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Topic: Arduino Lightsaber for/with LED string blade (Read 182492 times) previous topic - next topic

Mattleshman

I have the same problem wiring a single RGB Star LED. There's no schematics that works for me yet.

I test the LightSaberOS 1.4 and works sound and accelerometer. But LED don't turn on.

I don't understand yet how to connect LED to pins to MOSFET and which one MOSFET is the best for my 3w RGB LED.

DJWing79

If anyone is willing to try to modify the LSOS code for the 2 SoftwareSerial connections and include the Pixie library, I'd be very grateful. They look like an easy replacement for HP-LEDs with no need for N-FETs or resistors.

SkyWolker

If anyone is willing to try to modify the LSOS code for the 2 SoftwareSerial connections and include the Pixie library, I'd be very grateful. They look like an easy replacement for HP-LEDs with no need for N-FETs or resistors.
But in LOSS there is already a code for Pixels. You just need to select it in the settings. In the description for github.com everything is there.

Protonerd

If anyone is willing to try to modify the LSOS code for the 2 SoftwareSerial connections and include the Pixie library, I'd be very grateful. They look like an easy replacement for HP-LEDs with no need for N-FETs or resistors.
I might give it a try, I'm thinking about installing one at the base of the blade and one at the tip facing each other to have an more even lighting. Problem is, it seems they can be ordered only from the Adafruit website (US), with all that implies for Europian customers...

Damien, if you buy me 2 pcs and send them to me as gift I will pay for them and try out. How does that sound?

SkyWolker

Hello! I have a problem .. my sound module refuses to work ..

Here's a video. on the first work with a standard library.
On the second with LSOS.
Sometimes the module plays a sound, but does not respond to movements. and the buttons behave strangely. Everything connected according to the scheme in Readme.

https://youtu.be/9evUSPzsogs- on the first work with a standard library

https://youtu.be/DcUurRfH-rk- on the first work with a standard library

https://youtu.be/XymXAmOg8zo-LSOS

https://youtu.be/G3sggHCqvR0-LSOS

Justicezz


Hello, the blade does not change the color in the settings, what could be the problem?
I use LSOS1.5
https://youtu.be/3YWQcZkM9A4

Protonerd

Hello, the blade does not change the color in the settings, what could be the problem?
I use LSOS1.5
https://youtu.be/3YWQcZkM9A4
Look here:
https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Gravity-Color

And use FX-SaberOS.

notabadguy

Hello!
I want to make a lightsaber for my son, but I have problems
I use:
arduino uno ATmega328P-PU 16mHz
or
arduino Pro Mini  ATmega328P-AU
ledstring   30 pieces
arduino IDE 1.8.4
LightSaberOS-LSOS-1.5_GravityColorBlend
or
LightSaberOS-master
I do everything according to the instructions:
in Config.h I make the following changes :
1) //#define BATTERY_CHECK // comment to disable - disable BATTERY CHECK
2) //#define LEDSTRINGS
   //#define STAR_LED
   #define PIXELBLADE   // choose WS2812B
3) #define CROSSGUARDSABER  // i.e. Kylo Ren saber - in fact, I chose any of them
4) #define NUMPIXELS 30 // 30 pieces WS2812B
5) #define DATA_PIN 13 // D13 - I tried to assign a different pin
6) //#define DIYINO_PRIME
   //#define DIYINO_STARTDUST
   #define ARDUINO_HOMEBREW  // as I understand the two coming for a special board all in one
7) //#define SOFT_ACCENT // changing the pin number tried to include this parameter (if enabled -
                                            compilation error)
that I have in the end:
after the firmware nothing happens, there is no reaction to the button press, the LEDs do not catch fire ... I repeat that I tried to change the assigned pin, I also checked the modules included in the libraries (WS2812.h , OneButton.h)  with examples of them! all the individual parts work properly:  arduino, button and WS2812b...
at this moment DATA_PIN  WS2812B connected to pin 13 arduino uno , button connected to pin 12 and GND
I'm not a programmer, but in electronics I understand very well, I ask for help!
just at the moment I did not connect the MPU6050 and the player, I hope it's not critical

jbkuma

How are you connecting the power for the pixels? The board will not be able able to power even 30 directly, it must be powered from the battery or power source directly with a common ground.

That being said, the initialization is probably failing because the the DFplayer isn't attached.  Open a serial monitor and see what it says.

notabadguy

in fact for the test I use only 8 LEDs, DFplayer
and the MPU6050 uses the I2 bus and I'm afraid that the controller can poll the device .. ok I'll look in the serial monitor

notabadguy

that's it! Thank you!!! help please properly turn off the player until it is delivered
L03⸮⸮ ?? ⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮⸮ ???????????????????????????????????? Extraterrestrial
Connecting to DFPlayer ...

lakron

#701
Dec 25, 2017, 10:16 pm Last Edit: Dec 26, 2017, 04:49 pm by lakron
Hello. I've downloaded FX-SaberOS from github master branch. I have arduino ide v1.6.7.
I have some errors during compiling Cannot convert int to enum type,  cannot convert 'cRGB' to 'uint8_t*. What ide do you use?
Edit - with Arduino IDE 1.8.5 ok. Only if not defined BATTERY_CHECK, there are errors in BATTERY CHECKING FUNCTIONS, added #ifdef BATTERY_CHECK.

NobAkimoto

So one thing that I've found to be a bit of a pain is the fact that it appears almost every commercially available DFPlayer Mini comes with pre-soldered headers.

Does anyone know of a DFPlayer Mini supplier that doesn't pre-solder the headers in place?

Protonerd

So one thing that I've found to be a bit of a pain is the fact that it appears almost every commercially available DFPlayer Mini comes with pre-soldered headers.

Does anyone know of a DFPlayer Mini supplier that doesn't pre-solder the headers in place?
I only know the DIYino boards which come wo/header <evil grin>. Of course you get much more than a DFPlayer mini...

Joke aside, no, I only know the ones with the pre-soldered headers. But you can easily unsolder them, just make sure you remove the plastic band holding the header pins together. Afterwards it's just pull-and-throw.

NobAkimoto

I mean...if you have more boards to sell... *Ahem* (In all honesty, when factoring in things like size and just labor of setting things up, DIYinos are quite a bargain)

The hassle isn't a dealbreaker when making budget test rigs or things I want to test a little more...extremely than I would with a DIYino, but I was hoping someone, somewhere had found a source without the headers.

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