How do you do it ?
Tinned components wet OK since solder is mainly tin.
Crappy non-temperature controlled iron that gets too hot, and cools down when being heavily used. You need at least a basic temp-controlled iron.
What was your issue? Were you trying to solder the parts without a piece of prototyping board or anything? Small pieces of generic prototyping board are pretty much a must for prototyping. Different people have different favorite types of prototyping board - I like this stuff (I have it made, and sell it): I sell these on Tindie - I have smaller ones tooSimilar products are available from other vendors, in a few different varieties - Some have strips of copper running the length of the board connected, and you're expected to cut that trace as needed, some have no connections between the holes (like the green stuff from ebay) , and some are like the ones I showed above.In terms of technique and equipment, I think the most common issues are:* Crappy non-temperature controlled iron that gets too hot, and cools down when being heavily used. You need at least a basic temp-controlled iron. * Not knowing that solder won't wet the wire/metal well unless you melt the solder for the first time right on the wire - that "rosin core" of the solder (also what makes the smoke when you melt solder) cleans up the surface so the solder can form a good bond. (flux - the kind designed for electronics, not pipes - can be used, and is very useful for SMD parts, but not normally necessary)* Using lead-free solder. It's crap, get the tin-lead stuff, it's much, much easier to work with. Don't eat it
I used a prototyping board, but not like yours.Where can I buy the prototyping that looks like a breadboard, it looks extremely useful for connecting H-bridge, shift registers ...