Sorry it's taken a while to get back with you, Proto. I did some more reading of your manual and have had some success. The board that I could program is fully working now and I have it in a saber! Woo! The second one did eventually get recognized by the computer, but it's hit and miss. Usually it behaves as I described, but every once in a while it will fire up. I think there's still hope for it, but I'll mess with it more after the holidays. Thanks again for the response and the awesome work you've done. I do have one question tho: Once the board goes into the sleep mode, is there any way of waking it using the activation button? I've been just pulling the battery to reset the board to get it to wake up. I suppose I could wire in a button on the reset pin. Let me know. Thanks!
A quick question, if I use the usb breakout do I need to short the wires for file upload? If the short is required to use usb flash what is the cleanest way recommended to do this? I'd rather not have to keep bridging and unbridging, I guess I could get a small switch that could be used.
Hey there! I'm totally new to this whole world of DIY electronics and I'm super excited to build my first lightsaber! I've had a lot of positive feedback from my stream and YT viewers on this, and I had no idea there was such a big community for this stuff!Admittedly I have only been researching building a lightsaber for the last 5 days, but I feel like I have some idea of how to go about it. The DIYino seems to be the way to go, since similar boards are quite expensive, and using many arduino components seems like a recipe for disaster introducing multiple points of failure for an amateur like me.I have some experience with HEMA and was surprised to find that some sabers can be used for actual sparring. The ultraedge heavy duelling blade from UltraSabers looks like the right kind of blade for me, but I was wondering if the electronic components are designed to take that much punishment? I know you're not normally trying to strike the hilt, but with the sparring I do it's quite likely. I was planning on using some salvaged galvanised steel pipe with a leather wrap grip, and definitely a lot of padding on the inside.Since it will likely take a beating, having less points of failure seems like a necessity. As far as I can tell, most of the images that Protonerd has uploaded on this thread are blocked from being shared outside of photobucket, and on photobucket's website itself the image is still unviewable to me for some reason, so I haven't been able to get a good closeup look at the prime or stardust boards. In either case, I may have put the cart before the horse by already having purchased the LED (single LED projected up the blade since the hilt will likely sit behind me as a prop when I stream). The LED I purchased was the SK6812, which seems to use a higher voltage than what a single Li-ion battery can output, and I can't tell if the stardust (looking far more appealing to me) can take the voltage of 2 batteries. Granted, I have almost no clue what I'm doing when it comes to all this, but would I even need 2 batteries? Would I need a buckpuck? (I have no idea what those do either)Since I'm a PC tech guy rather than hobbyist, I'm well aware that type-c USB tends to be a lot more durable than microUSB, but it was good to see the earlier post about it as well. If I went with the stardust, I would be wanting to connect a short cable from the board to a type-c connector as the external plug. Is this even possible? (It's probably quite obvious to those who can see the board, but as I mentioned, I cannot view the images for whatever reason)P.S Sorry everyone for the extremely long rant, I just wanted to get all of it out there at once. And to Protonerd - if I can get all this to work out, you may have quite a few extra orders coming in from my viewers
Thanks for the pictures! Any reason why there are three different colours? I assume the functionality is the same.Grand plans? I await with great anticipation!If they run fine off a single 3.7V, that's great news! But I would love to have a lightsaber which can go long intervals before needing to charge. How long would you expect a single battery to last? Most likely I could be using the sabre for practice for a period of up to 2 hours. I'm happy to try cramming more cells in the chassis if it means longer runtime.I did not mention mini-USB at all. As far as I know, mini-USB is a dead interface type. Having looked further into what 'breakout' means, USB-C is not feasible (seems to have upwards of 10 'pins') and I will probably use a breakout board for a micro-USB connector.
Haha yeah, mini USB isn't that big of a deal for me. I'll be using a short internal extension regardless and I can just switch the plug type, so not a problem.I still don't understand about the batteries. I would love to use 2x 18650s if I can fir them, but would there be an issue charging them if they are connected to your board in parallel?I suspected that board colour was arbitrary, but it's good to have it confirmed.
Absolutely excited about this board. I am now glad that I haven't had the funds to buy a stardust as this is the board that ticks all the boxes for me. Well done Protonerd. As for ordering, I see the boards are available for pre-order. Is there an approximate instock or available timeframe for them. I am guessing you will want to test them all before shipment so I'm planning my building around availability. Thanks again for everything you have done for aduino sabers.