All, Thanks, first off.
TomGeorge: Thanks! I used one of those and could use another so if I lose first. I admonished mfr of making a common anode. Thats dumb. But. I looked at hookup. They transistorized the drive, so to isolate each, a, and reduce load, it also, be definition, switched polarity. No work on them. Only discussion today. As far as resistor, my ignorance is factor. I felt since each LED had onboard R's I wouldn't get any tug-o-war, current wise. That could even screw up the MCU. I felt I was safe when I considered adding diodes in line, then slapped myself in forehead! I'm waiting on a screw-terminal, even though it's the kind that shoves out wires as you screw in. Actually, broke as I am, I'd love to show you the soldering tip I'm using, the whole setup. Not is it - or > but it has gone to ) and I have little room to sand more off, which isn't recommended anyhow.
I need a good throw-away uWave oven. It's fun making plasma, but it'll burn out the unit quick.
I'm not working, possibly on account of my ADD... how someone learns my diagnosis from one post should perhaps consider psychiatry practice. Anyhow, I hope I can get off post-probation as I average a lot more than 0.2 per minute on forums.
I soldered the headers on and then soldered leads onto headers, 24ga stranded.... ugh... Then I ran the leads, 1-2" each, to a paperboard card with slots in it. I tucked each lead into slots, then glued them in. Poor mans breakout board. I was wondering how one could easily make "cubical walls" to prevent shorts. Oh well. Too late. It shorted - toast.
I got one good working mini-project out of my first three. A capacitive panel that works through glass. Ugly prototype made out of "tin foil" spray-glued to paper with printed templates with a signal lead meticulously soldered onto back, running through acetate, along with a grounded lead spun around it. On the back side of acetate is a ground grid that borders the buttons. I duct taped it (black duck tape, thanks) to a small 4-5mm thick sheet of plain glass. I tried to add a active rejection region but the 1188 wouldn't calibrate it. I wanted to use it as a thermostat control, but with my wife having MS difficulties, a 5-way switch is clear way to go. Much wrist movement over a 5" region of buttons, even if they are 0 pressure.
My next projects would be to:
A) verify a magnet lock plate is fully alligned and tight (occluded). I got help here on that.
b) read status of 15 or so reed switches
c) relay a disarm or change profile signal from first floor to 2nd floor in blueIris. It's just the transmission from floors... locally it's easy with com port... darn phone wires unused but not working..
If I'm batting, this is good numbers? Right?