What is the best type of sensor for motorcycle ODOMETER..??

Using Arduino General Electronics
1

I am trying to make an arduino odometer for my motorcycle..

What is the best type of sensor I can use...??

hall...??
reed..??

or

any other..??

2

Nothing with moving parts - hall sensor that is just sensing magnetic field changes would be better.

How about GPS? Little more processing required, but you'll know where you are within a couple of meters at all time.

3

I've had my eye on one of these: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1966131&k=amt203

They are a bit pricey, though.

4

Wouldn't this be a limition?

vibration 1.5mm, 3 directions, 2 hours

You get more than 1.5mm movement just firing the bike up.
Your axle does not rotate does it? I would think it would awkward mounting this to something that would be spinning.

5

That doesn't even look remotely ruggedized, I wouldn't trust it to last very long at all.

I just use the reed switch sensor that came with a Sigma bicycle computer. If I were to rebuild the system from parts I would probably consider a Hall sensor, though I have had no problems at all to date with the reed switch.

6

@Joy

Can you get us a picture of your bike ? Around the wheels, specially. If I where you, I look at my situation, determine what type of sensor I will need depend on : location on the bike, to decide if dirt will impede the sensor and vibrations. ( things can got loose when in motion ). hall ? maybe - need to fix a magnet, opto - an open opto coupler - need to fix a light source ( leds or laser or light bulb ), or a small wheel direct couple with a encoder, the small wheel is "rolling" at the tire of the bike like a bycle dynamo.

Just an idea.

7

I would use that rotation encoder for something like a robot leg or arm joint or something. It doesn't look like it's for continuous rotation. I would use hall sensor on the inside of the fork and attach a small rare earth magnet (strong) on the rim of the front wheel. Then wire up an arduino digital input (and possibly 7-segment LEDs as a readout).
Nearly all bike spoke persistence of vision devices use this technique. There is one limitation to this: the Hall sensor I got has a 0.1ms response time. If your bike is running too fast and your magnet is too small, the magnet spends less than 0.1ms in front of the Hall sensor and the sensor fails to detect the magnet. Say the magnet is 0.5" wide on the rim of the wheel at say 10" radius and the bike is running at 65MPH, then we find the angular speed of the bike wheel is around 100rad/s and the 0.5" magnet is only spending around 0.4ms (if I'm right) so that is getting close to the limit of the Hall sensor.

8

I wouldn't put the magnet on the rim, but rather on the brake disk. In line with the mounting bolts should work fairly well in most cases. Then it has less of an influence on the balancing of the wheel, and you get a longer duty cycle.

with a 3" mount radius on a 19" rim with a wheel circumference of aprox 1.2 meters and a slightly more realistic magnet size of .1" (only slightly smaller than you'll probably actually use) you're looking at a max speed of about 151 kph, or 94 mph before you start hitting the .1ms barrier (if I've done my math right)

With the reed switch I've personally tested up to about 110 mph, and I've read of it bench tested to over 200mph

9

If I want to use a HALL Sensor, which sensor should I use...??

I want to use one which will act at fast conditions and with the magnet little far from the sensor...

10

I will use this Hall sensor with this magnet:

11

I'd use 2 magnets on diametrically opposite sides of the wheel or brake disc to avoid balance issues, or else have the wheel balanced after fitting the magnet. You could try using a pickup coil instead of a hall sensor, but this won't work at very low speeds.

12

I use a bike speedo reed switch on my swingarm and a Magnet epoxied to one of the sprocket mounting bolts. I didn't want to use the brake disc for fear of something sliding into the caliper but it would be hard for the magnet to go anywhere bad from where it is now.

I did experiment with a hall effect sensor and i'm sure the one you're getting is fine. I just didn't find it worked any better and running three leads including +v back to it was annoying.

There might be a picture of the pickup and magnet here http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1244069576

13

Please friends..
Help me choose the best hall effect sensor for my purpose...
So that it reacts well when the magnet passes fast by it at high speed and I may keep the magnet little far..

The hall sensors which i can find at stores at my place are

Hall Effect Sensor AH34

US1881

14

@Joy

Here the site for the datasheet ...AH-34 datasheet & application notes - Datasheet Archive Opps, a different type ...

I am trying to find that sensor. Can you supply a picture ? I need to see a part number on that part.

Make you read the datasheet, connect properly, and a magnet attach to the wheel.

15

I found the one I used at digikey http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=ohn3019u&x=0&y=0

I don't think you have to worry about speed.

16

I can't find a datasheet for the AH34, although I found one for the AH342, which may be related.

The US1881 looks suitable to me, however it needs to see a north pole to switch one way and then a south pole to switch the other way. So you would need to use 2 magnets on the wheel, opposite ways round, so that in one rotation the sensor sees both a north pole and a south pole.

17

dc42:
I can't find a datasheet for the AH34, although I found one for the AH342, which may be related.

The US1881 looks suitable to me, however it needs to see a north pole to switch one way and then a south pole to switch the other way. So you would need to use 2 magnets on the wheel, opposite ways round, so that in one rotation the sensor sees both a north pole and a south pole.

I am also thinking that the US1881 is much better...The datasheet of US1881 says that it is high magnetic sensitivity, so I thing that i can keep the magnet little far too from the sensor..
I bought one AH34 which needs a magnet to be at least half a cm close to it..

I can get these sensors too..

Datasheet

Datasheet

http://www.sunrom.com/sensors/current/hall-effect-sensor

Datasheet
http://www.sunrom.com/files/WSH315.pdf

18

Another thing is what is going to be much better for whatever sensor I am using...

Pick one pulse every wheel rotation (using one magnet on the wheel)

OR

Pick two pulse every rotation, that is one pulse every half rotation of the wheel..(using 2 magnets)

Which is going to be much better..?

19

If you use the US1881 then you will need two magnets anyway (one N and one S towards sensor) but still only get one pulse per revolution.

Two magnets on opposite sides of the wheel will help to avoid unbalancing it. One pulse per rev is all you need, you're only measuring km so you don't need the extra resolution that two pulses would give.

20

dc42:
If you use the US1881 then you will need two magnets anyway (one N and one S towards sensor) but still only get one pulse per revolution.

Two magnets on opposite sides of the wheel will help to avoid unbalancing it. One pulse per rev is all you need, you're only measuring km so you don't need the extra resolution that two pulses would give.

I want to calculate the 1/10 also for the decimal that is the reason i was asking..
I had open a thread about this few days back..
http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,72801.0.html

I have access to few of these HALL SENSORS

I can get these sensors too..

Datasheet

Datasheet

http://www.sunrom.com/sensors/current/hall-effect-sensor

Datasheet
http://www.sunrom.com/files/WSH315.pdf

Please check if there is anything as good as US1881, I dont want the latch effect.. :frowning:
By the way , is there any advantage of that latch effect.