Adafruit ultimate GPS breakout, seems to be marked wrong

The VIN hole marker looks to me like it is an output pin. Is it just mis painted ?

hextejas:
The VIN hole marker looks to me like it is an output pin. Is it just mis painted ?

Adafruit.com 746

TX is surely an output pin and its marker is the opposite to that of VIN so what are you basing your statement on ?

UKHeliBob:

TX is surely an output pin and its marker is the opposite to that of VIN so what are you basing your statement on ?

Hmmm, shows what I know, which is nothing. No wonder I have been destroying so many boards. This is turning out to be
an expensive hobby.
I think that my mistake was in remembering the same markings on another board and I think it meant Voltage In.
Thank you UK

I think that my mistake was in remembering the same markings on another board and I think it meant Voltage In.

On this board VIN certainly looks like it is Voltage In but check the pinout on the Adafruit site

VIN is a voltage in pin and I think that I have it hooked to a battery.
I took this statement seriously “”. It’s important to connect to a clean and quiet power supply."

Which prompts a question.
Are the voltages supplied by the Feather Huzzah , 3v and 5v I think, clean and quiet, and would I need to worry that I might be overloading it ?

Thanks a tonne.

Are the voltages supplied by the Feather Huzzah , 3v and 5v I think, clean and quiet, and would I need to worry that I might be overloading it ?

They are probably "quiet and clean" until you start putting any load on the output pins, especially if they are turning a load on and off rapidly, in which case the voltage may drop and they may get noisy. An oscilloscope would let you see how clean they are.

As to output power, you are right to be worried. How much current are you drawing from them ?

UKHeliBob:
As to output power, you are right to be worried. How much current are you drawing from them ?

I don't really know. Hence my use of the battery. I am guessing that battery power is probably pretty clean and quite adequate.
I was really trying to avoid calculating load for the different devices. I am afraid that it might be beyond my skill level. I think that I have 2 devices. And I guess I could spec it at their max load or try and guess what the load might be during operation.
I really, really, didn't want to get too far into EE type stuff. My forte is programmin and this stuff wears me out.
I have a tonne of respect to folks like you .

Hi,
If you read the instructions at Adafruit, the show you how to connect the module;

Tom.... :slight_smile:

Oh my !
I have it so wrong.!
To me it made perfect sense that RX would connect to TX, and vice versa.
No wonder the board was getting so hot. I got quite a nice burn

Hi,
Yes you are right, TX to RX, and RX to TX, that diagram has that bit wrong.
And it is an image from Adafruit!!!!!!!

Tom... :slight_smile:

To me it made perfect sense that RX would connect to TX, and vice versa.

That makes sense to me too and would be the normal way to connect serial devices

Arggggg, who to trust ???

Along those lines, and further to how this beast is powered, this picture shows the interior of the controller box.
It has a Feather Huzzah, and I cant see how it is powered.

Looks like there's a LiPo battery feeding two regulated power supplies that are configured for 3.3 and 6V. I think they're probably piggybacked to get the combined voltage - put a volt meter on there to be sure. The Feather gets its power from the top (3.3V) one.

wildbill:
Looks like there's a LiPo battery feeding two regulated power supplies that are configured for 3.3 and 6V. I think they're probably piggybacked to get the combined voltage - put a volt meter on there to be sure. The Feather gets its power from the top (3.3V) one.

Are you referring to the red wire or the orange. If the orange, I cannot see where it goes.
If the red, from my reading of the pinout, it is an output pin.

GND - this is the common ground for all power and logic
BAT - this is the positive voltage to/from the JST 
      jack for the optional Lipoly battery
USB - this is the positive voltage to/from the micro USB 
       jack if connected
EN - this is the 3.3V regulator's enable pin. It's pulled up, 
      so connect to ground to disable the 3.3V regulator
3V - this is the output from the 3.3V regulator, it can 
       supply 500mA peak  (try to keep your current draw 
       under 250mA so you have plenty for the ESP8266's 
       power requirements!)

I'm referring to the red wire. That's the output of the feather's regulated on board supply, but it looks to me as though the black wire on the other side of the board is pulling the regulator enable pin to ground, thus disabling it so it needs 3V3 from somewhere else.