A suggestion.Find some old discarded PCB and practice soldering.The pref board looks rough.
Yes, I think so too. Some parts were for me really difficult to solder.
Thanks for the suggestions!I probably will have to do this. Learning to solder properly will take quite some time? I think it may be easier to keep my motivation up by doing real projects... perhaps the easier solution for now is to find perfboards that are easier to solder.<snip>
Try and get lead based solder, rather than lead-free solder.
Hi,Try and get lead based solder, rather than lead-free solder.Tom...
Perf board can often be difficult to solder (especially if it's been sat on the shelf a while) - consider investing in some liquid reworking flux, just a tiny amount wiped on can make it so much easier.
I use very thin solder. The solder I use is perhaps the width of 2 human hairs.
When soldering perf board I use a fine point soldering tip.
My soldering station has temperature control I can dial in the temperature.
Use the least amount of solder that you possibly can.
use solder flux when un soldering parts.a good vacuum solder sucker is necessaryuse solder wick if you do not have a solder sucker.
The one I use is 0,8mm. I now browsed our local component store, and they stock 0,38mm. The thinnest I found online was 0,3mm. What is the size of the one you are using? Are you ordering it online? I have this solder, http://www.mpja.com/Mini-Solder-Station-ZD-99/productinfo/15860+TL/it was recommended by somebody for this kind of work when I started few years ago. (Had a break after initial bad experiences of soldering.) It seems to have a 1/32" tip, which is 0,8mm. It seems this model does not have finer replacement tips available.What would be fine point tip? It seems Weller has 0,25mm tips.Mine has temperature control too, but I find it difficult to find what would be the exact temperature I should use. Now it is set to approx 325'C. This seems high for me, but with lower it seems that the tin is not liquidifying.Here I guess some practice will help...Flux I have not used, will have to look into that. I have both wick and a sucker. I don't know if my sucker is good or not. Here practice will probably also help. It seems that using the solder to liquidify and then using the sucker at the same time is not very easy to do. It seems I am missing hands. (Sure, I have helping hands. Maybe my real problem is working lights). Applies for wicking too.
I use 0.8mm solder for quite a lot of things (I do repair older electronics) and 0.46mm for newer projects - that's only for thru-hole. For surface-mount it's always paste from a syringe.Personally, I don't think I could work with anything thinner than 0.46mm - but it really is a preference and 'preferred technique' sort of thing. I've seen guys using really thin solder and they seem to do a 'heat it up and feeeeed it in', whereas I think I'm a 'heat it up and dab some on' kinda guy. Has sort-of-parallels to MIG vs. TIG if you've done some welding.Yours, TonyWilk