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Topic: External wifi antenna (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic



just asking about if it's possible to attach and external antenna to this device since there is a unpopulated  U.FL-R-SM connector in j10 for an external antenna but no idea how affect the onboard antenna connected at the same time and if it has to be removed before solder the external antenna.



Hello, it seems that an external antenna for the Arduino MKR Wifi 1010 is not feasible per the component specs (although you state that connector j10 is designated for an external antenna, btw from where did you get that advice?). This board uses a NINA-W102 module from uBlox. Take a look at the datasheet for this part located at: NINA-W10 series Stand-alone Multiradio modules Datasheet

From the datasheet:
1.5.2 NINA-W102
The NINA-W102 module is equipped with a PIFA antenna. The RF signal is not connected to any
module pin.

2.5.1 Internal antenna
Both NINA-W102 and NINA-W106 have internal antennas specifically designed and optimized for the
NINA module. The NINA-W102 module is equipped with a 2.4 GHz PIFA antenna and the NINA-W106
module has a 2.4 GHz PCB trace antenna...

In both NINA-W102 and NINA-W106 designs, keep a minimum clearance of 5 mm between the
antenna and the casing. Also, keep at least 10 mm of free space around the metal antenna including
the area directly below it. If a metal enclosure is required, use NINA-W101 and an external antenna.
And then section 4.2.7 contains detailed Wi-Fi radio characteristics.  So it seems like a NINA-W101 would have allowed more flexibility.

Section 4.2.10 (Pp.25-26 for the NINA-W102) depicts the Antenna radiation patterns which might help you to optimally orient the board.

Good Luck!


Hi thanks, but I'm talking about the MKRVidor4000 so not sure it's the same for your board....


I don't think it's possible without destroying the metal antenna already on the w102 module.

NINA-W10 datasheet (see Section 7 antennas)

According to this, the antenna on the W102 is an: "SMD PIFA antenna". You could try and pry it off / attempt to de-solder it, but no guarantees there.

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