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Topic: Banggood CNC3018 Pro connection (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic

jjgurley

Also, your link that you refer to doesn't work for me.  I tried tinkering with the link, and it still didn't come up.

jjgurley

Also, failure occurs without running any steppers.  Just plugging it in and sending repeated "$$" results in a few sets of good data transitioning to crap after a minute or so.  There's no detectable "hot spots" on the board, at least not sweeping with my IR thermometer.

ballscrewbob

Been away for a few days.
So just getting back into things I may have missed.

Sounding like a return to banggood for the controller at the very least.

As for setting the driver voltages it is just like any large or small real life project and things have to be "commissioned"
In all my years I have never installed or built a machine (mech/elec and full size CNC) without there being some things that need checking during the build and during fire-up.
Just like any motor there will be no "just fire it up" there will be bump starts to check rotation. There will be "run in / burn in" periods without load first.

As for others just fire up and go. I would not mind there is a good amount of problems be they immediate or later and maybe followed by additional costs / returns.
Age old saying "if somebody else walked in front of a moving bus would you do it too ?"

Whilst you are waiting for your return board to be processed take the time tp couple check ALL alignments, Load bearings with grease, check cable runs, re-check every single screw and nut.
And of course check for anything else you may have left laying around on sensitive electronic components like styrofoam and unknown gunk that could be conductive for all we know.

Yes I am beating on you a very tiny amount, but as somebody with an EE ticket should know a lot better. Would probably have given a pass to a true noob.
Learn and move on by being prepared.
More importantly "informed"

Bob.






It may not be the answer you were looking for but its the one I am giving based on either experience, educated guess, google or the fact that you gave nothing to go with in the first place so I used my wonky crystal ball.

ballscrewbob

Just checked most of the links too and they appear to work here.
But I gave more than one so who knows which one does or does not ?
It may not be the answer you were looking for but its the one I am giving based on either experience, educated guess, google or the fact that you gave nothing to go with in the first place so I used my wonky crystal ball.

jjgurley

I only see one link in the message, and clicking it downloads the photo of my board.  Banggood finally returned my email and said nothing will happen until Feb 1, due to the Chinese New Year. Rats!

They apparently know nothing about the product and need to work through Sainsmart.

After fifty years of never having a problem due to static, I'll accept the criticism for getting a little sloppy.  The styrofoam was "pressed"' into the board - the shipping box had a pretty rough trip and there was styrofoam filling every aluminum slot.

ballscrewbob

#20
Jan 21, 2020, 03:25 pm Last Edit: Jan 21, 2020, 03:25 pm by ballscrewbob
At the upper left of each message is a number "#xx" tell me which reply has the link that does not work.

I also have a couple of outstanding items for the Chinese new year...At least the most important stuff is already en-route.
Chances are they will just send out a new controller after you badger them but get them to put new driver boards with it as you cannot be sure they are not the cause.

Often I bypass Bangood, Ebay, Amazon and get my parts from Aliexpress.
Not had a bad experience yet and they are pretty prompt about mistakes etc.
More so than Ebay.

Changed all my controllers over to UNO's with regular CNC shields as I find they are more robust.
Also allows me to have very cheap spares laying around too.

It may not be the answer you were looking for but its the one I am giving based on either experience, educated guess, google or the fact that you gave nothing to go with in the first place so I used my wonky crystal ball.

jjgurley

#13's  "I would also refer you to a thread Danger and myself have in which there are also some decent tips."  This link opens an image of my board.

I've tinkered a little bit more, and applying a cold pencil eraser (chilled with freeze spray) to the CH340C chip cures the failure.  Putting my finger on the chip brings it right back.  I've inspected it pretty closely with my dissecting microscope and don't see any cold solder joints, solder splashes, or detritus.  It fails with all the cables disconnected except the USB and power.  In fact, it fails with just the USB connected, as enough power seems to get there thru USB to operate the processor at idle.  None of my usual fast sources (Mouser, Digikey, etc) carry the chip, so I don't think I can make progress any faster than waiting for a replacement even if I was willing to risk the warranty.

If I knew it was going to take three months to get a working machine, I would have happily spent more money.

DangerToMyself

#22
Jan 22, 2020, 01:40 am Last Edit: Jan 22, 2020, 01:43 am by DangerToMyself
If I knew it was going to take three months to get a working machine, I would have happily spent more money.
I've had mine about that long. Mine went pretty smooth for a time. But the spindle is crap and the run out gets bad pretty quick. So, I've spent what little time I've had over the last month designing and milling a new mount for the new spindle. One more piece to go. So, hoping the original spindle holds up just a little longer.

These machines are a perfect example of "You get what you pay for". However, the frame is not bad and the steppers seem ok. Apart from that, you would probably be replacing that board, the spindle and the printed parts sooner rather than later.

I followed Bob's advice of having multiples of everything and switched to an Uno based system as I have several of them. And got myself 2 control boards (one as backup).  Extra stepper modules, etc. Basically if any part of the control system goes bad, it's a simple swap once the issue is found. I think I only used the original controll board for 3 or 4 little jobs and stuck it in box somewhere.

And I'll add, I got mine to learn with. And it has been more of a learning experience than I thought it would be!

ballscrewbob

#23
Jan 22, 2020, 04:40 am Last Edit: Jan 22, 2020, 05:11 am by ballscrewbob
Link fixed...my bad.

I used my original controller until I hit a snag with what turned out to be just a bad driver.
Then went to the UBO/shield approach as it handles more voltage than most of the ones supplied with these machines.

The simple swap method has been handy here too as I once corrupted GRBL !
Who knew uploading a blink sketch would do that when you have over 20 live boards and forget to change the COM port.
Suspected a board issue so a 2 minute swap to put another UNO in and off to the races while I figured out the real issue.
In almost all cases even the wires themselves will just swap from a custom board to a CNC shield.

Only caveat I have there is for spindle cables which I would suggest to re-route through another form of control as you may find you need more current than the shield / custom board can handle.

I know these are sort of anecdotal stories but they do carry valid points.



It may not be the answer you were looking for but its the one I am giving based on either experience, educated guess, google or the fact that you gave nothing to go with in the first place so I used my wonky crystal ball.

jjgurley

Can you save me a lot of time and point at a "UNO/Shield" version of a board?  I'm starting from scratch here and the jargon is unfamiliar.  I'll go read the article you linked to - maybe it will become crystal clear.

ballscrewbob

#25
Jan 22, 2020, 02:59 pm Last Edit: Jan 22, 2020, 03:05 pm by ballscrewbob
These are what we were referring to

Although depending on exactly where you are you may have access to a store that is nearer (maybe not cheaper) If you need it in a rush then there is always the overpriced Amazon

The search term to use is " arduino cnc v3 " which should bring up a lot of hits.

I prefer the 8825 drivers as I have had fewer failures since moving to them.
So far I have not lost a UNO or a SHIELD at all.

If you are a penny pincher like me you can also often source the individual parts a little cheaper eg shield, UNO, drivers. And as for drivers maybe the A4988 could be a little cheaper and just as reliable with a small fan blowing over them.

@Danger....
I re-read our thread (the whole thing) and the wife asked what I was laughing at.
Still as funny and just as informative the second time around.

It may not be the answer you were looking for but its the one I am giving based on either experience, educated guess, google or the fact that you gave nothing to go with in the first place so I used my wonky crystal ball.

DangerToMyself

I've been through parts of that thread numerous times trying to find that tid bit of information you dropped about this and that. There's more than one place in it I start chuckling. And, seeing as I know myself pretty well,  I can guarantee that thread isn't dead!

Nothing wrong with cutting up from time to time.  :D

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