Yes, i know that professionals had done this difference. For me is number of layers and cost no problem. I just does this for fun and personal use.
I need to make an Jumper that makes it possible to use 5V in schematic posted under. How can i do that?
If i power with 5V IN i can't get 5V trough the 7805 regulators and the rest of the board. I need to send 5V outside the regulators to Attiny, Wemos D1 Mini and Logic Shifter. And of course to the VCC OUTPUT.
Or why not?
Lots of ways to make traces thicker.
Layer copper ribbons
Use copper wire
20-30mm will be a stretch though. I wouldn't call ribbons or wire traces anymore; I'd consider that cheating! Electroplating (not electrolysis of course!) will get you far, but probably not that far. Of course, in theory, nothing would stop you from doing so. But show me how it'd work in the real world!
But how about an easy way out - keep the traces bare copper and tin them with a soldering iron. That will build up some thickness. Not 20-30 mm of course.
a MASSIVE stretch to be sure
search for PCB BUSS BAR.
For the American viewer I may need to add that 20 to 30 mm is about a quarter inch either side of an inch thick!
That would certainly require rather special manufacturing processes.
I have try to added two jumper pins. Will this wiring work?
My goal is to prevent the 5V to the regulators regards to the voltage drop trough them that will make my circuit not work.
Yes and no. It will put +5V onto the Vcc to the led strings when the 5V connection is used. It also brings the risk of blowing up multiple components if you forget to change the jumper before applying 12V. I wouldn't do it like this, to be honest. Much safer to make a separate +5V input with a Schottky diode in series with it just like how the 5V USB input on many Arduino boards use.
Okay, så my wiring is correct, but it's adviced to add som safety?
I just have 40001, 40007 and 5404 diodes. Is it ok to use one of theese?
And how and where would you placed the diode?
And well beyond what we would consider ever doing.
Total area of a trace is what matters .
It is rather easy to double the thickness and half the width.
But there are options the have been used in commercial products. Soldering a wire over the trace.
I worked on a 30 amp 12v DC motor controller for a fishing ship trawling line. #12 wire soldered over the trace.
I have also seen plotters with stepper motors that had buss bars.
Looking at the schematic, it seems that you have both an ESP8266 and an ATTINY85
The ESP8266 is using only a few pins.
And they are both powered all the time.
It seems that you can do all you want with the un-used pins on the ESP8266 and level shifter.
No i can't. Wemos d1 mini is flashed with Wled software and cant't be coded (the easy way).
My advice would be to add safety by changing the circuit. Your wiring is technically correct, but I'd never do it this way or recommend others to do it like this. I think it's an accident waiting to happen that will destroy both the attiny and most likely also the wemos.
Any of these would work but I'd prefer a Schottkey.
Note that its 4001 & 4007. I assume 1n400x; note theres also e.g. 1uf4007. Always be specific unless you know 100% that no confusion is possible.
Anode to the external 5V supply, cathode to your circuit. Like I said, look at the schematic of e.g. an arduino nano.
But how can i diode prevent me to send 12V inn to the circuit by accident?
That's not what it's for. Like I said, I wouldn't wire this the way you proposed in your schematic.
Ok, i will try to draw a new schematic from scratch. But i'm little confused when it comes to the switch part.
If i feed the board with 12V i will also get 12V to the 5V line. I want the 12V line to go trough the regulators, but not the 5V line. I can't find the best way to do that...
Can someone give me some hint to how i can separate this two lines through the Switch?
Maybe just use an jumper for the switch?
That is what i got so far. It's not 100% bulletproof, but i think good enough for me and my usage.
I just liked the idea after i saw this board:
This is an LED controller board, that have jumpers that can switch between 5V and 12V. But i do not find schematics for this board.
If 12V or 5V or any voltage can be connected, and the stripout is direct through it.
That is, if you need a stabilized 5V power supply for only logic components such as uC.
You can also use the SEPIC for supplying 5V to uC.
It allows low and high voltage inputs, and outputs a regulated 5V.
For example, it provides a 5V output that accepts inputs 3V to 30V.
This eliminates the need to jumpers and not separated power input connectors.
If you search for "XL6019" or "XL6009" on ebay, you can buy the ones that are configured in that way.
Be sure to choose one that has two inductors, the module at single inductor is just a boost only converter.