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Topic: Help with pro mini (Read 2366 times) previous topic - next topic

lifeofbrian

Can't seem to upload a sketch?

When I plug in the USB a red light comes on the FT232RL FTDI programming board and two green lights flash on the Pro Mini.

Under ports (COM & LPT) it appears as "USB Serial port (COM6)"

I am using an Arduino Pro Mini Atmega328P 5V 16MHz and a FTDI FT232RL USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 5V and 3.3V, set at 5v.
I am using Ardiuno IDE 1.6.9
I am using drivers "CDM21216" for the FT232RL FTDI programming board, and I got two green ticks after install.





error:

Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 8.1), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 1,066 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.
Global variables use 9 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2,039 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
Problem uploading to board.  See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

couka

#1
Jun 06, 2016, 11:17 pm Last Edit: Jun 06, 2016, 11:27 pm by couka
Please provide a link to where you bought the FTDI stick, a wiring diagram between the stick and the arduino and put your error log in [­code][­/code] tags.

lg, couka
youtube.com/DieBastler1234
Don't send me technical questions via PM. They will be deleted unanswered.

DrAzzy

#2
Jun 07, 2016, 12:13 am Last Edit: Jun 07, 2016, 12:14 am by DrAzzy
Try telling the IDE that it's one of the other Arduino boards that has a '328p - the Uno and Nano...

Each board has a different bootloader on it, but the chips are identical, and it's not unheardof for clones to ship with the wrong bootloader (often Optiboot, the Uno bootloader - which happens to be strictly better). In these cases, while you can reburn the "right" bootloader, you can also just keep using them as is, and just select the different board in the IDE.

Many people (myself included) bootload nanos and pro minis as Unos to use the better bootloader (optiboot uses only 512 bytes of flash, instead of like 2k that the pro mini's stock bootloader uses, and is a little faster to program)
ATTinyCore for x4/x5/x61/x7/x8/x41/1634/828/x313 megaTinyCore for the megaavr ATtinies - Board Manager:
http://drazzy.com/package_drazzy.com_index.json
ATtiny breakouts, mosfets, awesome prototyping board in my store http://tindie.com/stores/DrAzzy

lifeofbrian

#3
Jun 07, 2016, 01:08 am Last Edit: Jun 07, 2016, 01:21 am by lifeofbrian
Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try tomorrow. Do you know why these two mini pro boards have different names for the connectors? Maybe I'm hooking mine up wrong?

This is my one, from sparkfun. The names for the holes don't match the FT232RL. http://s33.postimg.org/tj4a15wmn/20160606_232803.jpg
This is the bangood version which matches the pin hole names on the FT232RL. http://s33.postimg.org/50sf86lpr/SKU066315_10.jpg

Try telling the IDE that it's one of the other Arduino boards that has a '328p - the Uno and Nano...

Each board has a different bootloader on it, but the chips are identical, and it's not unheardof for clones to ship with the wrong bootloader (often Optiboot, the Uno bootloader - which happens to be strictly better). In these cases, while you can reburn the "right" bootloader, you can also just keep using them as is, and just select the different board in the IDE.

Many people (myself included) bootload nanos and pro minis as Unos to use the better bootloader (optiboot uses only 512 bytes of flash, instead of like 2k that the pro mini's stock bootloader uses, and is a little faster to program)

couka

#4
Jun 07, 2016, 01:31 am Last Edit: Jun 07, 2016, 02:33 pm by couka
The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
Edit: Didn't look close enough, thanks OldSteve.

I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.


lg, couka
youtube.com/DieBastler1234
Don't send me technical questions via PM. They will be deleted unanswered.

lifeofbrian

OK thanks. Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?
http://s33.postimg.org/tj4a15wmn/20160606_232803.jpg

The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.


lg, couka

OldSteve

#6
Jun 07, 2016, 03:50 am Last Edit: Jun 07, 2016, 03:53 am by OldSteve
The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.

lg, couka
No, the pinouts are not the same. Look closely and you'll see the difference. Some boards have the pinouts arranged backwards.

Looking onto the end of the boards in the linked images, one has TX second from the left, whereas the other has TX second from the right, (I have to turn my USB to TTL converter upside down to connect to my Pro Minis).


A Google image search for "Arduino Pro Mini" will show many examples of this.


@lifeofbrian. Despite the above, it sounds like you're connecting correctly:-
Quote
.....Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?
Please do not PM me for help. I am not a personal consultant.
And others will benefit as well if you post your question publicly on the forums.

CrossRoads

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

CrossRoads

These guys plug direct onto Promini's also.
One has mini-usb, one has micro-usb. I can testify that both work fine. I buy 10 and 20 at a time.
http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=186&filter_name=ftdi
http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=600&filter_name=ftdi
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

CrossRoads

I design my boards with an FTDI Basic header so the modules can plug directly on for code debugging as you can't debug via the ICSP header with Serial.print commands.

If the ICSP header had D10 on it, or if a connection was made, one could have a SPI UART/USB  adapter:
FT220 or FT221:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/ICs/DS_FT220X.pdf
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/DataSheets/ICs/DS_FT221X.pdf

FT220 in one-bit mode looks to be sufficient. Would need a library for it to be really useful.

Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

dmjlambert

OK thanks. Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?
Yes BLK is GND and GRN is DTR.   Once you have those 2 pins oriented correctly, the rest just fall in line and it is a straight pin-to-pin hookup.  

I recommend 2 things:

1. Do the loop back test on the FTDI adapter.   This means disconnect it from the Pro Mini, connect the RX and TX pins together on the FTDI adapter, and plug in the USB connector to your computer.   Open Serial Monitor and type some sentences, and Send.   Make sure the characters you type come back to you in the Serial Monitor.  Also be on the lookout for extra text, such as "NON-GENUINE"

2. Go ahead and solder a header on the Pro Mini and connect the adapter, then try it out and show us a picture of it actually connected together.   It is typical to put the male header on the Pro Mini and the female on the FTDI adapter, and "FTDI Basic" adapters come with a female header.   But it is ok to use male on the FTDI and female on the Pro Mini.   I don't know if you are doing this, but people have before simply inserted the pins of the FTDI adapter into the holes in the Pro Mini, and that is usually not suitable.  


CrossRoads

Using just pins can work, but you have to apply steady pressure while programming, and keep the pressure up until the programming is done. Much more stable to have soldered headers on both ends that mate, on can be connected with terminated wires from pololu.com or dipmicro.com.
examples
https://www.pololu.com/product/1801
https://www.pololu.com/product/1905
I have bags of wires and crimp housings in various sizes to make up different harnesses.

http://www.dipmicro.com/store/WIRE-JMP40FM
These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to  plug in together.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.

larryd

#12
Jun 07, 2016, 07:12 am Last Edit: Jun 07, 2016, 07:35 am by LarryD
@Crossroads
Quote
These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to  plug in together
5 minute epoxy does a good job to convert those to a single housing.
Can add a carrier strip of plastic to the back if more strength is necessary.
Use tape to hold in place until solid.

Also helps to plug pins on a header while glue cures.


.
No technical PMs.
If you are asked a question, please respond with an answer.
If you are asked for more information, please supply it.
If you need clarification, ask for help.

DrAzzy

These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to  plug in together.
Get the kind without the housings on the end, and some housings. (putting pins onto wire sucks, even with the right crimp tool - I don't recommend it. Just get prepinned cable and put housings on it).
ATTinyCore for x4/x5/x61/x7/x8/x41/1634/828/x313 megaTinyCore for the megaavr ATtinies - Board Manager:
http://drazzy.com/package_drazzy.com_index.json
ATtiny breakouts, mosfets, awesome prototyping board in my store http://tindie.com/stores/DrAzzy

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