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Topic: tiny85 self power-off (Read 1 time) previous topic - next topic

larryd






Nice job.

This will help others.





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larryd

#46
Aug 19, 2020, 08:03 am Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020, 08:12 am by larryd
On the code, add a few more comments to help yourself remember 1 year from now ;).

Also, you might want to look into using State Machine coding in future sketches and how to create timers using the millis() function to remove all the delay() calls.

There are some examples of both in the tutorial forum on this web site.

Continue to have fun with this new hobby.

Did you cut the box joints with a router ?



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6v6gt

The build quality and finish are very fine.
Also, I haven't made my own PCB for decades. Is that chemically etched ?

JoshNZ

#48
Aug 19, 2020, 08:41 am Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020, 08:42 am by JoshNZ
Haha good thought but I don't plan on using the sketch again if there ever was a 2.0.

I'll have a read up on state machine coding. I'm aware of utilising millis but i figured since there's nothing to do during delays, simple was better.

The box joints are done on a jig I made for my table saw. Another trick I was delighted to see work so well. Basically a 2 part sled, the front part you clamp your work to which has a pin the width of the saw kerf as a guide, which can slide between 'fingers' on the back piece (which is stuck in the table saw channels). You make the fingers by ripping a length of square stock the width of desired tenons, and cut it into 2xWidth lengths and stand every second one up.

I'll go fish it out if you want, a photo that might be easier hah.

JoshNZ

6v - yes chemically etched, I had 30% hydrochloric acid lying around and bought a tiny bottle of hydrogen peroxide from a pharmacy in town for a few bucks. I'm looking for an excuse to try it again now haha.

The mask was printed on toner transfer paper and ironed onto the board. I exported the PCB layout into photoshop and manually added a bigger 'blob' to each device pad. The editing process per device in EagleCAD was arduous.

larryd

#50
Aug 19, 2020, 08:51 am Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020, 08:59 am by larryd
It would be nice to see the jig.

I use a router/table with a jig for making box joints but nothing over 3/8".



I like jigs (Edit: all tools ;) ).

If you have not seen the tips in this thread (700+ posts), you might find some interesting ideas.

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=445951.0



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JoshNZ

#51
Aug 19, 2020, 10:32 am Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020, 10:34 am by JoshNZ
This one will do whatever size, if you can be bothered changing the fingers. It looks more complicated than it is but the back piece is just an open backed box with rails, holding a row of square stock alternating laying/standing. Some random size stock is cut at each side to hold them all firm. And the front bit just has a pin that matches the saw kerf. Finely tuned with an angle grinder and drill... So with the work clamped to the front, the saw can only cut an area that the pin can move between.

Pieces tap together tight with a mallet, right off the saw. Obviously only does square joints but it's great for knocking drawer carcasses together. If you were doing a lot you'd run a dado blade.

I too suffer from the tool and jig related sicknesses hah. Cool thread, thanks.




larryd

Thank you.

There are also many ideas on YouTube.



Hey, that's the same table saw I have, great minds . . .





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larryd

#53
Aug 19, 2020, 07:06 pm Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020, 08:48 pm by larryd


The bit is wrong here, should be 1/4" up spiral.
This jig is for 1/4" box joints, also have one for 3/8".
Use a 1/4" brass bar to set the bit distance from the fence and the bit height is set to 4/1000" proud the wood thickness.


Some 1/4" box joint boxes.






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JoshNZ

#54
Aug 20, 2020, 02:31 am Last Edit: Aug 20, 2020, 02:32 am by JoshNZ
Yeah looks good, similar sort of principle. The relationship I've had with my router over the years is complex haha...

You'd like the last jig I built, being a wood worker. Not that it's anything to do with electronics but since we're way off track anyway...

It holds logs while you cut them into timber :smiley-lol: Seriously it's a sickness...




larryd

#55
Aug 20, 2020, 03:25 am Last Edit: Aug 20, 2020, 04:03 am by larryd
The log stays stationary and the band saw moves, nice.

I'm in love :).



Big shop, big jigs  :smiley-lol:

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JoshNZ

I'll PM you a vid it's quite a neat toy. I decided i wasn't going to buy timber forever so had this idea i'd build a mill and feed myself. After one day milling I had more timber than I'll use in several years so I don't know where I'm at now hahah might become a side gig.

JoshNZ

It looks like 2.0 will come around quicker than I thought. I want one for my own table now haha.

I wondered if someone might point me in the right direction with how you would do this properly, using interrupts as if you were doing it on a uC that was busy with other tasks. Not that this will be any different but I might as well make a learning experience of it.

I'm not asking someone to write my program but perhaps a few lines if pseudo code to point me in the right direction. What would the ISR do and what would the main loop look like?

larryd

" It looks like 2.0 will come around quicker than I thought."

;)



Interrupts are really meant for fast events.

There is quite a bit of information on interrupts kicking around.

What do you have in mind ?



Suggest you look at getting rid of delay()s in lieu of BWD, also study 'State Machine' programming.

It's tempting to use delay()s but the proper way (whatever proper means) is to 'always' write your sketches in a non blocking fashion.



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larryd

#59
Aug 23, 2020, 03:09 am Last Edit: Aug 23, 2020, 03:12 am by larryd
Here are two threads you might find interesting; there are many others too (better than) on this web site.

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=525240.0   

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=597331.0   



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