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Topic: Homemade pcb with Photoresist method (Read 3940 times) previous topic - next topic

ElCaron

yep plus the 13€ for shipping, maybe in your country it is cheaper
At seeed, I just paid 11US$ and 13US$ for shipping to Germany, for 20 boards each. So one board for 10US$=9€, if you throw away 9 from each design. Still worth it for me.

tinman13kup

I actually found the solution for plated through holes at a house remodel I did. The previous owners left behind some old electronics parts, I'm guessing from the 60's/70's. In there I found a vial of what looked like rivets. On closer inspection, there were 2 sizes, in which one fit perfectly into the other.. The hole through the center just happens to be the right size for through hole parts.  I would really like to locate more of these, as I only have about 30 left.

As for the boards, I just use the pre-sensitized boards, standard transparency sheets, and an Ott-light to expose them. 8 minutes does the trick, and I'm using downwards of .012 traces. I find temperature is key for the whole thing.
Tom
It's not a hobby if you're not having fun doing it. Step back and breathe

Wawa

Well, it's ok for some, but I bet you can' t do 4 thou track and spacing and 10 thou vias....
And how do you register top and bottom layers?
And as for mutilayers - that's tricky.
The CNC is only used for crude single layer things. The power stuff you do on strip board.

I started with rolls of 0.5-1mm wide etch resistant tape and an etch resistant drawing pen.
Then etch resistant rub-on transfers (pads and tracks).
Then moved to spray-on photoresist. Messy, smelly (has to be baked on), oneven, dust in it, etc.
Then the pre-fab photo sensitive boards. Then the iron-on transfer sheets (bad).

I think I produced the best boards with etch resistant transfers. I think it was "Letraset".
Not sure if you still can get that (I'm talking 30+ years ago).
...professionally made boards are so good and cheap I woudn't bother these days.
And maybe the slow boat is partially a good thing - it makes you check thoroughly before ordering..
When your design skill improve, it's indeed the only way.
Leo..

allanhurst

In mobile phone design , using 6 or 8 layer boards 1.2mm thick, full of layout critical RF stuff and BGAs  with microvias etc, where every 'spin' costs an awful lot, I always insisted ( however loudly the management yelled about delays ) on a full day of team review before finally releasing the design.

  Found a lot of silly errors.

Allan.

Boardburner2

#19
May 17, 2017, 03:16 am Last Edit: May 17, 2017, 03:19 am by Boardburner2
. In there I found a vial of what looked like rivets. On closer inspection, there were 2 sizes, in which one fit perfectly into the other.. The hole through the center just happens to thing.
Sounds like through hole rivets , Farnell used to do them.

Csn be found on ebay.

tinman13kup

Sounds like through hole rivets , Farnell used to do them.

Csn be found on ebay.
Hot diggity, Farnell has them....but what's a pound???

As for Ebay..... I've not bought anything from there for a long long time. Too much junk being peddled there
Tom
It's not a hobby if you're not having fun doing it. Step back and breathe

larryd

#21
May 17, 2017, 03:39 am Last Edit: May 17, 2017, 03:52 am by larryd
I have a million of these.
When it comes to a home made PCBs, I would walk over a bed of hot coals to avoid it.





Good old dayshttps://www.google.ca/search?q=pcb+rivets&espv=2&biw=1360&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCcQsARqFQoTCOLsx7O06MgCFZGliAodvyQGkg


Edit:

FYI
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html


.
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Wawa

Good for giving a heavy item like a small transformer/inductor some extra support on a single side board.
I also still have bags of them in the bottom of the drawer.
leo..

larryd

No technical PMs.
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Wawa

I just put a phillips head screwdriver on the thin end of the rivet, and hit it with a hammer.
Leo..

aster94

I will try a cheap transparent/tracing paper and see if it works with my laser printer

About the spray i will use the positiv 20, everyone suggest it and looks like no one had tried any alternatives

When i would need more than 2 boards i will go for sure for seed, pcbway or similar but for now i d rather to waste some time and as someone have smartly said i will double check my design doing manually the boards

larryd

I use the negative pre sensitized board, less ink from the ink jet printer.


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MarkDerbyshire

I use the negative pre sensitized board, less ink from the ink jet printer.


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Depends on your circuit design on the amount of ink that is used

larryd

#28
May 17, 2017, 07:49 pm Last Edit: May 17, 2017, 07:50 pm by larryd
With a ground plain.







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Boardburner2

Using the negative method i find that most printers cannot do large areas of dense black weather they are inkjet or laser.

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