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Topic: Thicker wire for arduino (Read 3471 times) previous topic - next topic

Smiles79

Hello,

I am trying to make my project more permanent, and the tiny jumper wires that come with the arduino are not suitable for what I'm trying to do. I want something thicker (ideally around 16-18 awg) but it needs to be able to plug into the arduino headers. Can I get ends that will fit into the arduino to crimp onto my wire? If so, what exactly should I be looking for?

Thanks,

Riley

codlink

//LiNK

septillion

Or even better, learn to solder ;)
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Wawa

I am trying to make my project more permanent, and the tiny jumper wires that come with the arduino are not suitable for what I'm trying to do.
?
How much current do you want to draw.
Those tiny wires can handle more current than any Arduino pin can provide.

Google "screw shield", or "Crossroads screw shield".
Leo..

larryd

Yes to Crossroads screw shield!



16-18 AWG are not reasonable, too large.

DuPont pins are not designed for larger than 22AWG WIRE.
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raschemmel

#5
Feb 17, 2016, 11:06 pm Last Edit: Feb 17, 2016, 11:12 pm by raschemmel
I have one of Crossroads screw shields and it the best investment you can make for an UNO r3.

Crossroads Fencing
Arduino UNOs, Pro-Minis, ATMega328, ATtiny85, LCDs, MCP4162, keypads,<br />DS18B20s,74c922,nRF24L01, RS232, SD card, RC fixed wing, quadcopter

DrAzzy

With the exception of power and ground, there is no pin on the Arduino that can require current that exceeds what can be handled by those ubiquitous cheapo jumper cables. Those pins are connected directly to the pins on the Arduino, and are recommended to source or sink no more than 20mA, 40mA absolute maximum - which the jumper cables can handle no problem.

If you need to handle higher current you need an external switch (typically a MOSFET), and you'd only need to make the other two wires going to the switch thicker.


The connectors that work are called Du Pont 0.1" connectors. They're very common. You can crimp them yourself, with a crimp tool, but it's very unpleasant (though better than it was before someone posted a guide in the electronics section). IME, male connectors going into female header doesn't work well, doesn't make good contact - you get a much better connection with male pin header and female jumpers, and from male pin header and female pinheader.
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larryd

Quote
male connectors going into female header doesn't work well, doesn't make good contact -
Agreed.
Not for continual insertions.
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If you are asked a question, please respond with an answer.
If you are asked for more information, please supply it.
If you need clarification, ask for help.

aarg

In my experience, the round male pins on those jumper wires are too narrow to be reliable when placed in the stacking header sockets. They do work fine in a solderless breadboard. I use them all the time for testing, but when it comes to making something permanent, I ensure that there are male header pins for what I need, and then put female to female jumpers on those (because most modules also have header pins). I've had much better luck with that, and the cost is the same or less.
  ... with a transistor and a large sum of money to spend ...
Please don't PM me with technical questions. Post them in the forum.

raschemmel

#9
Feb 18, 2016, 01:53 am Last Edit: Feb 18, 2016, 02:00 am by raschemmel
That's because the male header pins that all shields have are a larger diameter than the male jumpers because male headers are not designed to plug into breadboards but will still fit. Jumpers are designed specifically for breadbosrds. The best solution is male to male headers plugged into the stackable headers and female to male jumpers from the male header to the breadboard.
Arduino UNOs, Pro-Minis, ATMega328, ATtiny85, LCDs, MCP4162, keypads,<br />DS18B20s,74c922,nRF24L01, RS232, SD card, RC fixed wing, quadcopter

Paul__B

Or even better - if you want to use a breadboard, use a Nano.

MarkT

Use 0.6mm _single-strand_ wire for high current connections, or the sort of pre-made
cable with genuine dupont connector pins on ribbon cable.  The cheap and nasty wires
you can get are not for high current.  Single strand wire isn't flexible but can be used
direct into the female headers.

Don't use anything fatter than 0.6mm (AWG 22) or you'll stretch the socket forks and it'll become
unreliable.  Solid core 0.6mm wire will take 5A without serious heating issues, the connectors
are only rated for 1 or 2A max.
[ I will NOT respond to personal messages, I WILL delete them, use the forum please ]

Smiles79

Thanks for all of the replies!

I should have specified, but I'll be using an Arduino Nano because of my space constraints. This means that a screw shield won't work.

I'm not looking for thicker wire because of current draw, mainly because it seemed easier to work with and more readily available (these may be total misconceptions). I did however find these screw terminals that can be inserted into a breadboard, and I think that will be the ticket for me. The 0.1" Du Pont connectors may come in handy as well.

Thanks again!

septillion

Those screw terminals into a breadboard isn't going to be easy nor rugged.

Maybe this is something you can use?
Use fricking code tags!!!!
I want x => I would like x, I need help => I would like help, Need fast => Go and pay someone to do the job...

NEW Library to make fading leds a piece of cake
https://github.com/septillion-git/FadeLed

CrossRoads

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

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