for your time!
Nate

AWOL

Quote
I have yet to obtain the proper interface cable (3/32" stereo plug),
You may have better luck with the correct designation "2.5mm"

nschoonover

From what I have seen the same plug is labeled both ways depending on the vendor.
Thanks for the heads-up! :)

nschoonover

For some reason, clickState is being set to 6 every loop cycle. I can't tell why. Any ideas?

clickState is initialized at 0, and incremented for each time the rotary encoder wheel switch is clicked.

It should not increment unless the switch is clicked.

nschoonover

Scratch that. The code is close but still a little buggy. I am also tweaking some debouncing issues with the rotary encoder and switch. I will post back when I have cleaner code, but I welcome any advice on the existing version!

nschoonover

Happy New Years All!
I am happy to report that I have a working prototype and I am now looking for a suitable enclosure! :)

I sketched it up in Fritzing the best that I could. I had to fake the KY040 rotary encoder with another 5 pin encoder, but it is clear enough for the diagram. All the other parts were easy to find in the standard Fritzing library.

Now that the demo is complete, please feel free to whip it up and load the code and let me know what you think!

This is a barely working prototype. I need to fine tune a lot of things. Where do I start?
Thanks again for your time and expertise!
Nate

nschoonover

Parts Used
  • Arduino Uno (Rev3)
  • LCD screen 16x2
  • Rotary Encoder w/ switch
  • Pushbutton
  • Ceramic Capacitor .22uF
  • Ceramic Capacitor .22uF
  • Trimmer Potentiometer 10kΩ
  • 330Ω Resistor
  • 10kΩ Resistor
  • Red (633nm) LED (shutter simulate)


nschoonover

Slight modification. I replaced the 330K resistor to the shutter pin with a transistor. This works much better!

nschoonover


KenF

Are you familiar with the Magic Lantern Project?  I think you'll find that you can achieve everything you want with that, without any extra hardware (except an SD card).

It was actually a spin off from the film industry and offers more features than you can shake a stick at.  Even if you still opt to go with the arduino, I think you'll find that magic lantern will offer you more control than you'd have believed possible.

nschoonover

Hi Ken,
I was not familiar with that project. It sounds awesome, thanks for sharing! I may attempt this if I get a backup camera in the future.

For now I want to focus on learning how to build, code and use my new Uno. I was hoping for some feedback on my code and hardware choices.

I am not an electrical engineer, and the parts I have chosen are based on tidbits of other projects. I would like to make sure my resistor and capacitor values are correct, and that I am not missing any key safety components.

Also, is there a way to estimate how long my device will run on a specific battery? (9v, AA, AAA, etc.)

Thanks for your feedback! :)
Nate


(I just ordered a host of new components, including an LCD backpack to help simplify the wiring diagram. I am also getting a new enclosure! I will post back once I have upgraded the build.)

KenF

I'm not too sure about your transistor switching arrangement.  I believe that the canon uses 3.3v logic so needs to be protected from the arduinos 5v.  Also there should be a current limiting resistor on the feed to that base transistor.  Otherwise, you can potentially damage the arduino.

Here's my suggestion for the interface to the camera shutter input.  The diode does the job of protecting the camera from the arduino and the resistor (probably redundant here) is to protect the arduino from having too much current drawn from it's I/O pin.

BTW in this configuration the output from the arduino will be active LOW (ie digitalWrite(10, LOW) will activate the shutter.

nschoonover

Thanks Ken! That is a great point! I hope I don't (or didn't) damage my camera, as I have been running some test time lapse shots with the recent snowfall. I can see a few ares for improving the battery life. Namely, switching the LCD display backlight off when we start exposing. A brand new 9V is already showing signs of being dead after about 2 hours of shooting. Granted, it is freezing cold out. If I had a hand warmer, the battery might be doing a little better.

So any particular type of diode?

Thanks again!
Nate

nschoonover

there should be a current limiting resistor on the feed to that base transistor.
do you suggest keeping my transistor in place along with your diode/resistor arrangement?

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