Use this at your own risk, you could smoke your ATmega chip and/or your parallel port.
This product is meant for educational purposes only. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Postage will be paid by addressee. Subject to CARB approval. This is not an offer to sell securities. Apply only to affected area. May be too intense for some viewers. Do not stamp. Not rated by the Motion Picture Association of America. Call for nutritional information. Use other side for additional listings. Printed on recycled paper. For recreational use only. Do not disturb. Prize not redeemable for cash value. If condition persists, consult your physician. No user-serviceable parts inside. Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
OK, that's out of the way: I built a vaguely similar one (it used the 74244 and the parallel port).
it omitted R1 - R6, R13 - R18, C2 - C4.
for R7 - R12, R21, R22, R23, I would use the next higher value I had available.
for Q1, substitute any NPN (watch for reversed cases).
R19 and R20 appear to be weak pullups? I would use anything above 50k, I would probably try anything over 5k if that was all I had.
C1 looks like your basic "digital transient filter" cap, omit if you feel lucky, use anything you have if it is flakey without it.
Don't forget that resistors can be combined: two 1k resistors in series (one after the other) makes a 2k resistor. two 1k resistors in parallel makes a 500ohm resistor. Google for "parallel resistor calculator" ("series resistor calculator" is just addition).
desolder resistors off of any old junk lying around. google "resistor color codes" for information, or even a calculator that will tell you which colors to look for.
Good luck!
-j