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Topic: DIY Flexible Brakeout Boards & Multi-Layer Circuits (Read 3724 times) previous topic - next topic


Jul 16, 2011, 04:23 am Last Edit: Jul 16, 2011, 04:30 am by fkeel Reason: 1
I have been teaching myself how to build flexible circuits. Here are my newest creations. They basically just are a proof of concept - I wanted to see whether this is even possible.


and the beloved atmega :-D

I have instructions (well, links to instructions & my own comments) posted here on my blog: http://fkeel.blogspot.com/2011/07/diy-flexible-circuits.html

I also made multi-layer circuits using pyralux by simply punching holes into it, and connecting some feet of the ICs I was using to the top and some to the lower level.
(pictures of that can by found on my blog as well...)


If anyone else here does their own flexible PCBs I would really apreceate some comments. I have yet to design the final iteration of the project I am working on, and would love feedback and suggestions.

Anyway. Hope you like my little multiplexer brakoutboard above




EDIT & off topic : When I post here, I usually just sort of post a preview and then point to my blog. I dont want to force anyone to my page - it just feels so odd to put the same thing online twice... what do you prefer? Me copypasting my blog entry here, or me pointing to my blog?


Nice work!
How tolerant is the material of soldering?

I'd prefer both entries, as I check these from elsewhere  a lot and oftentimes blogs are blocked.
Designing & building electrical circuits for over 25 years.  Screw Shield for Mega/Due/Uno,  Bobuino with ATMega1284P, & other '328P & '1284P creations & offerings at  my website.


Its pretty nice - it took my like 4 attempts to solder the atmega chip (and I burnt up one in the process :-(... I think. Have not hooked them up to a circuit yet...) so I soldered/desoldered quite a lot.

the layout you see on the left in the picture below however was almost inpossible to solder, as the leads just pealed off.

once it is soldered, you have the common problem of something flexible beeing attached to something rigid. to overcome this, any solderjoint which will be strained or moved should be additionally supported, or the solder will pull the copper off the plastic. (well... as of now thats just a theory, but I think thats what will happen.)

The plastic below is amazingly heat resistant. Does not burn or melt.




The wearable Arduino Lilypad people could do with this.
I write books about Arduino and Electronics: http://simonmonk.org

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