an actor in the room uses a magnetic ring to inconspicuously trigger the magnet reed switches
Power for the Mega is 12v 1A
raschemmel, you sound like a lot of fun at parties.
The question was WHAT is powering the mega (not the voltage) , but WHAT DEVICE ?WHAT IS IT ?
I could also recommend a shit ton of electrolytic filter caps and 0.1 uF decoupling caps.Scattered around your circuit , preferably close to the Mega.
Did you come here to party or to fix your circuit.
Are the false triggers synchronous with lock triggers ?
Where do you recommend putting the caps? Across the input wires and ground? like this -
12volt is waaay to high for a Mega that has to power five 80mA relays.You should not power more than one relay with that voltage. That 12-5= 7volt (6.3volt actually) is has to drop, with a several hundred mA load, generates a lot of heat in the 5volt regulator. It could randomly shut down (if you're lucky) when getting too hot.
Are you saying there is no time to switch the power over to another battery because you'rerunning constantly or because the logistics of using a battery is inconvenient.
As a professional Electronics Engineering Technician with a BSEET from DeVry, I'm telling you that if youtry using a battery and it eliminates the false triggers then that CONFIRMS the interference is not so much EMI as garbage on the AC line. Sometimes extreme problems require extreme measures.I'm not going to guarantee that the false triggers will go away, but until you try it , you won't knowif they would.
If you put filter caps on all the 5V lines everywhere and 0.1uF decoupling caps near all the logic, you reduce the amount of interference on the signal lines.
s there a benefit to using the USB socket as opposed to a 5v DC adapter into the barrel jack?
I'm telling you that yes, that is in fact how trouble shooting works. Good job. Thank you.