TRSS Breakout

[WendelTytan]

Yes that is better. However the 100K resistor seems to have changed to a 220R resistor.
This is normally caused by the ground not making contact in the circuit. The arrangement of solderless bread board is notorious for things not actually having the wiring you think you have.

This is especially true of the connections to any break out board.

kkk I didn't even notice, sorry, but in the project there is a 100k one, as follows the photo

the problem of quiet noise I can solve through some extrapolating code, in fact it decreased a lot with the recommended assembled system, but ... the problem is that I don't see anything at the entrance, as if I wasn't receiving a phone signal through from p2

Hi,
Welcome to the forum.

Have you googled;

arduino music light show

There are numerous examples of what you want to do.

Tom...

I didn't search with those exact words, but I'll take a look as well as I've been given

[Grumpy_Mike]

don't see anything at the entrance

What are you looking at, the entrance is not a proper word in this context. What are you using to look at it?

[WendelTytan]

What are you looking at, the entrance is not a proper word in this context. What are you using to look at it?

the serial monitor of the arduino ide

[Grumpy_Mike]

That is not an entrance if anything it is an exit.

I don't think you are getting any signal into your analogue input, measure on the input pin of the Arduino with an oscilloscope to see. But then I don't suppose you have one.

[TomGeorge]

Hi,
I notice on your proto board that you do not have jumpers on your red and blue power bus lines.
The gap indicates that there is a break in the bus.


Have you a DMM to check your circuit voltages.

Tom.....

[WendelTytan]

That is not an entrance if anything it is an exit.

you're right, sorry for referring me wrong xD
redundancies of Brazilian Portuguese xD

I meant output, I'm not seeing any changes in output xD

I don't think you are getting any signal into your analogue input, measure on the input pin of the Arduino with an oscilloscope to see. But then I don't suppose you have one.

the only oscilloscope that would have access would be in class, but we are in quarantine :S

Hi,
I notice on your proto board that you do not have jumpers on your red and blue power bus lines.
The gap indicates that there is a break in the bus.


Have you a DMM to check your circuit voltages.

Tom.....

well, the protoboard has many other things connected kkkk (rgb to test the desired effect, hc05 for control through an app)
but, it is energized yes, there is a jumper that did not appear in the photo but it is more to the right of the image that is connected to the blue bus on the other side of the protoboard, which is the one that is directly connected to the gnd, but by way of conscience I will connect directly to gnd, just to test xD

or would i have to connect anything else to the positive in this scheme? because in fact there's nothing there, so there's no load on the blue bus

[TomGeorge]

I will connect directly to gnd, just to test xD

or would i have to connect anything else to the positive in this scheme? because in fact there's nothing there, so there's no load on the blue bus

Just make sure all your gnds are connected together, it is a current and voltage reference point for ALL your components.
Tom...
PS, Now is the time for a proper circuit diagram, hand draw a circuit of your project, reverse engineer so you make an exact representation of your project.

[Grumpy_Mike]

the protoboard has many other things connected

That is a classic beginner mistake. You take things one at a time. If you are having trouble with one aspect of your project, then you must build the circuit and write your code so it is only that aspect that is being used.

As it stands your photos are just a forest of connectors going up out of the picture. No one can trace what the wiring is from that. Even if you show everything there is too much on the board. Wires will obscure other wires and we won't be able to see anything much that is useful.

When you do just the thing you are having trouble with you can get a lot more help, because we can see only the thing that is going wrong, both in hardware and in code. So we can look at a photo of your board and say something like "that ground is not connected" or "check you have this connection right".

With the code we can say things like "put a print statement here and tell us the result".

We only know what you are telling us and you seem to be telling us that it is all wired correctly and it doesn't work. That is fine for a start but then you expect us to tell you what you have done wrong even though we don't know what you have done.

You are our eyes and hands, without you we can't succeed.

[WendelTytan]

Just make sure all your gnds are connected together, it is a current and voltage reference point for ALL your components.
Tom...
PS, Now is the time for a proper circuit diagram, hand draw a circuit of your project, reverse engineer so you make an exact representation of your project.

yes they are, I did it and I will send what I was assembling, because I disassembled it like @Grumpy_Mike said, do one thing at a time

That is a classic beginner mistake. You take things one at a time. If you are having trouble with one aspect of your project, then you must build the circuit and write your code so it is only that aspect that is being used.

you're right, and that's what i did, i simplified the structure, simplified the code, and replaced the components with spare ones that i had

and tcharan is apparently working, I'm getting a signal on the exit through the ide, as I expected, it's less than what I thought the exit would be, but it's still some change, I can try to do something with it.
I believe the problem was the capacitor ...

but I will test more to see if it is the result, or some false positive.
and yes, apparently with the Envelope, the noise is equal to zero

You are our eyes and hands, without you we can't succeed.

and that's why I'm sending you an image of how he was assembling previously through Fritzing, and how he's now simplified, as well as photos, and the short code for the requested test

[Grumpy_Mike]

that's why I'm sending you an image of how he was assembling previously

Thanks for that and the feed back. I noticed the elastic band on the breakout board. If I had to do that I would not rely on the contacts that the bread board makes and solder a wire direct to it and plug the wires into the bread board.

I believe the problem was the capacitor

The one on the detector? What exactly was the problem?

as I expected, it's less than what I thought the exit would be, but it's still some change,

This is because the music has to reach 0.7V Peak to peak before the forward voltage of the diode is exceeded. One simply way to improve this is to use a schottky diode in place of the normal one as this type has a lower forward voltage. Or you could use an op amp in an active rectifier circuit to reduce that to zero.

Maybe the simplest thing would be to set the A/D converter to use the internal 1.1V voltage reference so you get a bigger range, but that might not discriminate enough. That is produce a reading of 0 or 1023 with little in between.

[WendelTytan]

Thanks for that and the feed back. I noticed the elastic band on the breakout board. If I had to do that I would not rely on the contacts that the bread board makes and solder a wire direct to it and plug the wires into the bread board.

I'm not very good with soldering, but I really wanted to solder them to avoid this, the problem is that since I only have this breakout I didn't want to lose xD, I'll order another one then I solder this one

The one on the detector? What exactly was the problem?

yes, i think the capacitor leaked, because his legs had a kind of yellowish fluid embedded in them

This is because the music has to reach 0.7V Peak to peak before the forward voltage of the diode is exceeded. One simply way to improve this is to use a schottky diode in place of the normal one as this type has a lower forward voltage. Or you could use an op amp in an active rectifier circuit to reduce that to zero.

Maybe the simplest thing would be to set the A/D converter to use the internal 1.1V voltage reference so you get a bigger range, but that might not discriminate enough. That is produce a reading of 0 or 1023 with little in between.

I will try to order all the parts and assemble to see which results will be the best, but I am not sure how they will work, so let's go by parts.
I will leave examples in the annex to know if these are the things you are referring to.

the images will be named
the questions are:
schottky diode, is the one in the picture good?
op amp is the same as the one in the picture? (I will put one with 4 entries because if I go I will plan to use more than one).
active rectifier circuit, I don't know anything, the only rectifier system I made was the Full Bridge Rectifier, just like the image below.
A / D converter, does the image fit?

[Grumpy_Mike]

schottky diode, is the one in the picture good?

We don't really need a picture. There is not a lot you can get from a picture of a single component other than to read the name off it. The diode is a BAT42, that is a small signal diode, yes that will do.

op amp is the same as the one in the picture?

Again the part number will do. I use an MCP602 for general stuff like this, you get two op-amps in a chip. To use them as an audio amplifier I use this circuit:-

active rectifier circuit, I don't know anything,

If you don't know then the first thing you should do is to put the words into google, it will come up with lots of stuff. Try reading this:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precision_rectifier

A / D converter, does the image fit?

It is not even the image of an A/D converter, it is in fact a picture of a D/A converter on a breakout board. I don't even know why you are looking at this anyway. Is it because I said:-

Maybe the simplest thing would be to set the A/D converter to use the internal 1.1V voltage reference so you get a bigger range, but that might not discriminate enough.

If so the A/D converter I was referring to was the one inside the Arduino chip. Setting the reference voltage is talked about here:-
https://tronixstuff.com/2013/12/12/arduino-tutorials-chapter-22-aref-pin/
What I meant was to add the line:-

Code: [Select]

analogReference(INTERNAL);
in the setup function.

[WendelTytan]

We don't really need a picture.

kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk I let myself go because of my lack of preciousness, I forgot that images were not needed after all they don't say much anyway, just the part number, is that I was worried about where to get the pieces

MCP602

I mentioned tl074 because I had seen it in another project citing it, besides that it is the only op amp that I managed to find in the store that had all the other materials that I will buy xD

If you don't know then the first thing you should do is to put the words into google, it will come up with lots of stuff. Try reading this:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precision_rectifier

I read, it was very useful, along with your diagram above

picture of a D/A converter

kkkk after you said it was that I noticed, I laughed a lot, I confused and changed the goal xD

but the idea of changing the reference voltage, it was perfect, it fit very well, made the range increase considerably

but during the tests the conclusion is that i will really need to rectify, after all i am losing half at the exit: x

I'm going to order the op amp, the Schottky diodes, in the meantime I'm going to test on the frequency generator what the limit is on the output so I can get a sense of how much this current scheme sends in a hypothetical song and then draw the algorithm, in two ways with the internal and the default

and now focus on something else until the parts arrive, I'm going to touch the KY-038, to see if I can get something similar, any tips?



you have been a great help friend, thank you very much, i will definitely quote you in my xD report