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Topic: Share tips you have come across (Read 177432 times) previous topic - next topic

larryd

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JarvisM1

That's nice. Thanks for sharing your tips with us. But as a newbie, I don't follow any tips yet. But I will try.

Mdmrs

I keep these charts printed out and taped up where I can see them so I don't have to figure out resistance in my head.  Yes,  I know that makes me sound old, but since I am old I can deal with that.

larryd

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chicao

#679
Sep 21, 2019, 06:32 am Last Edit: Sep 22, 2019, 03:37 am by Coding Badly
If you don't have the proper pliers to cut thin wire, just use the above. Make sure it is not connect to any power source.





ChrisPR

Homemade 3D printed "Breadboard breadboard"

Originally I had this with a homemade pcb which carried a PIC 18F452 which I could program through ICSP. Then I discovered the joy of Arduino and made an adapter plate for my UNO so I could use that instead






TomGeorge

Ohhh nice... it even has a handle, brilliant. :) :)

Have you got the STL files?

Tom... :)
Everything runs on smoke, let the smoke out, it stops running....

ChrisPR

Yes. Attached :)

I printed with 0.4mm nozzle / 0.2mm layer height and used a 25% fill

TenoTrash

Made myself a shut (stainless steel) to easy measure my led proyects more easy!



1mV is 100mA:



Not so bad, let's raise the bet...



The entry in my blog!

Cheers from Argentina!!!


larryd

#684
Oct 02, 2019, 09:06 pm Last Edit: Oct 03, 2019, 07:46 am by larryd
In my latest project, I had to install quite a few small nuts onto small screws.
With large fingers, no figure nails, and 'Arthur' in my joints, frustration soon set in.
The solution was to come up with the following method to make nut installation simple and easy.

You need:
- 1.6 mm stainless steel welding rod. To assemble a series of M2 nuts.
- 6 mm heat shrink 4:1, glue lined.  Used for the 'nut magazine'.
- 3 mm heat shrink regular 2:1.  To keep the nuts from falling off the stainless-steel rod and to
prevent any 6 mm heat-shrink glue from sticking to the rod.

For the purpose of this discussion, clear heat shrink was used to make things easy to see.
However, using 4:1 heat shrink, glue lined, is recommended.

Make up several nut magazines ahead of time so they are ready when they are needed.

This method can be used with other similar components like small stand-offs, washers etc.













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larryd

#685
Oct 02, 2019, 09:07 pm Last Edit: Oct 02, 2019, 09:25 pm by larryd










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larryd

#686
Oct 02, 2019, 09:08 pm Last Edit: Oct 02, 2019, 10:05 pm by larryd






Of course you still have to tighten the nut with a wrench.










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larryd

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larryd

#688
Oct 20, 2019, 10:28 pm Last Edit: Oct 20, 2019, 10:38 pm by larryd
The following discusses a simple and effective method of making your own cable strain reliefs.

You will need:
1. 4:1 heat shrink tubing with glue lining  (~1 ½" length).
2. Step drill and/or reamer and a file for tuning our hole size.
3. Nylon cable tie.
4. Assorted M2 screws and M2 washers.
5. Brass standoffs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty100-M2-Knurled-Brass-Spacer-Standoff-Female-Female-/182524389953

We first need to add 4:1 heat shrink to our cable.
When we shrink the heat shrink, we see the jacketed portion has a larger diameter than the stripped portion.
If this difference in diameter needs to be increased, add a short piece of heat shrink under the outer heat shrink.

For the left side of the heat shrink shown, 1/2 inch over the stripped wires should be adequate.
It is this portion that will be tied to a standoff.

Use a step drill to make a hole in the chassis back or side.
The cable hole fit should be tight; use a reamer or file to tune the diameter.

Four methods are shown for tying the cable.
Each method prevents our cable from turning or being removed from the hole in the chassis.
I prefer the 'Brass standoff' or 'Brass standoff plastic nut' method.









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larryd

#689
Oct 20, 2019, 10:29 pm Last Edit: Oct 21, 2019, 12:39 am by larryd
10mm and below have the threads all the way through the standoff.



Do not use twist drills for making holes in plastic.

Use 2 fluted step drills or a "D" bit.



DCM (Methylene Chloride) is a solvent that welds most plastics.  Acrylic, ABS, Styrene, PLA etc.






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