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Topic: Using Arduino to control 74HC595 not CD40110BE in cascade using SPI. (Read 2387 times) previous topic - next topic


IF my hair was longer i would literally pull all of it out right now.

the strips you see are actual copper wire wound around the core in loops, one length, so the current is split in two feeds at the positive brush. since the brush is moving so does the contact change as does the inductance of the two feeds.  there will be two opposing magnetic fields at the brush that keep the two feeds separate which allows each feed on either side of the brush to change. one raising in current the other lowering in current in one direction then the other direction one lowering and the other raising in current.

no, the right angle strip is the end of the loops of the one layer inductor that never get toughed by the brush. they are there for inductance purposes and the connection to the magnet.

Yes ! you are correct sort of. the device is DC so the rotating brush raises and lowers the current feed of the two that look like always positive Ac yet not since it is DC. the inductor will only lower the reducing feed 1/3 rd of the peak.

so you see i need a program that will act like the night rider to switch the taps from one end to the other and back in a continuous basis. overlapping each tap in the middle with the ends on for three times longer. the inductor i have has 46 taps off of the inductor so i will need a program that can shift 0 to 45 and back to 0 continuously all while overlapping the taps and the ends on for three times longer.

simple yes !

PS.  PualRB here is a link to the rotating inductor i am building.  the inductor core is below the rotating brush holder but it was not wound with wire at the time or had the brushes installed. this is the mechanical version, the software is for the electronically switched version.

low RPM test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MZaSZLLEWQ

High speed test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OT2Tubgv-_A


I also have a video that is 16 LED's in a night rider fashion if you need to see that also. it is very slow and can not be used for the project but can be used for testing purposes. the SPi is the way to go and i really appreciate the help in this matter.

thank you so much.



  I figured out how to have the ends on for three times longer without changing or adding more complexity to the sketch program.  all i have to do is add an extra channel on both ends for a total of 48 channels with the overlap in place..
the timing will be 3/2, 2/1, 1/0, 0/0 and at the other end  45/46, 46/47, 47/48, 48/48. by adding an extra channel on the end i can leave the timing at 177 us update.

the extra channel will be attached to the last transistor channel so as to have two attached on each end. this is much easier to implement as i already have two extra channels (48) on the board already so why not use them.


Hmm! Neat solution. Well done. Looking forward to seeing this thing working, and perhaps finally understanding what it is and what it is for!


Thanks for the compliment but it is really i who should be complimenting you for the help on the program.

What it is?  it is an active inductor with one positive rotating brush and two negative feeds.

What it does?   uses inductive rectance to control current flow of the two feeds 180 degrees out from each other in complete unison.

see most people including Universities think inductance can only be controlled by a change in current. this is not the whole picture as any change in the magnetic flux to current ratio (inductance)  will in fact change current flow which is then given frequency which then falls under inductive reactance.

in inductive reactance the current change or inductance change are universal as in each one can control the other in inductive reactance. in this case with an active inductor, it is a change in inductance that changes the current flow on a steady basis as the brush rotates. what is happening is the magnetic flux to current ratio is increasing and decreasing as the brush rotates. this rise and fall of magnetic flux is the opposition to the original current flow so there fore you get a linear rise and fall of current flow through the two feeds.

here is a link to one of my followers that used my guidance to build this electronic version. you will see the current flow to the lights are 180 degrees out from each other. one rising the other falling in complete unison.https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=15&v=gu5u4wVgiw8

the reason i am developing my own is mine is much less complex and has timing overlap. plus the fact that in the video there is way to much inductance which reduces the current down to far to be useful.

What it is for; I will personally find you and make sure you see what you have helped create.


What will you be using as the switching device, MOSFET or IGBT?
As the current you will be switching will be a form of AC, the device will need to be conductive in both directions, possibly use a thyristor/triac package.

The YouTube video didn't show the inductor working, just the flashing control lights.

I assume you will be using opto-coupling to isolate the grounded control circuit from the active inductor switching circuit?
If opto you will need to research high speed devices.

Tom... :)
Everything runs on smoke, let the smoke out, it stops running....



  Most of what you state is correct although the DC used to opperate the device is given AC like qualities of raising and lowering but never reversing like that of AC so the use of AC switching is not necessary. raising and lowering never reversing. inductor is releasing stored potential into the system in a linear fashion. unlike a static indutor.

Mosfets will be used for switching. i do not want to use high side drivers so to keep it simple.

OMG, you are totally missing  a huge aspect of the video, why do you think the lights are dimming 180 degrees out???
that is because of the inductive reactance as the contacts change with all the nifty little aspects of my previous post you are completely overlooking.
i really didn't expect you to miss that one but then again i do have 6 years of research ahead of you and am the leading researcher on this device.
the inductive reactance of the active inductor is controlling the current flow of the two light bulbs that are connected to the end outputs of the inductor, one on each side.
it's all about the magnetic flux to current ratio, increase it , less current, decrease it, more current flow.

i need to concentrate on the software to control the electronics not the entire aspects of the device as a whole.
that will come later.


I actually have thought about using an opto. there are 2 and 300 volt varieties that i can use instead of the small n channel to switch the p channel. this will give me isolation even though there will be no BEMF in the system just a linear release of stored potential. it just might be a justified expense and precaution.


Here is a not so good Schematic, i did not have time to make proper one. as you can see the circuit is fairly simple if i was to use opto's. the SFH series at 300 volt 150 ma is very robust so it should be able to handle the p channel switching, i hope.
this is just one of a few scenarios i will test before moving forward. i was wondering though if i should add a 10 volt Zener diode between the gate of the p and positive along with the resistor keeping things at 10 volts even if the line voltage rises.



  As long as it is connected towards the negative side it should turn on. i do not see why it has to
connect directly. see after it is initially started, the inductor becomes the power supply, ie the central point of potential which is releasing from the inductor.
it is my understanding that as long as one side is pointing to pos and the other to neg it should turn on. anything below the drain is considered negative and anything above the source is considered positive correct.

the other circuit i have has an n channel in place of the opto which is logic level.
granted, these circuits have not been fully tested just yet so obviously testing dictates final circuit.


I am curious if anyone has used the Nexperia NPIC6C4894DY 12 bit shift register. seems to be a good chip set.

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