No.Did you actually read (and make sure you understand the circuit in) the tutorial I linked to? Or one of the thousands of other tutorials about the subject...
Your circuits don't make sense. It's not even a copy of what's posted in that tutorial. That particular resistor is where normally your load would be.
That looks good - except for that ground connection on the mains voltage side. That has to go.
Hi,What load do you want to switch with the Triac?Thanks.. Tom..
Incandescents: no problem.LEDs: may or may not work depending on how the LED's circuit reacts to the load.Halogen: normally has a transformer, making it a HIGHLY inductive load, and that's a problem, unless you connect this on the halogen (low voltage) side of the transformer. You'd have to adapt the circuit, especially the zero crossing, to the lower voltage.
Thank you for the info. Do you know how dimmers can work with both Incandescent and Halogen lights and still be wired the same way? I have a dimmer here where it says it works with both.
This is the most mind-bending discussion I have seen here for some time!A Halogen lamp with a transformer is essentially a resistive load. The only inductance of concern is the leakage inductance of the transformer. The common series-wired two wire dimmer does not even notice the difference. A microprocessor-controlled phase controlled dimmer should work just as well.If however you have halogen down-lights, the best thing is to replace them with LED luminaires - much more efficient means less heating; you can get dimmable ones which will work just fine with phase dimming if they are so specified.A zero-crossing optocoupler such as the MOC3041 completely prevents phase control for dimming.
I didn't know phase control dimming could be used for leds as well.