Just got my first Arduino yesterday so I am exceptionally new at all of this. I set up my LCD screen according to a few different builds so far all with the same result. First I went with the build that came with the kit I got. the pin usage was weird so I looked others up online. I got to the tutorial here :
Which seemed to work well until I ran it. I still get no text the images are both with the sketch running with contrast adjusted and non adjusted.
I am getting one and 1/3 ish lines displaying and no text.
The only variable I am aware that I have is it calls for a 10k pot and mine is a 50k, I can still see adjustment in the contrast so I assume that isn't the problem.
The sketch I am using is a copy/paste from that tutorial I didn't make any edits.
Photos of the build below any help is appreciated thank you in advance.
Where are the 'images' and 'photos' that you are referring to?
Let me rephrase that. How did you create or attach your images?
They do not appear at all when I use Firefox or Internet Explorer.
When I use Chrome I get some generic icons that do not act like actual links. Nothing happens when I left click on them but I can right click and then open them in a new tab.
well I meant that prior to reseting the sketch the display behaved more predicatbly than before. ( all the nies had contrast, the backlight actually lit up when plugged in etc. Then when I actually ran the sketch and waited for the "hello world" it did the same as all the other builds. Though I am noticing that most of the sketches have a "begin.serial(9600)" line in setup that the sketch I used does not have. And I read something about changing the baud(?) on the serial plotter.
So since my last post I have rewired the screen, and changed a few things in the code. Nothing I have done has changed the visible outcome at all. I added in a "Serial.begin(9600);" line which the only change I have noted is that once I upload the sketch with that in it I can no longer use the serial plotter window. Then I changed the baud in the serial plotter window to 115200 (I saw it in one of the tutorials using an LCD so I figured why not). Also no visible change after that. Then I changed the "lcd.print("hello world!");" to "Serial.print("hello world!");" . Again no change.
The only thing I can find that I can influence is on the display with contrast high I can see one row of digits and a third of the next row when I upload a sketch. But after I upload if I pull the 5V pin and plug it back in I get the full two rows, until I reload the sketch.
That is about all the information I can figure out from what I am seeing. If you want any specific pictures to see something feel free to ask. I am stumped.
I got it working today for a short while. Long enough to get a ultrasonic sensor hooked up and turned into a readout. I was having an issue with that crashing after running for a few minutes. (I think I was filling the memory with measurements.)
Then as I was starting to get parts together to turn it into a laser turret it went back to the same as the images above.
Before it started working we did rewire the whole thing. Though it did not work immediately after that. When it stopped working I had just plugged the laser directly into power (not touching anything inline with the rest of it) and it crashed (output got all random) when I reloaded it was back to before.
So being that I have no idea what triggered it to work or stop working I don't have much of a point to work from.
I tried to go buy a new lcd to see if that is the issue but I can't find one at any local stores.
Are you using a breadboard and (Chinese) jumper leads?
Take your set of jumper leads and jump one from the first column on the breadboard to the last column (or as near as it will reach). Take the next and jump from that last column to (as near to) next to the first column, then another from that column to a free column at the other end and repeat until you have a chain back and forth of all the leads. Then connect that chain in series with a LED and resistor to the 5 V and ground to see if all make a connection. If they do, then wiggle the leads to see if one is intermittent.
If there is no connection at all, then figure out the halfway point in the chain and link each half in turn with the LED, dismantle whichever half of the chain makes a good connection and continue breaking up the remainder until you identify the faulty lead or leads.
I have had two sorts of fault. One is where the lead is not connecting to the (crimp) pin, not fixable. The other is where lacquer or plastic from the moulding has formed a film over the pin and can be flaked off.
Would going through the leads with a multimeter be as effective at ruling them out at least? I feel like I could do that more quickly then just be left to wonder about the bread board. But yes it's a kit from China. Most parts seem pretty good but the leads are definitely cheap. I was also entertaining the idea that it might be the screen but I can't find a local store that sells them or any device to steal one from.
As effective most likely, but I suspect what I suggested is quicker.
When using a multimeter, you need to clip the test leads to the pins and shake them to check for intermittent connections while you separately look at the meter (and meters take a few moments to respond fully). If the connection you are holding in your hand is not secure, you have to concentrate to make sure whether it is the way you are holding it or the lead is actually faulty.
I figure the repetitive task of plugging pins into a breadboard is actually easier and you can then run your hand over the whole bunch to see if the LED flickers. And after all, it is connecting them to the breadboard that you actually want to check.
