I can't see leds when it's lightening, pretty sweet
Hi!I want to make a LED-stripe Lightsaber too, and so I try to collect as much information as possible.So, here is my question: Do you have two stripes back-to-back or three stripes in a triangle in the tube? Do you have a picture of the stripes without the tube?greetings, Robert
I simply love this idea, I think I'm going to order that LED string preatty soon myself. I've been keeping a lookaout for such a string for quite a long time now, this one you picked sounds like the best one by far.I red in the description that each LED can be controlled individually. How is that done? How many signals you you need for that? Would an Arduino Nano be capable of handling the complexity?
Hi!There is a realy great library, if you want to use an easy code on your Arduino: FastLEDI use this library for my projects and its realy easy to control hundreds of LEDs in one string.
I came across that library, but the protocol is so simple i decided to just do my own implementation . It also gives me greater flexibility in multitasking on the microcontroller while sending data to the leds.the only hard thing about the protocol is the timing of the 0/1 bit, but it isn't that hard to solve .I used the following article as a basis of how i should handle the timing, and that made it very easy to both play sound & control the leds at the same time: Neopixel timing
You picked my curiosity, I quickly ordered my string, with 60 LEDs/m (WS2812B). It's amazing, I used the link you've sent for the low level control algorithm and I could come up with ignition/retraction in no time! I also used the more complex library for the delight of my kids.It really might become the string of choice for LED string sabers. As I see now:PROS:- RGB (Just Great!)- the control algorithm is awful fast! You can reprogram 100+ LEDs controlling 3 colors in what feels like no time!- there is no need for power transistors to drive the LEDs- it's specified for 5V, but I tried, connecting the shift register to Arduino digital output you can go down as low as 2.2V with the supply of the string. Of course that low only RED will come out nice. But with 3.7V all 3 LED types reach their highest brightness, which is a boon since most sabers use 3.7V rechargable batteries.- I haven't tried to combat with it, but the strings look pretty durable.CONS:- even though there is only ~1cm of gap between the LEDs, they face outwards, I tried with every method to diffuse it available to me (and I have my nice collection of LED string sabers, all self-made), but I still see the individual LEDs. But I have some ideas I still want to try. I think wrapping too many layers will impact the brightness, I will try to glue a reflecting material inbetween the LEDs, so that the refrected light gets reflected back from the gaps between the LEDs.- that 5V. Well not exactly a CON, but I was wondering how a RED having ~2V of threshold can withstand 5V. So I tried with a bench power supply. Appearently they have put in protection diodes, which will simply open up if the LEDs are subjected to too much voltage, i.e. if you go up to 5V really, most of the power will go through not the LEDs but the protection circuits. You can see quite well that for instance a standalone blue light at 4V consumes around 20-30mA/LED, but if you go above it (which is approximately the Vmax of the blue LEDs), the current will increase exponentially but the brightness does not. So keep the voltage down to below 4V at best.
Hi di you have a problem with the voltage drop in the led strip?I'm doing the same thing with 144led/M strip and with powering only one side it drops at least 2V, I'll test powering both sides