accelerometer/gyro sensor connection guidance

i have a mpu 6050 sensor & i am using arduino as here: http://www.robosoftsystems.co.in/roboshop/index.php/arduino/arduino-duemilanove-dip.html
i had connected a mpu 6050 sensor as shown here: http://robot-kit.ru/images/product_images/info_images/GY521-MPU6050.png this is just the way i have connected to my arduino duemilanove board (as image above).
I programmed a lot many times using this sensor (mpu 6050) but didnot give me any problem. But one day after plugging board it gave message could not find the hardware & when enquired got to know that FTDI chip it was getting very hot so probably i had to get a new one. I did get a new one same board (arduino duemilanove). But when i posted question in the forum about this people told me that the mpu sensor took a lot of current from the 3.3v pin which comes from FTDI chip. But many of them on web i have seen have no problem when they have used this same sensors directly plugging it to their boards & nor did they use any external supply to the sensor then, why is this problem with my borad?
Can i plug in the same way my sensor & hope there will be no more problem again. :disappointed_relieved:

Yes, connect it like that.
The current required by the MPU-6050 is very little.

Do you have a MPU-6050 as in the link ? with a voltage regulator ?
Then you can use the Arduino 5V to module Vcc.

Peter_n:
Do you have a MPU-6050 as in the link ?

yes i do have the same

with a voltage regulator ?

i did not get your point..

Then you can use the Arduino 5V to module Vcc.

ya i did use the same way powering with 5v of arduino.

On that sensor board is the MPU-6050, it is the black square component with many pins.
There is another black component with three pins. That is the voltage regulator, it makes 3.3V for the MPU-6050. The VCC pin is the input for that voltage regulator. So you can use the Arduino 5V pin to the VCC of the sensor board, and the MPU-6050 runs at 3.3V.

Peter_n:
On that sensor board is the MPU-6050, it is the black square component with many pins.
There is another black component with three pins. That is the voltage regulator, it makes 3.3V for the MPU-6050. The VCC pin is the input for that voltage regulator. So you can use the Arduino 5V pin to the VCC of the sensor board, and the MPU-6050 runs at 3.3V.

ya you are right that another black colour ic named s2wk (in very small letters) & that is 3.3v regulator right.. i got it..
But as per the manufacturers the voltage range is around 2**.95v to 3.**65v will it be safe inspite they are mentioning not use more than 3.65v?
then is burning of FTDI ic (from my previous arduino duemelnove) just a bad luck ? :~

The input range for the sensor module could be 3.4 to 12V to Vcc, and the MPU-6050 will get a nice 3.3V.

On the Arduino board, the FTDI getting too hot, might be some static electricity from the usb connector, or perhaps when the 3.3V of the Arduino board is shortcut to ground.

Boards get broken with 12V. With a breadboard and motors, and wires all over the place, and a 12V wire touching the Arduino board.
I do not know what happened to your board, it might be just bad luck.

Have a look at this: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=272355.0
The Windows driver could be destroying the FTDI chip ? This is something serious !

but the new one didnot give me any problem.
i am afraid i may damage it again so then, what can i do?

I really don’t know.
I have a FTDI usb-serial converter, and I connected it to Windows 10 Preview. It gets a little warm, but it keeps working. Windows uses a driver of august 2014.
With a magnifier I still can not tell if my FTDI chip is real or fake.
http://zeptobars.ru/en/read/FTDI-FT232RL-real-vs-fake-supereal

then, may be i will have to use linux so that i may not burn my ic

the url what u gave

here he is mentioning that for win 64 bit not working fine whereas for win 32bit working fine.
i have win 7 32 bit.

I think both 64 and 32 bit is a problem for counterfeits. Windows didn't use the new driver when I connected my FTDI, only after I selected 'update' for that driver.

then,... i won't connect my arduino .. :~ :~ i will wait till this problem is solved

The problem is solved when you use the real FTDI and no longer the counterfeits.

Peter_n:
The problem is solved when you use the real FTDI and no longer the counterfeits.

i saw this url :FTDI FT232RL: real vs fake : ZeptoBars
as u gave.
the chip name is:
FTDI
1232-C
GO020361
FT232RL
is this fake or real? as this is not mentioned in that url..

so any other ic number other than what is mentioned real in that url are fake?
then, even my ic is fake?

I think both the original and the counterfeits can have different serial numbers.
I have one that I'm still not sure about, but I think it is fake.

then isn't there any site or page which details all the real numbers that should be on ftdi so as to atleast confirm whether fake or genuine?

i already contacted the manufacturer he assured he that chip is real but, many of my friends chip also had the same problem from same manufacturer.
Any ways i got a new board & programmed it a few times didnot give me any problem.
So now i want to interface motors to my board there should be nothing wrong in my part while doing connection. So just want to verify it with you.
so here is how i will be doing the connections : http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7QojImEYgks/UrvU7tak_8I/AAAAAAAAAvU/N9JdhjddXMw/s1600/motors-to-l293dne-to-arduino.png
now here i want to modify one thing that is : pin 1, 9, 16 are together given to only one pin of 5V to arduino. This can actually damage the 5v pin right?..
And i want to supply my arduino board externally so if i am powering though the adapter (see the board image here : http://www.robosoftsystems.co.in/roboshop/index.php/arduino/arduino-duemilanove-dip.html ) as u can see in the image adapter connection made available. But when i want to use this way then while programing i should not give external supply right?
And last point say if i want to power to my board with one supply & motor's with other then, i should short their grounds. Other than this do u find any mistakes??

I was not notified of your new post, but I did receive your PM.

The L293 is only for small toy motors at about 12V.
Connecting the Arduino 5V pin to those 3 pins of the L293 is no problem. That is how it is ment to be. The battery can be 9V or 12V.

When you use an external power adapter (or wall wart, or power supply, or 12V battery) and connect that to the Arduino to the barrel jack, you can also connect the usb cable. You don't have to disconnect something.

The GND of the Arduino is of course connected to the GND of the power supply for the motors.

The Arduino can get damaged when it gets 12V to its pins. For example when the L293 is upside-down or so. To prevent that, check the wiring, and you could start with 5V for the motors.