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Topic: NE555 Timer Delay Module (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic

NervusTwitch

Yeah, don't get me started on the wife thing. As an electronics engineering tech I am a packrat and she never stops asking me to throw stuff out and I almost never comply. When I no longer need something
I give it away.
LOL.
My wife hates that Im a packrat. If it looks like I could use it I keep it. I'll take broken things apart and take parts out I might be able to use later.

While back I took out a couple joysticks I had from late 90's and converted them to USB and total rewire with added functions, she just rolls her eyes.

raschemmel

Quote
While back I took out a couple joysticks I had from late 90's and converted them to USB and total rewire with added functions, she just rolls her eyes.
I don't try to explain anything I'm doing. Awhile back I had two tables set up in the garage with about 40 different arduino circuits breadboarded. When she asked me what I was doing I just said I was 'upgrading my jobskills to keep up to date with the latest technology" She never asked me again and I'm doing a much smaller version of the same thing right now with ESP8266 WIFI enable microcontrollers. I have about 8 of them breadboarded, along with a couple of ATMega328s . I'm studying IOT on Udemy.com (along with Matlab and Python). I hope to get around to Solidworks eventually but so far haven't had time.

NervusTwitch

After making this display she stopped asking me what Im doing.
Made this with various odd and ends I robbed from broken stuff then used Arduino 324 micro.
That frame its in is actually an old picture frame with a piece of plexiglass cut and mounted to front.
Then used black vinyl wrap to frame the displays and LED's.

There is a button on it to where I can change the programmed info to many different readouts.

Racing Sim Display

raschemmel

Awesome display dude !

You should sell those .

NervusTwitch

Awesome display dude !

You should sell those .
Thanks.

Guess I could since I didnt find much anything like this for sale online anywhere, tons of button boxes out there though.
But the minute I started advertising this in the Race sim community I think I would bombed and overloaded with everyone wanting them...lol.

NervusTwitch

Ok I have no idea if Im just bad with these things or just bad luck with them alltogether.

Ordered another set of 5.

Tested with only VCC and GND connected to car battery.Car off and battery voltage was 13.9v
2 worked for maybe 2 cycles, then afterwards just made a buzzing sound. I removed power from battery then reconnected, now they do nothing but light up the power light.

Tested a 3rd and it never clicked, only power led.

Tested the one that worked from the 1st batch I bought, still functions properly.

I have not tested the last 2.Do those tomorrow since its getting late now.
Thinking these things might be just junk.

Any ideas now?
Maybe a better alternative to these that function the same way? Adjustable timer,12v DC for car and not overly complicated.

raschemmel

If I had to take a wild ass guess it would be that when they say 12V, they mean 12V and NOT 13.8V and
they cannot tolerate anything above 12V.
The correct way to verify that is to test them all repeated using a powersupply or alkaline battery pack that
does NOT exceed 12V. If you don't have a power supply then get 8 1.5V batteries and put them in a battery pack and then add a silicon diode to bleed off the voltage above 12V so the total voltage is 12V and not above. Then test all of them at least three times at 12V. Once you have done your due diligence as the
shipping/receiving guy then give them to the tech (also you) and let him blow them up one by one on a car battery.  :smiley-grin:

NervusTwitch

#37
Aug 13, 2019, 06:33 am Last Edit: Aug 13, 2019, 06:54 am by NervusTwitch
I was thinking of trying something like that with batteries since my 12v DC converter died on me.

What measurement diode would you suggest, I have a bunch on them here just not sure what I should use.

Whats confusing me on these is its what the other car guys are doing to do the same exact thing using same modules Im using.

raschemmel

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What measurement diode would you suggest,
A 1N4001 to 1N4007 is fine. It is only to provide a 0.7V diode drop because brand new alkaline batteries
are NEVER 1.5V. They are always somewhere between 1.55 and 1.6V.
This means eight 1.5V batteries will total 12.4 to 12.8V. If the purpose of the test is to see if the modules
are not damaged by 12V or less , we have to make sure not to exceed 12V. By connecting the unbanded
Anode end of a diode to the +12V terminal and connecting the banded end to the module , it should drop 0.7V and you can test the module with 11.5 to 11.9V.



NervusTwitch

Thanks.
Good, I have probably 400-500 of those 1N4001,lol.

I'll give that a try next on the others I havent tried yet.

raschemmel

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have probably 400-500 of those 1N4001,lol. 
Matlab says you can drop 350 V with 500 1N4001 diodes. (FYI).

NervusTwitch

I looked at the order page and saw this:

"Output is voltage free & can be connected up to 10A load.Input voltage:DC12V.Stream with relay protection"

Im not blowing these by connecting them straight to the battery am I?

Out of a total of 10, only 1 continues to work, none of the others will ever trigger the relays.

raschemmel

#42
Aug 13, 2019, 08:09 pm Last Edit: Aug 13, 2019, 08:10 pm by raschemmel
Quote
Im not blowing these by connecting them straight to the battery am I?

Out of a total of 10, only 1 continues to work, none of the others will ever trigger the relays.
The LM555 TIMER IC can tolerate supply voltages up to 18V so there's plenty of margin between that and 13.8V so quite honestly, I have no idea what is going wrong but experience tells me that if someone blows up 9 out of 10 devices , thinking they are wiring  them correctly , there's a pretty good chance they're mistaken.

So, here's the $64,000 question.
We know from your wiring diagram that SOME Of the modules were connected according to your posted schematic. But out of the 9 that went bad, were there ANY that you ONLY connected the power terminals
directly to the battery and nothing else ? (and used an ohm meter to check the relay contact position)

Is there any static where you are ? (pops and shocks when you touch something ?)


NervusTwitch

#43
Aug 13, 2019, 08:32 pm Last Edit: Aug 13, 2019, 08:35 pm by NervusTwitch
The 5 new ones I got I only connected the VCC and GND terminals straight to car battery, nothing else just as was suggested in a previous reply.

Since the car sat overnight, the battery was at 12.7v.
With doing just as above the one that works still works doing just that.
3-4 of them would buzz like a bunch of mad bees for 1 or 2 cycles then they never trigger the relay. some just never triggered.

Ive never had an issue blowing components like this so its really confusing me.

Static electricity isnt a problem here, never happens except when its cold outside and even then its rare.
But i also have the habit before touching electronics like this to touch some bare metal or something grounded before handling electronics.

Im careful not to touch any of the modules to any metal,no accidental wire touches.Ive been trying to be as careful as possible to rule that stuff out.

I found a couple vids and they are doing exactly what I am trying with no issue, only difference is the type of car.

He has it working

Also working, but rambles a bit

raschemmel

I don't know what to tell you.
Bad batch ?

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