.96 OLEDs

I have recently starting playing with the .96" (blue) OLED display purchased on ebay (from 2 different vendors) The first one never worked, even though when using the I2C address scanner it reported back. The display stayed dark using Adafruit's example as well as the U8g2 example. The second one worked right off the go; but only for a couple days, using the Adafruit example, then went dark. There were no instructions other than setting up the 4 wire connections ( Battery, Grd, SCL, SDA) with either, but the listing stated that no pull ups were required. I didn't use them, and as stated the second one worked briefly. I let it run continuously for several days, with an occasional reset needed due to unidentified reasons, both on 3.3v and 5v on a pro-mini. This morning I find the second one dark. Using my cheap Hantek scope, I can see traffic on the I2C bus, so it appears to me that something has failed on the display. Has anyone had this experience? Are these just cheap displays, prone to failure? And most importantly is there a fix? Throwing $3-$4 away at a time can add up quickly.

(deleted)

As stated the first one started and remained dark, although it did respond to an address id check using the sketch to do so. The second one displayed for 2 days, then went dark. I'm not sure what you mean by "linked" Did they report an address back? Yes. Both had an address of 0x3C which was corrected in the Adafruit sketch from 0x3D.

I'm not sure what you mean by "linked"

Not "linked", a link - a URL.

AWOL: Not "linked", a link - a URL.

Sorry, I don't understand the question.

flagtrax: Sorry, I don't understand the question.

There isn't a question. Post the URL.

notgwb: Can you link both displays you've purchased? Also, did your displays illuminate any when plugged into the board (but w/ no code running) or were they dark until you ran code?

Isn't that a question? And no neither illuminated prior to running code, then only the second one.

You purchased the devices from some ebay vendors. They would like links to the sites (the web addresses of the sites) where you purchased the devices so they can determine more information about those devices.

Don

floresta: You purchased the devices from some ebay vendors. They would like links to the sites (the web addresses of the sites) where you purchased the devices so they can determine more information about those devices.

Don

Ah, thank you for that clarification Don. I guess I'm "old(er) school than I thought, I didn't get that jargon (aka: forum speak?) Anyway I'm not sure what kind of link I could offer other than Ebay. There are hundreds of vendors who (I believe) use more than one account ID. As such there are hundreds of vendors selling these .96" OLED displays, both in a "buy it now" or "auction" format. I happened to bid on these 2 because they were low in the bid, and won them. I could look back at Ebay and get a vendor number but I'm not sure that would help. I can say that both were labeled as "generic". In the past I've had pretty good luck dealing with items that are defective with refunds, or replacements, although sometimes Ebay intervention is needed. The vast majority of items purchased (arduino uno, pro's, ESP 8266's, displays, keypads) have all been good. But these I'm skeptical of since the first one didn't illuminate at all, and the second quit after 2 days of continuous power up. Again thanks for any insight

Provide a good picture of both sides of each device and that will probably help.

Note that some of these devices have the GND and VCC displays reversed from others.

Don

Thanks Don, that I am aware of , The first unit I played with responded to the I2C scanner and reported an address, indicating that Vcc & Grd were properly connected. When I ran either sketch (after correcting the address and constructors) the display remained blank. At that point I checked with a scope and did see clock and data on the SCL & SDA lines. I labeled that one DOA.

The second one worked immediately, with no pullups, ran at 5V & 3.3V (as the listing stated it could) using a pro mini. When I checked it this am the display was dark, but the sketch appeared to still be running (I still saw clock and data on the proper pins.

I did neglect to give better information on the modules. They are .096" 1306ssd, blue pixeled, with only 4 pins VCC, GRD, SCL, & SDA. Seemed like a pretty simple module to use which is why I chose it for the project I’m working on. Here is a link to an example of its use.

That is not exactly the unit I’m using, mine has no addressing option or regulator on the back, (stock photos attached) and I tried it with an Uno as well. Same results…

oled back.PNG

oled front.PNG

flagtrax: They are .096" 1306ssd, blue pixeled, with only 4 pins VCC, GRD, SCL, & SDA.

They are probably 0.96" SSD1306 displays with VCC, GND, SCL and SDA connections.

I have had some of these fail, quite quickly, I guess thats the risk you take buying 'cheap' on eBay .

srnet: They are probably 0.96" SSD1306 displays with VCC, GND, SCL and SDA connections.

I have had some of these fail, quite quickly, I guess thats the risk you take buying 'cheap' on eBay .

Thanks for the response srnet. Agreed, they are as you discribe. At least I'm not the only one who admits to being "taken" LOL. So since most of these items (or their components) are made in China are we doomed to deal with constant failure?

flagtrax: So since most of these items (or their components) are made in China are we doomed to deal with constant failure?

Of course not.

Just buy them local so at least you can send them back (at reasonable cost) if they fail.

You would then expect a trusted local supplier would source them such that they did not have to constanly replace faulty product.

Well indeed that sounds logical, IF one had a "local supplier, shoot, one can't even buy common components (resistors, caps, transistors on and on) the majority of the USA. Most of the electronic suppliers are mail order there are no "brick & mortar" stores any more. Add to that I'm in a rural area, if it can't be found at Walmart or Home Depot, it doesn't exist...now if I'd want a load of manure it can be easily had.

You're not in a truly rural area if you have a Home Depot nearby. Trust me, I know.

Don

I am surprised that anyone would expect to have a retail component shop in their local town.

Mail Order has always worked very well. If you are prepared to wait for 10-40 days, Chinese Mail Order are cheaper than local Mail Order companies.

I have always suspected that some Chinese items are Quality Control failures.
They might work ok for years. Or fail within weeks.

You either buy from a respected company like Adafruit or you buy “cheap” from Ebay / AliExpress.
If something goes wrong, Adafruit will provide service.
If you choose the latter, buy spare items. It will still be cheaper than Adafruit.

David.

floresta:
You’re not in a truly rural area if you have a Home Depot nearby. Trust me, I know.

Don

No Don you don’t know. The Home Depot is in a town 22 miles away. My town doesn’t even have a traffic light. I live among farms. You know not of what you speak and yet you feel the need to debate with me. Why would anyone be so presumptuous as to think they know other’s situations. And I KNOW that there are no local electronic component stores within a 75 mile radius(and most likely further)…“TRUST ME”

Look into an Amazon Prime account. Next day to 2-3 day delivery depending how far you from a distribution center. Same for ordering from Digikey or Mouser, tho a little pricier - but you know you are getting good parts.

CrossRoads: Look into an Amazon Prime account. Next day to 2-3 day delivery depending how far you from a distribution center. Same for ordering from Digikey or Mouser, tho a little pricier - but you know you are getting good parts.

Thanks for that suggestion CrossRoads, I dumped them when 2 day shipping became 6-7 days, and their vendors proved to be no better than ebay. At $119 (prime subscription), I'll pass. I've tried as many as I've heard of with varying results. When I look at Adafruits prices at 3X others (or more) then add in S&H charges it sometimes becomes 4-5x ebay prices (most ship free). When experimenting, I usually go for lowest cost first (knowing I might fry something as in my TTL days when and/or gates, and even 8080 cpu's were cheap LOL). After that I look for something more reliable. But I get your point ;)